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Originally Posted by Doug
(Post 4302934)
Looks like your coming along very well. I can't tell from the pic using my phone but this look like a Holley carb. You might want to go on ebay and replace those vent tubes with J tubes. Holley won't sell them to you unless you send them the carbs so they can verify there marine carbs. You will make the coast guard very happy if they decide to check and they see them. Hope this link works.
http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Ho...erator++j+tube |
J tubes are not required.
Hey Tim. I was thinking about your oil cooler plumbing and how you don't plan to run a thermostatic bypass. Maybe an inexpensive and effective way to modulate the oil flow through the cooler would be to plumb full flow ball valve in the system as a bypass. You may find that during the spring, when the lake is cold, you would bypass more oil around the cooler and as the lake warms, you would close the valve more and push more oil through the cooler. I'm assuming you have an oil temp gauge and could monitor what effect varying the manual bypass valve was having. Probably could plumb the two engines for under a hundred bucks and have the ability to really dial in your oil temp. |
1 Attachment(s)
Oil system is done, I have a new issue now to figure out wtf is going on....
[ATTACH=CONFIG]540943[/ATTACH] |
Going by the photo, That's about the distance when the dist and cam gears line up, but the slot on dist shaft isn't going into the slot in the oil pump pushrod.
Did I win the guess ? |
Hopefully its simple and the block doesn't need more machine work... Its good practice to test fit distributors in new blocks before the machine work is done.
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Originally Posted by mmb
(Post 4303168)
Hopefully its simple and the block doesn't need more machine work... Its good practice to test fit distributors in new blocks before the machine work is done.
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Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4303141)
Going by the photo, That's about the distance when the dist and cam gears line up, but the slot on dist shaft isn't going into the slot in the oil pump pushrod.
Did I win the guess ? |
after discussion with a couple guys I need to make the right shim, I think the intakes were milled in the past of the pro comp heads that I had raised it, that's the only thing that makes sense...
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Originally Posted by vintage chromoly
(Post 4303078)
J tubes are not required.
Hey Tim. I was thinking about your oil cooler plumbing and how you don't plan to run a thermostatic bypass. Maybe an inexpensive and effective way to modulate the oil flow through the cooler would be to plumb full flow ball valve in the system as a bypass. You may find that during the spring, when the lake is cold, you would bypass more oil around the cooler and as the lake warms, you would close the valve more and push more oil through the cooler. I'm assuming you have an oil temp gauge and could monitor what effect varying the manual bypass valve was having. Probably could plumb the two engines for under a hundred bucks and have the ability to really dial in your oil temp. |
Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 4303185)
That pic is with gear removed....
You didn't mention if the dist slot is in the oil pump shaft slot. If they are, do you have the wrong oil pump shaft in there by any chance ? I believe ARP has a longer shaft for raised cam blocks. If this is used by mistake, it would probably cause something likewhat you are running into to. By the photo, it looks like you have lots of room between the dist collar and intake. |
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