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Hmm, now that you mention it the cometic gasket number that came off are C5333-051 which are 4.540 bore and .051" thickness. Bored to 4.5"?
Again I was so focused on valvetrain I didn't even think to check these basics out... |
Originally Posted by IGetWet
(Post 4540900)
Hmm, now that you mention it the cometic gasket number that came off are C5333-051 which are 4.540 bore and .051" thickness. Bored to 4.5"?
Again I was so focused on valvetrain I didn't even think to check these basics out... It also be a good idea to check the deck height, and see how far the piston is below the deck. Many shops will zero deck the block. If zero decked, and .051 headgasket, you have .051 quench. If piston is in the hole .010, you have .061 quench, and so on. Also effects the static compression ratio. |
Gotchya. Thanks again M T. I'll do some more measurements tomorrow. The plot thickens...
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Originally Posted by IGetWet
(Post 4535673)
So how do we feel about picking the motor by the four corner header mount bolts? They're 3/8-16 bolts. The only thing that makes me slightly nervous is the bolts seem to have a little play or slop when threaded in, a very small amount, not sure why, maybe because of the stainless header bolts in the aluminum heads? More than one shop I've talked to about picking the motor says they pick them with a spreader bar and loop straps underneath the headers, but I'd like to avoid that if possible.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]565415[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]565416[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]565417[/ATTACH] https://www.mcmaster.com/#hoist-rings/=16xr0o6 The hoist rings might help, but can you get a different strap to get that big hook out of the way? I'd hate to see a big gouge in that gasket surface..... Very cool thread. |
I put a long grade 8 bolt in each corner of the engine at the exhaust holes. And then use sewn loop straps, 1 inch wide with the reinforced ends for abrasion resistance. Works great. No chsins dragging all over the engines, more than enough carrying capacity, and engine lifts nice and straight.
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Originally Posted by bohmi
(Post 4541146)
What about something like this to help hoisting? You can bottom the threads, get full engagement and get rid of the slop you're worried about. A little pricey but might be worth having in the toolbox.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#hoist-rings/=16xr0o6 The hoist rings might help, but can you get a different strap to get that big hook out of the way? I'd hate to see a big gouge in that gasket surface..... Very cool thread. |
Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4541150)
I put a long grade 8 bolt in each corner of the engine at the exhaust holes. And then use sewn loop straps, 1 inch wide with the reinforced ends for abrasion resistance. Works great. No chsins dragging all over the engines, more than enough carrying capacity, and engine lifts nice and straight.
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Did some investigating on the valve springs. PAC tells me they're not their springs. I believe they're afr 8002, blue and black strip on them is what points me to those along with specs being close. The afr 8002 spec 165lb @ 1.980", 475 spring rate per inch, 1.180" coil bind. I measured install at 1.967" so that would put my seat pressure at 172.125 according to specs, but I definitely did not measure that unless my gauge is that far off... Open pressure would be 472.325 exhaust and 461.875 intake.
I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea to measure all the springs while heads are getting resurfaced. |
Bad ass 25OL! I remember talking with you at Four Horseman last couple years. Look forward to seeing boat this year. I had a 25ol with procharged 496 years ago and had a lot fun in that boat. Cool project!
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Originally Posted by rvtransport
(Post 4541483)
Bad ass 25OL! I remember talking with you at Four Horseman last couple years. Look forward to seeing boat this year. I had a 25ol with procharged 496 years ago and had a lot fun in that boat. Cool project!
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