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Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4303219)
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You didn't mention if the dist slot is in the oil pump shaft slot. If they are, do you have the wrong oil pump shaft in there by any chance ? I believe ARP has a longer shaft for raised cam blocks. If this is used by mistake, it would probably cause something likewhat you are running into to. By the photo, it looks like you have lots of room between the dist collar and intake. |
FYI, ARE you using new or the ones from the Scarab? doofus had new gears made....
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Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 4303206)
I wont have oil temp issues, I just beat on it more!!!
Kinda nice to have oil temp BEFORE the sticks get pushed all the way forward. On my little micro boat with no cooler, It took forever to get heat in the oil ( 20+ minutes at 2500 rpm to get to 180 oil temp) THEN we would run the snot out of it (ask billy). Temps would get to 225. As soon as I got off the gas and returned to a 3000-3500 rpm cruise, the oil temp would come right back down below 190. This was with no oil cooler and a fresh water cooling system. Not busting your balls and I know you have other concerns at present. Just trying to help man. |
Originally Posted by Scarab3DMC
(Post 4303244)
FYI, ARE you using new or the ones from the Scarab? doofus had new gears made....
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Originally Posted by vintage chromoly
(Post 4303251)
I know you like to run It hard Tim. :boat::boat:
Kinda nice to have oil temp BEFORE the sticks get pushed all the way forward. On my little micro boat with no cooler, It took forever to get heat in the oil ( 20+ minutes at 2500 rpm to get to 180 oil temp) THEN we would run the snot out of it (ask billy). Temps would get to 225. As soon as I got off the gas and returned to a 3000-3500 rpm cruise, the oil temp would come right back down below 190. This was with no oil cooler and a fresh water cooling system. Not busting your balls and I know you have other concerns at present. Just trying to help man. |
Sounds like you need to mill a tiny bit off the bottom of the distributor gear collar that goes around oil pump shaft. I bet its hitting the block...
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Originally Posted by mmb
(Post 4303284)
Sounds like you need to mill a tiny bit off the bottom of the distributor gear collar that goes around oil pump shaft. I bet its hitting the block...
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The only time I'd consider NOT running an oil thermostat, is if I was running a water thermostat. If no water stat, I def want oil stats.
The water thermostat will help build a little heat in the oil without an oil thermostat. Most stock merc engines were setup that way. That distributor issue sucks. I'd be very cautious on that, and want to know why that is like that. I can't see it being because your old setup was milled. I've put intakes on heads that were milled ALOT, and never had a gap like that with a std deck deal. How did the intake bolt holes line up? |
Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4303307)
The only time I'd consider NOT running an oil thermostat, is if I was running a water thermostat. If no water stat, I def want oil stats.
The water thermostat will help build a little heat in the oil without an oil thermostat. Most stock merc engines were setup that way. That distributor issue sucks. I'd be very cautious on that, and want to know why that is like that. I can't see it being because your old setup was milled. I've put intakes on heads that were milled ALOT, and never had a gap like that with a std deck deal. How did the intake bolt holes line up? An odd issue... |
Talked to dart and also msd, they seem to think the distributor mount on intake was milled for god only knows what reason, but that does not answer my question of why it was not issue last year? Unless the pro comp heads pushed the intake up higher somehow... I have now stumped, myself, Scott, mild thunder, mike t, my machine shop, msd and also dart.... The general consensus is to shim distributor and check oil shaft and teeth engagement...
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