28 Brave OSO Project
#161
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From: Mansfield, TX
Got the two 454 long blocks sold this weekend. Took the valve covers off the "good" engine to find a roller rocker had fallen off. Its a small wonder I even made it home on that engine.
Couln't thank Matt enough for helping me tow the boat to the fiberglass shop. They should have the fiberglass fixed within a week and then I can get started on the paint.
Pic of the running 454 on the way to the buyer before we took it apart. 502's will probobly look about the same, minus the dirt.
Couln't thank Matt enough for helping me tow the boat to the fiberglass shop. They should have the fiberglass fixed within a week and then I can get started on the paint.
Pic of the running 454 on the way to the buyer before we took it apart. 502's will probobly look about the same, minus the dirt.
#162
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From: Mansfield, TX
I'm also looking for a mercruiser combination sea pump/fuel pump assembly. This would have come off a carbed 502, including a 500HP. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Parts can be new or used. I just need to find a pair.
#165
It doesn’t help you at this point but on my newer boats I remedied this issue by going through the bulkhead on the forward side and terminating at the transom on a downward 45 degree angle therefore never actually meeting the transom except at the very bottom. This eliminated that cracking and improved bilge water flow.
Andy, again, if I can ever help just give me a call. 786-586-0450
#166
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From: Mansfield, TX
I’m just getting caught up on things. Although I have never seen this happen before, the "cracks" in these photos are not cracks. The bonding tape (fiberglass cut into strips and used to bond hull to deck) looks like it has delaminated in these areas. Simple fix; grind back the delaminated area and re-glass. The areas under the transom assembly's and at the bulkhead are maybe not as easy to fix because of the tight corners you will have to work in. A die grinder with a not too aggressive carbide bit will help. Although not structural in nature as you would think of a stringer or bulkhead, these rails serve as a stiffener for the largely unreinforced panel under each engine and will move (normal) as evidenced by the cracks at the transom and bulkhead ends of this rail. Again, grind these areas well and lay a fair amount of glass including woven being careful not to pool the resin or make the patch too wet.
It doesn’t help you at this point but on my newer boats I remedied this issue by going through the bulkhead on the forward side and terminating at the transom on a downward 45 degree angle therefore never actually meeting the transom except at the very bottom. This eliminated that cracking and improved bilge water flow.
Andy, again, if I can ever help just give me a call. 786-586-0450
It doesn’t help you at this point but on my newer boats I remedied this issue by going through the bulkhead on the forward side and terminating at the transom on a downward 45 degree angle therefore never actually meeting the transom except at the very bottom. This eliminated that cracking and improved bilge water flow.
Andy, again, if I can ever help just give me a call. 786-586-0450
#168
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From: Mansfield, TX
Bilge pump mounts. The gelcoat was cracking around the square wood that was glassed in for the bilge pumps. Really wasn't as bad as the repairs look.
Last edited by TexomaPowerboater; 03-08-2009 at 09:13 PM.



