electrical problem
#1
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electrical problem
I have a 272 with a 496 ho, when I put it away for the winter everything worked fine. I just got it out for the summer and the hatch will not go up the engine lights will not come on, the assisory switches will not work, But if I put a battery pack on the remote termanels everything works. No matter where I put the battery selecter switch the hatch asssisory switches engine lights cirt lights , horn nothing works. the batteries are full charged, the motor turns over, I have pushed the 20 and 50 amp reset, checked all fuses they are ok. What could be wrong.
#2
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Still sounds like a dead battery to me. Have you tried swapping in a known good battery? Can't imagine what else it would be. Where do the remote terminals tie in? Maybe its a bad battery switch?
#3
Its gonna be a 12v+ supply wire under the dash i'm betting got loose or dissconnected....are your acc switches lighted? do they light up at all when switched? If you can look under the switch panel and get a volt meter, test the 12v wire feeding it for juice...if thats OK then its the ground side at fault.
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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#4
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Its gonna be a 12v+ supply wire under the dash i'm betting got loose or dissconnected....are your acc switches lighted? do they light up at all when switched? If you can look under the switch panel and get a volt meter, test the 12v wire feeding it for juice...if thats OK then its the ground side at fault.
#5
That would depend on how those terminals are wired into the boat....most that ive seen go either to the battery or to the selector switch on the output side.....a better bet would be to try and run a temp wire from the battery to the dash switches and see if they work thatway...then that would verfiy a good ground too.......or if you dont want to do that or dont want to unscrew the dash you can try and backfeed into the dash with a cigarette lighter adapter and see if that will turn the lights on or any acc's....dont try to raise the hatch unless you have someone lifting it at the same time...most cig lighters dont have big enough gauge wire to handle the current for a hatch.....
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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#6
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What is the battery voltage?
If its less than 12.3 volts, the batteries are toast. They may show voltage on the meter, but once you try and pull current that voltage will drop to nothing.
Put a meter on while operating a load, and you'll see.
Always use a battery tender.
If its less than 12.3 volts, the batteries are toast. They may show voltage on the meter, but once you try and pull current that voltage will drop to nothing.
Put a meter on while operating a load, and you'll see.
Always use a battery tender.
#7
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the batteries are fine they turn the motor with ease, the switches are lit and do light when a booster is attached to the factory installed jumper term. Iam thinking I have a bad ground or the selector took a s$$t. I also tested for power at both sides of the fuses under dash and there is power there, but with jumper removed and battery switch on both the motor will start but I loose some dash comp.???????????????????
#8
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Ahh.... you left that part out about the motor cranking over... that changes things.
When you tested the fuses, what are you using for ground? I'm thinking it might be a ground problem.
I would guess those remote terminals are wired to the load side of the selector switch, and thus you give everything a good power source (+ and ground) no matter what the switch position.
If the switch was bad, you wouldn't be able to crank the engine. I would check all of the ground connections. Take them apart, wire brush, and re-assemble. The motor has a direct ground, and that would make it crank while nothing else works.
If that doesn't work, you can bypass the selector switch by hooking one battery terminal up to the load side and seeing if everything works.
When you tested the fuses, what are you using for ground? I'm thinking it might be a ground problem.
I would guess those remote terminals are wired to the load side of the selector switch, and thus you give everything a good power source (+ and ground) no matter what the switch position.
If the switch was bad, you wouldn't be able to crank the engine. I would check all of the ground connections. Take them apart, wire brush, and re-assemble. The motor has a direct ground, and that would make it crank while nothing else works.
If that doesn't work, you can bypass the selector switch by hooking one battery terminal up to the load side and seeing if everything works.
#9
if your engine turns over with the selector then its fine....it either works or doesnt...there is no inbetween on the selector switches...it just supplies power to the starter...theres a power tap at the connection to the starter to supply the rest of the boat unless you have "other" wires put into the system.....
From the sounds of it (since you say the motor turns over with ease.....you have a bad ground most likey under your dash or a connection came loose in there....either look under the dash and check grounds if you can or pull the dash panel and look that way...
From the sounds of it (since you say the motor turns over with ease.....you have a bad ground most likey under your dash or a connection came loose in there....either look under the dash and check grounds if you can or pull the dash panel and look that way...
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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#10
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Well I fixed the problem. fenders were thrown into the compartment that the battery switch is in. In doing so there is a Hi Amp circuit breaker located nexted to the switch, If you push the red button that lookes like a reset button, this opens the circuit. there is a little lever that gets pushed down when the red rest is pushed , so in order to reset you must push this lever up. ( the red push button is not a reset but is a way to open the circuit.) If baha is going to pull this then the dot should make a red light go. and stop on green.