Coming back to Baja after 10 years - any tips?
#21
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Tap testing is effective; we even use it on aircraft composites when ultrasonic equipment is not available.
You basically want to hear a crisp sound, with no distinct changes in sound as you move around the entire transom area and stringers. I'm sure if you Google it you'll find lots of information. The stringers are the longitudinal structural members that you see in the engine bay supporting the engines. They are encapsulated in fiberglass, but in production there could have been voids, unsealed drain holes, etc. where moisture could penetrate. As for the transom, there are many through hull fittings, screws etc. which may not have been properly sealed at the factory.
Alternatively, you could ask a surveyor to just check for these things at a much reduced cost, to ensure you don't buy a boat with any rot. I hate paying surveyors too; but you don't want to get stuck with a turd just to save a few $$$$. Your insurance company may ask for a recent survey regardless. Also, ask the seller if he has one.
And ABSOLUTELY do a water test prior to handing over the cash. Make the deal conditional on it. Bring her up to full speed and see what she's doing GPS. Check the bilge for water after the run (may indicate bellows leakage, etc.). Wouldn't hurt to drain a bit of drive lube out either, checking for milkiness (water ingress).
Ask the seller for records - maintenance history: impellers, drive service, unscheduled repairs, etc.
You basically want to hear a crisp sound, with no distinct changes in sound as you move around the entire transom area and stringers. I'm sure if you Google it you'll find lots of information. The stringers are the longitudinal structural members that you see in the engine bay supporting the engines. They are encapsulated in fiberglass, but in production there could have been voids, unsealed drain holes, etc. where moisture could penetrate. As for the transom, there are many through hull fittings, screws etc. which may not have been properly sealed at the factory.
Alternatively, you could ask a surveyor to just check for these things at a much reduced cost, to ensure you don't buy a boat with any rot. I hate paying surveyors too; but you don't want to get stuck with a turd just to save a few $$$$. Your insurance company may ask for a recent survey regardless. Also, ask the seller if he has one.
And ABSOLUTELY do a water test prior to handing over the cash. Make the deal conditional on it. Bring her up to full speed and see what she's doing GPS. Check the bilge for water after the run (may indicate bellows leakage, etc.). Wouldn't hurt to drain a bit of drive lube out either, checking for milkiness (water ingress).
Ask the seller for records - maintenance history: impellers, drive service, unscheduled repairs, etc.
Last edited by puzzleboy; 05-23-2015 at 12:18 PM.
#22
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Tap testing is effective; we even use it on aircraft composites when ultrasonic equipment is not available.
You basically want to hear a crisp sound, with no distinct changes in sound as you move around the entire transom area and stringers. I'm sure if you Google it you'll find lots of information. The stringers are the longitudinal structural members that you see in the engine bay supporting the engines. They are encapsulated in fiberglass, but in production there could have been voids, unsealed drain holes, etc. where moisture could penetrate. As for the transom, there are many through hull fittings, screws etc. which may not have been properly sealed at the factory.
Alternatively, you could ask a surveyor to just check for these things at a much reduced cost, to ensure you don't buy a boat with any rot. I hate paying surveyors too; but you don't want to get stuck with a turd just to save a few $$$$. Your insurance company may ask for a recent survey regardless. Also, ask the seller if he has one.
And ABSOLUTELY do a water test prior to handing over the cash. Make the deal conditional on it. Bring her up to full speed and see what she's doing GPS. Check the bilge for water after the run (may indicate bellows leakage, etc.). Wouldn't hurt to drain a bit of drive lube out either, checking for milkiness (water ingress).
Ask the seller for records - maintenance history: impellers, drive service, unscheduled repairs, etc.
You basically want to hear a crisp sound, with no distinct changes in sound as you move around the entire transom area and stringers. I'm sure if you Google it you'll find lots of information. The stringers are the longitudinal structural members that you see in the engine bay supporting the engines. They are encapsulated in fiberglass, but in production there could have been voids, unsealed drain holes, etc. where moisture could penetrate. As for the transom, there are many through hull fittings, screws etc. which may not have been properly sealed at the factory.
Alternatively, you could ask a surveyor to just check for these things at a much reduced cost, to ensure you don't buy a boat with any rot. I hate paying surveyors too; but you don't want to get stuck with a turd just to save a few $$$$. Your insurance company may ask for a recent survey regardless. Also, ask the seller if he has one.
