Engine Shop
 

Yesterday I dropped the boat off at Tyler Crockett Marine Engines to add some power to our 454MAG. I brought the camera to take a few pictures of the shop and some of there projects. I did not get a chance to meet Tyler (he was out of the office) but I did meet his brother Dave and another employee named Steve. Dave and Steve were great guys. They showed me around the shop and we could of talked about building hp all day. Enjoy the pictures.

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Here are a few other "let's make it go faster" projects they had around the shop.

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Good luck with that upgrade!! Do you have hydraulic steering? XR drive?

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No hydraulic steering and/or XR drive. I do not plan on adding either this year. Although I agree both are important, money is spacing out the upgrades.

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Most important: Make sure you get it dyno'ed. It should not be much more than $500. Trust me!!!!!!

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I understand your point, just be careful with it.

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I agree. Dyno time can prevent a major melt down of pistons.

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What package are you getting? You should upgrade the steering fairly soon, very important when putting decent power in your boat.

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The engine is being tuned on the dyno and that is included with the upgrade package. Tyler also said he would take the boat out with me when I pick it up to try a few different props out. Sounds like a first class operation.

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The upgrade kit is the featured product on Tyler's website. It includes porting and milling the heads .020, new intake and exhaust valves, exhaust, cam, timing chain set, reprogramming the ECU, fuel pump w/ cooler, fuel pump regulator and let's not forget about a new flame arrestor. The kit comes with a boost in hp of 90 or 110 depending on the cam specs. We chose the 90 hp cam so we could keep the Captain's Call exhaust (wife's request).

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That one hits home. I didnt tell my wife a thing, when I upgraded my power. However, she did figure out something big was going on when I spent the entire winter in the garage. She never ventures out there, so I was safe from prying eyes. The first time I fired the engine up in the driveway, she thought something was up with the extra noise. I made up some B.S. excuse about it sounding louder because it was echoing off the house and garage. When she came out for her first ride, I had alot of b.s.ing to do. :eek: I got away with it. :D Remember, I am running full dry CMI's with GGB Extreme mufflers. :eek:

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Nice save! Mine doesn't say a whole lot about the noise, I think she may even like it. I rarely ever use my captains call. I would rather not have it.

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Keep upgrading those motors. Between the motor and the wind noise at high speed, you won't hear a thing she says.


Until it breaks at speed and she is yelling "what was that!" as you coast to a stop dead in the water.
Just be sure the boat is stable at all speeds and she will never know how quick you are, right ?

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I agree with the need for stability. Thats more important than running fast. Anything can run fast. Most waverunners are fast. But, running fast, safely in rough water is alot harder to do.

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Well put, running fast safely in rough water is something that takes time to perfect.

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Dyno sheet says 461HP at 5100rpms and 514lbs at 3700rpms. The speed of the boat went from 65.0mph (GPS) at 5100rpm spinning a 23 Mirage Plus to 72.3mph (same handhelf GPS) at 5000rpm spinning a 26 labbed. I am very impressed with the speed increase (feels like a different boat at all speeds), but the dyno numbers seem a little soft to produce such an increase in speed. Any thoughts?

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I was told 17-20 HP is needed to pull 1 additional MPH @ WOT. Tyler Crockett mentioned most of the stock fuel injected 454MAGs that he has dynoed pull between 370-380 peak HP. Let's say our boat had 370HP to start with and now has 461HP. That's a difference of 91HP. 91HP divided by the 7mph gain equals 13HP. We used the same hand held GPS and driver(me) that we always have on the boat. Don't get me wrong I am extremely happy, but just curious on how the hell that happened.

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Rob,

I dont understand those numbers either. More power to you if they are right but the facts are below.

(((pitch x rpm) / ratio)) / 1056= theoretical speed
Then add in slip.

your numbers are as follows, assuming a 1.5 ratio drive..

24.5 x 5000= 122500
122500 / 1.5 = 8166.66666
8166.666 / 1056 = 77.33
So 77.33 is theoretical speed without slip factored in. If you are actually running 72.3 then your slip is only 6.5% . That would be great . Unfortunetly, most likely impossible. Here is a for instance.. I am running a Hydromotive P5-X and am getting 9.5% slip.

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Vinny,
Thank you for the formula. If you plugged in 26 for the prop pitch 72.3mph would equal a 12% slip, maybe more realistic. I hope to do more testing this weekend. Out of the three variables that are plugged into the formula rpm, prop pitch and speed I have the most confidence in the handheld GPS unit. The tach is the orginal unit that came with the boat and the prop was borrowed from a friend who recently picked them up with the purchase of a boat. The prop was given to me in a box that appeared to be a labbed finished prop from Mercury.

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Rob, part of that additional speed is realized from the more efficient/larger pitch prop. Don't question the MPH Gods, just enjoy!!! You've already got Wally talking Pro Chargers!

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Congrats on the speed numbers. I think you might be able to find a few more MPH with some prop testing. That speed sound close to what others have said with similiar HP numbers. Enjoy!

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Rob,

When you are calculating theoretical speed with a Bravo 1 prop, you must deduct 1 1/2" of pitch. For some reason, Bravo 1 props are measured at their maximum pitch, where as other props are measured at average pitch. There is a 3" pitch progression from the leading edge of the blade to the trailing edge. The formula is calculted at average pitch. So, to use the formula correctly, you have to deduct 1/2 of the pitch progression on those props, or 1 1/2".

