Fixing the thing is probably what is going to happen anyway but that was not the point. I had it priced out today at 400 for the sleeve, cam bearings and labor. I don't know about the rest of the parts yet I still need to price them out.

I don't know enough about engines to know if the damage was there before i bought it or not so I do nor want to say names. I had them shipped from texas.

500 miles?? Thats only a 4 1/2 hr drive when I'M pizzed , tell us the details like-price, what was claimed or promised before you paid-if guy said motor is turn key runs great and you paid him 7500 each then be in his driveway when he wakes up in morning asking for a refund. If you paid 1000 each and he said they are used, never ran them have no idea of the condition then you got what you paid for, Smitty

Going to cost you much more than 400 $ to take a motor down from full dress sitting in your boat NOT running right to being back out, torn down, stripped clean, hot tanked, cylinder bored THEN sleeved, THEN block re-decked, complete gaskets kit, head gaskets, cam bearings, freeze plugs, rings , re-assembled not to mention ANYTHING else that is significantly worn while apart-ie timing chain, lifters, valve job, cam, pistons, oil pump etc. Then re-assembled, re-dressed out and re-installed back into your boat!!

That was just the cam bearings, sleeve and work associated with sleeving it. I am completly capable of removing and installing the engine and accessories but don't know enough YET about engines but have a feeling that is about to change. At this point i would have been better off rebuilding the blown engine I allready have sitting in my garage.

The deal was that I was buying two 330 engines one that had hydrolocked and the other was supposed to be drop in ready add shipping from Houston area TX to Omaha NE.

Another lesson learned the hard way.

For the third time...how much did you pay for them ?

I am not sure if you can even tell or not if this was a long time issue that he would have known about or not. My first thoughts were that yes he should have know by the way it would have ran and also that there was no way I could have caused this without ever running it past 2000 rpm for the less than 10 total min it ran in my garage but then again I don’t know enough to say.

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9ce8f163.jpg

ok well there was your first clue before they left the place... "HYDRAULIC LOCK UP" that is water in the cylinder, or gas, but either or means $$$

this is the cause of your HYDRAULIC problem, was likely all along, but impossible to see without partial engine disassembly, or a really good bore scope

That is a pic of the "drop in ready" engine and not the hydrolocked engine.

I just looked at your picture. Yes it can be easily sleeved. You may even be able to use piston, if not showing signs of any damage. If you bought it with out checking it out first, I hate to say; bought as is. If the person is a business, I feel that's a different path. Do you feel they sold it knowing it was cracked? Was the engine rebuilt at some time before this? That crack, just didn't show up. A pin hole, I would believe.
You have to contact the seller and see if they have any integrity. I would ask them for the fair amount to repair it, or send it back for a refund, plus shipping. It would be better for them to agree to repairs. Tear down, sleeve, rebore them hone, assy. The tricky part will be sleeving and removing the distortion in the opposing cylinders with out going over size on clearance.