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I've spent the whole day on the phone dealing with the repower. I guess I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on the Mercury Racing HP525's. I'm just a little concernered about the gimbals and drives. How stupid am I if I stay with the Bravo X drives. I'm pretty easy on this boat. I'm not saying I don't run wide open once in a while, But for as getting out of the whole I don't think I've ever pushed the throttles wide open.
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Originally Posted by redbud35
(Post 2771145)
I've spent the whole day on the phone dealing with the repower. I guess I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on the Mercury Racing HP525's. I'm just a little concernered about the gimbals and drives. How stupid am I if I stay with the Bravo X drives. I'm pretty easy on this boat. I'm not saying I don't run wide open once in a while, But for as getting out of the whole I don't think I've ever pushed the throttles wide open.
If you can upgrade I would because the XR's will hold up much better. I'm like you in that I'm way over powered now for the XR's but I plan to try it and see what happens. I expect outdrives to be my largest expense over the next few years. Good luck and keep us posted. P.S. You may want to contact Dick Tryce "Mr Gadgets" here on the board and see what he thinks. He is one of the best outdrive people you will find and he will give you the straight facts. |
not exactly the same motor but..dads 33 outlaw, 500 efi, bravo one drives, first drive replaced at 400 hrs, and we like to run it:ernaehrung004:just be easy out the hole.
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Originally Posted by 24OL4NOW
(Post 2771227)
not exactly the same motor but..dads 33 outlaw, 500 efi, bravo one drives, first drive replaced at 400 hrs, and we like to run it:ernaehrung004:just be easy out the hole.
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I'd run the X's.
If you wanted to upgrade something on them, they make a top cap now that has a steel tower in it. That will help hold the driven gears ( especially the L/H rotating drive) in place a little better. Like I said over on MWBP, XR's can be broken too, I'm living proof, and I'm pretty good on the sticks ......at least that's what my passengers say:rolleyes::D |
Originally Posted by JaayTeee
(Post 2771266)
I'd run the X's.
If you wanted to upgrade something on them, they make a top cap now that has a steel tower in it. That will help hold the driven gears ( especially the L/H rotating drive) in place a little better. Like I said over on MWBP, XR's can be broken too, I'm living proof, and I'm pretty good on the sticks ......at least that's what my passengers say:rolleyes::D |
There is an XR gear set for the X upper you can get. The actual gears are the weak point in the X upper... I had X drives and converted them to XR gears - I think they were $485 a set call BAM Marine. If you do this, you need a special seal for the yolk - ask and they will tell you. The other weak point is the 1 inch shaft which I twisted like cursive handwriting. I replaced that with the IMCO 1 inch aerospce propshaft. These are cheap fixes that will save you some downtime. I run two Raylar kits and wasted an upper and a shaft and since I replaced them (different times) I havent had any problems. For around $700 a drive it is a cheap fix to get you to the next HP level.
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Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta
(Post 2771551)
There is an XR gear set for the X upper you can get. The actual gears are the weak point in the X upper... I had X drives and converted them to XR gears - I think they were $485 a set call BAM Marine. If you do this, you need a special seal for the yolk - ask and they will tell you. The other weak point is the 1 inch shaft which I twisted like cursive handwriting. I replaced that with the IMCO 1 inch aerospce propshaft. These are cheap fixes that will save you some downtime. I run two Raylar kits and wasted an upper and a shaft and since I replaced them (different times) I havent had any problems. For around $700 a drive it is a cheap fix to get you to the next HP level.
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Originally Posted by 24OL4NOW
(Post 2771227)
not exactly the same motor but..dads 33 outlaw, 500 efi, bravo one drives, first drive replaced at 400 hrs, and we like to run it:ernaehrung004:just be easy out the hole.
1) Easy out of the hole 2) Easy on the throttles at all times. "Don't hammer it" 3) KEEP YOUR PROPS IN THE WATER 4) Know where you engine makes peak torque and don't cruise at that RPM 5) Prop slip can me your friend as for drive life 6) Change you drive oil frequently, inspect the used oil and use a real good synthetic like Royal Purple BAM is a good source you can find there website easy on google. I have bought a lot from them but when it comes to outdrives you cannot beat Dick Tryce "Mr Gadgets". He knows his stuff and will help you with information, parts, repairs and complete drives. Phone 616-403-1006 email: [email protected] |
Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta
(Post 2771551)
There is an XR gear set for the X upper you can get. The actual gears are the weak point in the X upper... I had X drives and converted them to XR gears - I think they were $485 a set call BAM Marine. If you do this, you need a special seal for the yolk - ask and they will tell you. The other weak point is the 1 inch shaft which I twisted like cursive handwriting. I replaced that with the IMCO 1 inch aerospce propshaft. These are cheap fixes that will save you some downtime. I run two Raylar kits and wasted an upper and a shaft and since I replaced them (different times) I havent had any problems. For around $700 a drive it is a cheap fix to get you to the next HP level.
http://www.tiedealers.com/DealerTool...%20diagram.pdf last set I bought was in the $1300 range. Got a part # or kit # ?.....if they are available for $ 485, I'll buy a couple. |
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