My new(ish) 88 force 265
10-17-2012 | 02:33 PM
#31
Gold Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,692
Likes: 217
From: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
I am pretty sure that one don't have shorepower.... if memory serves me right....
I was gonna say do a relay but for a simple fix I ran bigger wire and a better switch... the relay will for sure take the load off the switch..
I was gonna say do a relay but for a simple fix I ran bigger wire and a better switch... the relay will for sure take the load off the switch..
10-17-2012 | 03:49 PM
#32
Registered
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,640
Likes: 4
10-17-2012 | 09:11 PM
#35
Registered
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Fairborn, Ohio
Your fridge is AC/DC - should be an AC plug hanging down near the helm. Plug that in and it should kick on. As for the DC side, you may find it wired into one of the ACC switches on the side panel, or it may be straight wired to the battery. There is a switch / temp control inside the fridge.
I weekend on my boat. "Pre-cooling" on AC is a great tip. I then run the DC on "2," and it keeps the food plenty cold (food in the fridge, beverages in a cooler).
Running the DC on 4 or higher would draw my battery down considerably.
10-17-2012 | 10:25 PM
#37
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Flint, Michigan
Forget changing the wire to the switch. The switch itself is probably fried from too much amperage running thru it. To to Radio Shack and buy a DPDT momentary switch like the one in there, and then do a search on the "Technical" forum for wiring in Bosch relays to raise and lower your hatch. This takes the load off the switch and supplies much more current directly to the hatch motor. Hatch will raise and lower much faster, and no more burnt switches.
Your fridge is AC/DC - should be an AC plug hanging down near the helm. Plug that in and it should kick on. As for the DC side, you may find it wired into one of the ACC switches on the side panel, or it may be straight wired to the battery. There is a switch / temp control inside the fridge.
Lose that teak swim platform and find a fiberglass platform off of a 90's era Baja Bandit or Outlaw. These are white fiberglass, bolt right on in place of the teak, and are much nicer. No more teak oil or varnish, and modernizes the looks of the boat considerably. I did this on mine, and it was one of the best mods that I did. Check local marinas and boat yards for a platform, or post a wanted ad in Swap Shop.
Your fridge is AC/DC - should be an AC plug hanging down near the helm. Plug that in and it should kick on. As for the DC side, you may find it wired into one of the ACC switches on the side panel, or it may be straight wired to the battery. There is a switch / temp control inside the fridge.
Lose that teak swim platform and find a fiberglass platform off of a 90's era Baja Bandit or Outlaw. These are white fiberglass, bolt right on in place of the teak, and are much nicer. No more teak oil or varnish, and modernizes the looks of the boat considerably. I did this on mine, and it was one of the best mods that I did. Check local marinas and boat yards for a platform, or post a wanted ad in Swap Shop.
10-18-2012 | 10:14 AM
#38
Registered
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Fairborn, Ohio
Mine runs to the battery, not through a switch. When I don't use it, I turn the thermosat to "off" and it draws no power.
10-18-2012 | 10:30 AM
#39
Registered
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Sandusky, Ohio
Forget changing the wire to the switch. The switch itself is probably fried from too much amperage running thru it. To to Radio Shack and buy a DPDT momentary switch like the one in there, and then do a search on the "Technical" forum for wiring in Bosch relays to raise and lower your hatch. This takes the load off the switch and supplies much more current directly to the hatch motor. Hatch will raise and lower much faster, and no more burnt switches.
Your fridge is AC/DC - should be an AC plug hanging down near the helm. Plug that in and it should kick on. As for the DC side, you may find it wired into one of the ACC switches on the side panel, or it may be straight wired to the battery. There is a switch / temp control inside the fridge.
Lose that teak swim platform and find a fiberglass platform off of a 90's era Baja Bandit or Outlaw. These are white fiberglass, bolt right on in place of the teak, and are much nicer. No more teak oil or varnish, and modernizes the looks of the boat considerably. I did this on mine, and it was one of the best mods that I did. Check local marinas and boat yards for a platform, or post a wanted ad in Swap Shop.
Your fridge is AC/DC - should be an AC plug hanging down near the helm. Plug that in and it should kick on. As for the DC side, you may find it wired into one of the ACC switches on the side panel, or it may be straight wired to the battery. There is a switch / temp control inside the fridge.
Lose that teak swim platform and find a fiberglass platform off of a 90's era Baja Bandit or Outlaw. These are white fiberglass, bolt right on in place of the teak, and are much nicer. No more teak oil or varnish, and modernizes the looks of the boat considerably. I did this on mine, and it was one of the best mods that I did. Check local marinas and boat yards for a platform, or post a wanted ad in Swap Shop.
Cdeezy here on the boards has a fiberglass platform that he isn't using anymore. He's from Toledo, might want to check with him.
