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Old 09-25-2008 | 12:05 PM
  #11  
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Fortunately, you only have to replace ONE rod bolt, the other looks to be in tact. IMO you may want to straighten' the one out a little in the bench-vice first, and take a thread-file to it.



Seriously though, sorry about your loss... you have my sympathy.
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Old 09-25-2008 | 12:45 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Chris Sunkin
One more reason why you shouldn't try to save a buck on rod bolts.
My current Carrillos have CARR bolts. You can reuse them after the rods are cycled out. They were spendy though.

Don't waste any time deciding on your oil cooler if you are trying to get up and running soon.
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Old 09-25-2008 | 01:05 PM
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I saw that at Matt's shop. The hole in the pan was the first thing I noticed and of corse the silver paint. Good luck, Matt will have that thing working soon then you'll be spilling beers with the rest of us.
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Old 09-25-2008 | 01:41 PM
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Carr's are definitely the way to go. Cheeeeeeap insurance.
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Old 09-25-2008 | 08:11 PM
  #15  
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OUCH! That sucks Luke!
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Old 09-26-2008 | 08:56 AM
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yep, btdt. 5200rpm-0rpm-cylinder wall lying in the bilge in a big puddle of oil and water. My block was in 13 pieces. It fell apart when I unbolted the sheet metal parts. Snapped an ARP rod bolt clean and all hell broke loose for about 3 seconds.
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Old 09-26-2008 | 01:46 PM
  #17  
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3 seconds= 260 revolutions.

Mine was at over 6K and even though I thought I jerked the stick back "really really fast" I figured the broken rod swung around having sex with everything 300 plus times.

Of course the lake was quickly engulfed in white smoke too.

.
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Old 09-26-2008 | 09:06 PM
  #18  
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I've blown up 6 or 7 and never that bad, sorry to hear that Tank.
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Old 09-30-2008 | 06:29 PM
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That's what happens when you pump the oil out of an engine due to a cracked oil cooler. It had absolutely nothing to due with rod bolts.
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Old 10-01-2008 | 05:18 PM
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mr hp to the rescue!!!!!!!!
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