Winter project - Motors/Bilge
01-13-2012 | 08:02 AM
#31
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 73
From: chicago
Guys, when you are ready to degrease the bilge, those spray cans of engine degreaser from autozone/pep boys work well to get the heavy grease loose. Then a scrubbing with some simple green or purple power. After that, some dawn dish soap and HOT water. Once it all drys out for a few days, a wipe down with laquer thinner, paint deglosser, or acetone will prep it for some fresh paint.
Key is hot water for cleaning imo. If its not 100% cleaned and grease free, the new paint will peel and crack in short order.
Thats a very nice looking Cafe Racer BTW!!
Key is hot water for cleaning imo. If its not 100% cleaned and grease free, the new paint will peel and crack in short order.
Thats a very nice looking Cafe Racer BTW!!
01-13-2012 | 09:34 AM
#32
Can You Hear Me Now??
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 102
From: Old Saybrook CT
Smith Power is building our motors. He's building naturally asperated 632 C.I. deno'ed at 746 HP and 770 torque (first motor), haven't heard results on second yet.
Brad is painting the bilge for me so I am not sure on the cleaner/degreaser he used.
We decided to just shatter our piggy bank and do full paint and dash upgrades as well.
A couple pics...
Or you can follow the whole paint via:
http://midwestboatparty.com/forum/sh...Boat-Brokerage
I hope to have more pics of paint, bilge and motors in a few weeks.
Brad is painting the bilge for me so I am not sure on the cleaner/degreaser he used.
We decided to just shatter our piggy bank and do full paint and dash upgrades as well.
A couple pics...
Or you can follow the whole paint via:
http://midwestboatparty.com/forum/sh...Boat-Brokerage
I hope to have more pics of paint, bilge and motors in a few weeks.
01-13-2012 | 09:46 AM
#33
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 173
From: Endicott, NY
http://www.streetsourceleds.com/inde...34&Category=24
Price has gone up to $32
01-13-2012 | 03:44 PM
#35
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Hey Guys. I am Sonic700's buddy. I got him these led's. I have them in my Bilge and my cockpit. Couple seasons on them now. Only real issue with them is the mounting clips are plastic, and not the greatest. I plan to replace the clips that fasten the round led tubes, with those insulated clamps, like the ones that fasten your 1 1/4" strainer hoses to the stringers. I forget what they call them, but they are available in all sizes.
The LED's from this place are super cheap, work well, and the plug in junction box is really nice. No splicing and all that stuff.
http://www.ledunderbody.com/Expandab...rior-Kits.aspx
The LED's from this place are super cheap, work well, and the plug in junction box is really nice. No splicing and all that stuff.
http://www.ledunderbody.com/Expandab...rior-Kits.aspx
Guys, when you are ready to degrease the bilge, those spray cans of engine degreaser from autozone/pep boys work well to get the heavy grease loose. Then a scrubbing with some simple green or purple power. After that, some dawn dish soap and HOT water. Once it all drys out for a few days, a wipe down with laquer thinner, paint deglosser, or acetone will prep it for some fresh paint.
Key is hot water for cleaning imo. If its not 100% cleaned and grease free, the new paint will peel and crack in short order.
Thats a very nice looking Cafe Racer BTW!!
Key is hot water for cleaning imo. If its not 100% cleaned and grease free, the new paint will peel and crack in short order.
Thats a very nice looking Cafe Racer BTW!!
They are made by Street Source. I can swear by these, they work great. Like I said my above picture has 2 and it is bright as hell. I have a white bilge FYI.
http://www.streetsourceleds.com/inde...34&Category=24
Price has gone up to $32
http://www.streetsourceleds.com/inde...34&Category=24
Price has gone up to $32
01-13-2012 | 03:47 PM
#36
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Guys need some suggestions. I'm going to be de-rigging the front of the bilge tomorrow, trim pumps, batteries, etc. What is the best way to take off the hydraulic lines to remove the trim pumps and not have the fluid leak all over the bilge? I don't want to totally remove the lines from both ends. I was just thinking to remove from the pumps and unclamp from the stringers and then tie/tape up to the top of the hatch so they are out of the way...but what's the best way to keep the fluid from leaking out? What do you guys that have done it use?