And ABSOLUTELY do a water test prior to handing over the cash. Make the deal conditional on it. Bring her up to full speed and see what she's doing GPS. Check the bilge for water after the run (may indicate bellows leakage, etc.). Wouldn't hurt to drain a bit of drive lube out either, checking for milkiness (water ingress).
Ask the seller for records - maintenance history: impellers, drive service, unscheduled repairs, etc.
#24
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I'm hoping to close the deal on a 33OL tomorrow. Driving 1,000 miles to look take a boat ride and buy the boat if everything checks out.
The weather looks perfect. Assuming Border Patrol let's me through Canada tonight I should be at a marina this time tomorrow morning.
The weather looks perfect. Assuming Border Patrol let's me through Canada tonight I should be at a marina this time tomorrow morning.
#25
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Well my road trip to the east coast was a bust. I had to walk away from the 33OL I'd been dealing on. It was a bummer but the right decision.
I did see a beauty of a 44' Apache while waiting to get into Canada yesterday. Man that thing was massive...
I did see a beauty of a 44' Apache while waiting to get into Canada yesterday. Man that thing was massive...
#26
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Maybe a 41 or 47 not a 44..............so what was wrong with the 33
Last edited by F-2 Speedy; 05-30-2015 at 01:42 PM.
#28
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It was a pretty disappointing end to a 13 hour drive, that's for sure. Here's why I had to walk away.
EDIT: Because I failed to review the photos closely, I did not read emails correctly and I was not attentive during our phone calls.
EDIT: Because I failed to review the photos closely, I did not read emails correctly and I was not attentive during our phone calls.
Last edited by stee6043; 06-02-2015 at 08:06 AM. Reason: Threat Avoidance
#29
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That's exactly the reason it's nice to deal with someone who's well known and respected in the community. I think you are doing yourself a disservice not considering 33 OUTLAWSST boat. I know him personally, as many others here do. That's exactly the kinda chit you won't get from him.
It's good you walked on this deal. The boat sounds like it had red flags all over it. I think it's impulse hell when you drive 10 hours, blow $100 in fuel to look at a boat with cash in your pocket. The owner knows this too and has oversold the boat, but now your there and he can negotiate "a deal" on a boat that's not what you came to buy. Two weeks later you're wondering WTF happened while you uncover one rats nest after another while the sellers voice is ringing in your ears "it's not that bad".
Do yourself a favor and see what you can get into 33's boat for. You my pay a little more (I have no idea) but you're not going to be jerked around, lied to or taken advantage of. You won't be wasting each other's time either, if you're serious about buying a solid, well maintained boat.
Thanks for sharing, keep us posted. Good luck.
It's good you walked on this deal. The boat sounds like it had red flags all over it. I think it's impulse hell when you drive 10 hours, blow $100 in fuel to look at a boat with cash in your pocket. The owner knows this too and has oversold the boat, but now your there and he can negotiate "a deal" on a boat that's not what you came to buy. Two weeks later you're wondering WTF happened while you uncover one rats nest after another while the sellers voice is ringing in your ears "it's not that bad".
Do yourself a favor and see what you can get into 33's boat for. You my pay a little more (I have no idea) but you're not going to be jerked around, lied to or taken advantage of. You won't be wasting each other's time either, if you're serious about buying a solid, well maintained boat.
Thanks for sharing, keep us posted. Good luck.
#30
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Yeah, the guy sounds like a BS'er. A shame you had to waste your time. What was he asking for it? Is it still on Ebay?
Thanks for sharing; sorry it didn't work out. Keep in mind, lots of sellers are BS'ers. But let's say the boat and power were solid... All the things you mentioned could be remedied relatively inexpensively.... And provided the seller dropped the price substantially, maybe a good deal could be had. But yeah, the trust factor is significant.
Saw this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-33-Baja...m=271882956624
37k would be good if it checked out. Fresh motors apparently. No trailer.
Thanks for sharing; sorry it didn't work out. Keep in mind, lots of sellers are BS'ers. But let's say the boat and power were solid... All the things you mentioned could be remedied relatively inexpensively.... And provided the seller dropped the price substantially, maybe a good deal could be had. But yeah, the trust factor is significant.
Saw this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-33-Baja...m=271882956624
37k would be good if it checked out. Fresh motors apparently. No trailer.
Last edited by puzzleboy; 05-31-2015 at 11:39 PM.