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-   -   25 Outlaw Whipple Merc 525 EFI (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/baja/344810-25-outlaw-whipple-merc-525-efi.html)

IGetWet 03-26-2017 11:32 AM

Hmm, now that you mention it the cometic gasket number that came off are C5333-051 which are 4.540 bore and .051" thickness. Bored to 4.5"?

Again I was so focused on valvetrain I didn't even think to check these basics out...

MILD THUNDER 03-26-2017 11:37 AM


Originally Posted by IGetWet (Post 4540900)
Hmm, now that you mention it the cometic gasket number that came off are C5333-051 which are 4.540 bore and .051" thickness. Bored to 4.5"?

Again I was so focused on valvetrain I didn't even think to check these basics out...

You'd really have to measure the bore. Or, if you have a scope, you can look inside for a piston part number on the bottom of the pistons. usually they put a part number on the bottom of the piston. Assuming you don't want to pull the oil pan off.

It also be a good idea to check the deck height, and see how far the piston is below the deck. Many shops will zero deck the block. If zero decked, and .051 headgasket, you have .051 quench. If piston is in the hole .010, you have .061 quench, and so on. Also effects the static compression ratio.

IGetWet 03-26-2017 01:10 PM

Gotchya. Thanks again M T. I'll do some more measurements tomorrow. The plot thickens...

bohmi 03-27-2017 10:07 AM


Originally Posted by IGetWet (Post 4535673)
So how do we feel about picking the motor by the four corner header mount bolts? They're 3/8-16 bolts. The only thing that makes me slightly nervous is the bolts seem to have a little play or slop when threaded in, a very small amount, not sure why, maybe because of the stainless header bolts in the aluminum heads? More than one shop I've talked to about picking the motor says they pick them with a spreader bar and loop straps underneath the headers, but I'd like to avoid that if possible.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]565415[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]565416[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]565417[/ATTACH]

What about something like this to help hoisting? You can bottom the threads, get full engagement and get rid of the slop you're worried about. A little pricey but might be worth having in the toolbox.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hoist-rings/=16xr0o6

The hoist rings might help, but can you get a different strap to get that big hook out of the way? I'd hate to see a big gouge in that gasket surface.....

Very cool thread.

MILD THUNDER 03-27-2017 10:21 AM

I put a long grade 8 bolt in each corner of the engine at the exhaust holes. And then use sewn loop straps, 1 inch wide with the reinforced ends for abrasion resistance. Works great. No chsins dragging all over the engines, more than enough carrying capacity, and engine lifts nice and straight.

IGetWet 03-27-2017 04:29 PM


Originally Posted by bohmi (Post 4541146)
What about something like this to help hoisting? You can bottom the threads, get full engagement and get rid of the slop you're worried about. A little pricey but might be worth having in the toolbox.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hoist-rings/=16xr0o6

The hoist rings might help, but can you get a different strap to get that big hook out of the way? I'd hate to see a big gouge in that gasket surface.....

Very cool thread.

Thanks for the idea. Think I got the lifting figured out. Using a long enough bolt to bottom it out like you mentioned but not too much space for the hook to slide around on the bolt. I put the bolt through the solid eye of the hook where the strap attaches with a 3/8 and 1/2" washer just so there's no chance of any funny business. I had the motor up in the air for about an hour while I changed oil and drained coolant. Seemed to work out well. If I were picking motors up more often I think I would be getting some of those hoist rings though.

IGetWet 03-27-2017 04:32 PM


Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4541150)
I put a long grade 8 bolt in each corner of the engine at the exhaust holes. And then use sewn loop straps, 1 inch wide with the reinforced ends for abrasion resistance. Works great. No chsins dragging all over the engines, more than enough carrying capacity, and engine lifts nice and straight.

Yes I also position the straps so they're straight up and down and not around the corner of the heads. Funny how a pretty easy lift gets a guy really nervous when the things 10 feet in the air...

IGetWet 03-27-2017 04:41 PM

Did some investigating on the valve springs. PAC tells me they're not their springs. I believe they're afr 8002, blue and black strip on them is what points me to those along with specs being close. The afr 8002 spec 165lb @ 1.980", 475 spring rate per inch, 1.180" coil bind. I measured install at 1.967" so that would put my seat pressure at 172.125 according to specs, but I definitely did not measure that unless my gauge is that far off... Open pressure would be 472.325 exhaust and 461.875 intake.

I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea to measure all the springs while heads are getting resurfaced.

rvtransport 03-28-2017 10:18 AM

Bad ass 25OL! I remember talking with you at Four Horseman last couple years. Look forward to seeing boat this year. I had a 25ol with procharged 496 years ago and had a lot fun in that boat. Cool project!

IGetWet 03-28-2017 01:17 PM


Originally Posted by rvtransport (Post 4541483)
Bad ass 25OL! I remember talking with you at Four Horseman last couple years. Look forward to seeing boat this year. I had a 25ol with procharged 496 years ago and had a lot fun in that boat. Cool project!

Cool and thanks! What hp and speeds with your outlaw? Looking forward to the four horsemen as well but at this rate it seems like I'm going backwards and it'll never get done. But the boat did come out of storage today and is at the fiberglass man to touch up some small stress cracks. Heads are getting resurfaced then it should start coming together.


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