As I said, I am not knocking or doubting your speed at all. I am just one who likes and believes in numbers.

Good luck and be safe.

Vinny

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Vinny,
I agree trusted formulas are important in predicting accurate results. I ran the boat yesterday and achieved more realistic speeds but I am puzzled nevertheless. The first GPS run hit 71.8mph((5000rpm)7%slip) with just myself on the boat. I was convinced at that point we have a 72mph boat and couldn't wait for some friends to come down so I could show them. The boat pulled two more runs each with a passenger now resulting in 67.8 and 68.2mph both at 5000rpm and 12% slip. Certainly these numbers make more sense. I do have a theory on the higher GPS speeds. The max speed reading of 72.3 and 71.8mph was when we had a light load on the boat and rough water resulting in a significant amount of air time. The boat can achieve these higher speeds for few seconds out of the water but can not sustain these speeds for any length of time while moving in the water. I have concluded with this new data hydraulic steering can wait until the boat has more power.
Rob

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Rob,
Your right about the water conditions and load. I experience the same situtation. I can run 80 any day, regardless of load or water. However, an a good day, lighter load, right amount of chop, I'll get 84 mph. Thats just the way it is.
Get the steering anyway. You wont be sorry. Your wallet will be, but you will be smiling.

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I agree steering is king!. I don't even think your wallet will mind that much, maybe the wife. :evilb: I think you can run those top speeds alot safer with more confidence with steering.

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OK, hydraulic steering it is.

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Does anyone know if I need a 4 or 7 inch stem for the steering wheel on a 2000 259 Convincor? Should the stem be angled or straight?

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Rob,

Our boats are identical. I used Imco's tilt helm. Fit like a glove. Take a look at the picture. Their hydraulic unit fit perfect also. I got it in through the wiring access panel in the cabin behind the dash. If you want to see, I can take a picture this weekend for you.

Vinny

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Vinny,
I ordered the Imco product you suggested the SA-2. I was under the impression they did not have a tilt helm. The stem angles would be fixed at straight out or 15 degrees. Pictures would be appreciated.
Rob

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Thats weird... I just checked their site, they dont list the tilt helm. Maybe they stopped making it ?? try to call them

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Rob, congrats on the upgrades. Now you need to blueprint the bottom, get a shorty outdrive w/ a nose cone and a scoop through the the sunpad! :D
Looks like I'm going to have to Buy that Skater to keep up with you and Wally. :drink:

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Thanks Scotty. I am done with upgrades on the boat for some time. You may want to jump in that Skater soon or before you know it you'll have kids, 529 plans and soccer games to attend on the weekends.

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If you don't mind me asking what was the cost of the package through Crockett I've been thinking about doing it.

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My total bill from Crockett came to 8k. The pricing for the kit is on his website.

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Well we are almost done spending money on the Checkmate this year. I would like to modify some of my earlier thoughts on the upgrades. To start I did add Imco dual ram hydraulic steering to the helm. The boat had it's last water test of the season yesterday and ran 72.1mph@5100rpms with just me in the boat. I had the boat WOT for some time to see if the boat varied it's top speed with water conditions etc. and the GPS was stuck at 72. The only changes made with the most recent water test were a different prop and the hydraulic steering. The new prop is a 26 4 blade Bravo 1 that was labbed by bblades. The bblades labbed prop had thinner blades and sharper edges than the Mercruiser labbed prop that was borrowed from a friend. The new prop appeared to add about 100rpm at WOT. The hydraulic steering had less play from side to side and it stays in postion when you release the wheel (that's cool) but did not provide much more of a stable feeling at WOT. In conclusion I spent more money than I expected, learned a few things and had alot fun with the whole experience.

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Rob,

Glad it all worked out well. You did the right thing with the steering.
I had my last run today. I had a great season. Put about 80 hours on it, most of them tough ones. Last year I had a bunch of drive problems, and got tired of letting the local "experts" get their hands in it. Last winter, I rebuilt it myself. I set-up new gears, bearings, seals, etc. I am happy to say that I did nothing to the drive except change the gear lube every 20 hours. Not bad for a first time drive rebuilder. Spent some money on tools, had Mr Gadgets on the phone a few times for advice, but it all worked out well. I should have the drive apart by next weekend for inspection. Even if the internals are junk, I am ahead of the game as compared to last year. :evilb:

Vinny

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Man you guys went boating today. My boat is winterized and I rode my snowmobile in Northern Michigan today, they had 8" of wet snow. :evilb: :drink:

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RJBBC, did you order direct from IMCO or go thru a dealer? If you don't mind me asking, what was the cost of the system? It is the complete system, correct? - full hydraulic from the helm to the dual rams at the drive? Did you install it? How long did it take to install? Thanks

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You can buy the steering systems direct or through various distributors. I installed a dual ram add on system, it wasn't too difficult but it is nice to have a extra set of hands to help with the install. After I did it once it will be very easy if I ever do it again. I am thinking about installing a full hydraulic helm next spring.

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I ordered the complete dual ram hydraulic steering to the helm from IMCO directly. The IMCO representative I talked to on the phone mentioned it should take about 10 hours to install. He mentioned that you should tie a rope around the cable steering you are taking out so you can feed the new hydraulic lines to the helm and that could save alot of time. The system cost $3700 complete including a new steering wheel. I had our local marina mechanic install the system and it took him 10 hours. He did a great job with the install, looks like it was installed from the factory.