01-16-2012 | 06:12 AM
#37
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Okay well got all the pumps off and realize now my above question was stupid 
about two drops of fluid came out of one line each and about ten out of the other 
Cut me some slack, this is my first time doing this, lol. I did go a little overboard though and wrapped each line end with small pieces of paper towel and then tie wrapped the ends of the fingers of rubber gloves over them. With my luck I'd get finished painting the bilge and then hydraulic fluid would drip into the paint and I'd have to do it all over again.
Anyways, another question...there are some small areas where there is cracking, not sure exactly what it is...maybe the gel coat? It's not rot, just looks like a top coat finish that has cracked over the years. Figure I should fill it while I"m doing it and was wondering if I need to reseal it, if it's gel coat then that probably means the fiberglass is exposed right? Was just wondering what a good filler would be to use...any suggestions?
about two drops of fluid came out of one line each and about ten out of the other Cut me some slack, this is my first time doing this, lol. I did go a little overboard though and wrapped each line end with small pieces of paper towel and then tie wrapped the ends of the fingers of rubber gloves over them. With my luck I'd get finished painting the bilge and then hydraulic fluid would drip into the paint and I'd have to do it all over again.
Anyways, another question...there are some small areas where there is cracking, not sure exactly what it is...maybe the gel coat? It's not rot, just looks like a top coat finish that has cracked over the years. Figure I should fill it while I"m doing it and was wondering if I need to reseal it, if it's gel coat then that probably means the fiberglass is exposed right? Was just wondering what a good filler would be to use...any suggestions?
01-16-2012 | 12:32 PM
#38
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,812
Likes: 2
From: Paducah KY KY Lake
Okay well got all the pumps off and realize now my above question was stupid about two drops of fluid came out of one line each and about ten out of the other
Cut me some slack, this is my first time doing this, lol. I did go a little overboard though and wrapped each line end with small pieces of paper towel and then tie wrapped the ends of the fingers of rubber gloves over them. With my luck I'd get finished painting the bilge and then hydraulic fluid would drip into the paint and I'd have to do it all over again.
Anyways, another question...there are some small areas where there is cracking, not sure exactly what it is...maybe the gel coat? It's not rot, just looks like a top coat finish that has cracked over the years. Figure I should fill it while I"m doing it and was wondering if I need to reseal it, if it's gel coat then that probably means the fiberglass is exposed right? Was just wondering what a good filler would be to use...any suggestions?
about two drops of fluid came out of one line each and about ten out of the other Cut me some slack, this is my first time doing this, lol. I did go a little overboard though and wrapped each line end with small pieces of paper towel and then tie wrapped the ends of the fingers of rubber gloves over them. With my luck I'd get finished painting the bilge and then hydraulic fluid would drip into the paint and I'd have to do it all over again.
Anyways, another question...there are some small areas where there is cracking, not sure exactly what it is...maybe the gel coat? It's not rot, just looks like a top coat finish that has cracked over the years. Figure I should fill it while I"m doing it and was wondering if I need to reseal it, if it's gel coat then that probably means the fiberglass is exposed right? Was just wondering what a good filler would be to use...any suggestions?
01-17-2012 | 11:59 AM
#39
Platinum Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,288
Likes: 87
From: New Jersey
For your LED lights, I have a few suggestions.
C-Spray has a trick set up with both clear and colored LED strips to both accent and actually light up the bilge.
BOJO - "Bazooka" Joe on OSO is one of the owners of OPTX Marine LEDs and they are top notch pieces.
http://www.optxmarine.com/optxmarine/index.html
Lastly, if you want red, LED truck lights work awesome and cheap.
C-Spray has a trick set up with both clear and colored LED strips to both accent and actually light up the bilge.
BOJO - "Bazooka" Joe on OSO is one of the owners of OPTX Marine LEDs and they are top notch pieces.
http://www.optxmarine.com/optxmarine/index.html
Lastly, if you want red, LED truck lights work awesome and cheap.
01-18-2012 | 10:27 AM
#40
Charter Mod
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 6,551
Likes: 3
From: E Dock
A couple pics...
Or you can follow the whole paint via:
http://midwestboatparty.com/forum/sh...Boat-Brokerage
I hope to have more pics of paint, bilge and motors in a few weeks.
Or you can follow the whole paint via:
http://midwestboatparty.com/forum/sh...Boat-Brokerage
I hope to have more pics of paint, bilge and motors in a few weeks.
