35 Outlaw trailer loading issue
#11
Registered
Thread Starter
Here are pics of it on trailer and appreciate all the input. I think it will be problem solved next time out. I've never drove a boat on the trailer but I think I can get trailer set like everyone suggest and winch it on. Thanks again.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]503984[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]503985[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]503986[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]503987[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]503988[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]503984[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]503985[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]503986[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]503987[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]503988[/ATTACH]
#12
Those last pictures really helped shed light on the situation.
That's a really nice trailer, however, it would load a LOT better if the center bunks went up to and maybe even past that little decorative keel roller. The long term ideal fix would be to have those bunks extended another 3 feet forward or so.
You will be better off trying the winching approach, but I can completely see why you are having issues. By the time you pull out of the water after getting the boat fully on the trailer (using your old approach), the weight of the boat is going to make it land wherever it's at once you start pulling forward, aligned or not.
I have seen people that put the guide-on posts on their boat with "tension" on the boat to actually touch the rub rail of the boat and force the boat to float centered. It works well, but you can't really put a full cover on the boat that goes over the rub rail; without long term chaffe damage to the cover.
That's a really nice trailer, however, it would load a LOT better if the center bunks went up to and maybe even past that little decorative keel roller. The long term ideal fix would be to have those bunks extended another 3 feet forward or so.
You will be better off trying the winching approach, but I can completely see why you are having issues. By the time you pull out of the water after getting the boat fully on the trailer (using your old approach), the weight of the boat is going to make it land wherever it's at once you start pulling forward, aligned or not.
I have seen people that put the guide-on posts on their boat with "tension" on the boat to actually touch the rub rail of the boat and force the boat to float centered. It works well, but you can't really put a full cover on the boat that goes over the rub rail; without long term chaffe damage to the cover.
#14
Registered
Thread Starter
Those last pictures really helped shed light on the situation.
That's a really nice trailer, however, it would load a LOT better if the center bunks went up to and maybe even past that little decorative keel roller. The long term ideal fix would be to have those bunks extended another 3 feet forward or so.
You will be better off trying the winching approach, but I can completely see why you are having issues. By the time you pull out of the water after getting the boat fully on the trailer (using your old approach), the weight of the boat is going to make it land wherever it's at once you start pulling forward, aligned or not.
I have seen people that put the guide-on posts on their boat with "tension" on the boat to actually touch the rub rail of the boat and force the boat to float centered. It works well, but you can't really put a full cover on the boat that goes over the rub rail; without long term chaffe damage to the cover.
That's a really nice trailer, however, it would load a LOT better if the center bunks went up to and maybe even past that little decorative keel roller. The long term ideal fix would be to have those bunks extended another 3 feet forward or so.
You will be better off trying the winching approach, but I can completely see why you are having issues. By the time you pull out of the water after getting the boat fully on the trailer (using your old approach), the weight of the boat is going to make it land wherever it's at once you start pulling forward, aligned or not.
I have seen people that put the guide-on posts on their boat with "tension" on the boat to actually touch the rub rail of the boat and force the boat to float centered. It works well, but you can't really put a full cover on the boat that goes over the rub rail; without long term chaffe damage to the cover.
Yep agree on the fix but not sure yet where I would take it to get fixed the way I'd be ok with it, I'm a little...no make that a lot anal and I'd want it to look like it was all original not cobbled together I may start to look around in the area to find someone to do it. As you can see and now that everyone has helped me I can see how floating it all the way to the front roller lets the ass go where it wants and then with the bottom bunks being so close together due to the hull design it will never just set down centered unless by pure chance.
Going to hold off on the guide posts but it's an option I'm going for the winch approach I feel pretty confident I can get it following everyone's input.
#15
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Thread Starter
Yea technically not stepped like you would think of with the steps from bow to stern but I didn't know what else to call it as that bottom "step" was not on my Outlaw 33
#17
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#18
Registered
Thread Starter
Thanks NAILIT maybe that's what its called but I thought notched was a flat in the bottom at the back whatever it is the bastard wasn't loading easy!
Last edited by Awash; 07-07-2013 at 07:21 PM.
#19
Any master welder could modify that, especially since it's steel. Take it in with the boat on the trailer for measurements, and then drop the boat in the Chain for a few days.
It would take a body shop to finish paint it; and you would want to get the paint code from the trailer manufacturer.
Ask around at the local industrial park who is the best welder in town. You want to find the guy that is busy, not the guy who is bored. The guy who is busy never has to advertise, and is always jammed up with work; because he's damn good. Also, ask around the local stock car racing circles. Keith at Waves and Wheels (or whatever his place is called) is also another place to ask.
It would take a body shop to finish paint it; and you would want to get the paint code from the trailer manufacturer.
Ask around at the local industrial park who is the best welder in town. You want to find the guy that is busy, not the guy who is bored. The guy who is busy never has to advertise, and is always jammed up with work; because he's damn good. Also, ask around the local stock car racing circles. Keith at Waves and Wheels (or whatever his place is called) is also another place to ask.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 07-07-2013 at 07:30 PM.
#20
Registered
Thread Starter
It would take a body shop to finish paint it; and you would want to get the paint code from the trailer manufacturer.
Ask around at the local industrial park who is the best welder in town. You want to find the guy that is busy, not the guy who is bored. The guy who is busy never has to advertise, and is always jammed up with work; because he's damn good. Also, ask around the local stock car racing circles. Keith at Waves and Wheels (or whatever his place is called) is also another place to ask.
Ask around at the local industrial park who is the best welder in town. You want to find the guy that is busy, not the guy who is bored. The guy who is busy never has to advertise, and is always jammed up with work; because he's damn good. Also, ask around the local stock car racing circles. Keith at Waves and Wheels (or whatever his place is called) is also another place to ask.