Mistress repower #2 begins....
05-11-2015 | 11:54 AM
#301
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,688
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From: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
Looks like your coming along very well. I can't tell from the pic using my phone but this look like a Holley carb. You might want to go on ebay and replace those vent tubes with J tubes. Holley won't sell them to you unless you send them the carbs so they can verify there marine carbs. You will make the coast guard very happy if they decide to check and they see them. Hope this link works.
http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Ho...erator++j+tube
http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Ho...erator++j+tube
05-11-2015 | 04:44 PM
#302
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,643
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From: cleveland ohio
J tubes are not required.
Hey Tim. I was thinking about your oil cooler plumbing and how you don't plan to run a thermostatic bypass.
Maybe an inexpensive and effective way to modulate the oil flow through the cooler would be to plumb full flow ball valve in the system as a bypass.
You may find that during the spring, when the lake is cold, you would bypass more oil around the cooler and as the lake warms, you would close the valve more and push more oil through the cooler.
I'm assuming you have an oil temp gauge and could monitor what effect varying the manual bypass valve was having.
Probably could plumb the two engines for under a hundred bucks and have the ability to really dial in your oil temp.
Hey Tim. I was thinking about your oil cooler plumbing and how you don't plan to run a thermostatic bypass.
Maybe an inexpensive and effective way to modulate the oil flow through the cooler would be to plumb full flow ball valve in the system as a bypass.
You may find that during the spring, when the lake is cold, you would bypass more oil around the cooler and as the lake warms, you would close the valve more and push more oil through the cooler.
I'm assuming you have an oil temp gauge and could monitor what effect varying the manual bypass valve was having.
Probably could plumb the two engines for under a hundred bucks and have the ability to really dial in your oil temp.
05-11-2015 | 08:43 PM
#306
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,688
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From: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
we did, it's like the distributor is too long, or the intake is too low... very hard to explain... the distributor is going too far into block, no machining would matter for that issue...
05-11-2015 | 08:44 PM
#307
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From: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
05-11-2015 | 09:37 PM
#308
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,688
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From: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
after discussion with a couple guys I need to make the right shim, I think the intakes were milled in the past of the pro comp heads that I had raised it, that's the only thing that makes sense...
05-11-2015 | 09:43 PM
#309
Thread Starter
Gold Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,688
Likes: 216
From: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
J tubes are not required.
Hey Tim. I was thinking about your oil cooler plumbing and how you don't plan to run a thermostatic bypass.
Maybe an inexpensive and effective way to modulate the oil flow through the cooler would be to plumb full flow ball valve in the system as a bypass.
You may find that during the spring, when the lake is cold, you would bypass more oil around the cooler and as the lake warms, you would close the valve more and push more oil through the cooler.
I'm assuming you have an oil temp gauge and could monitor what effect varying the manual bypass valve was having.
Probably could plumb the two engines for under a hundred bucks and have the ability to really dial in your oil temp.
Hey Tim. I was thinking about your oil cooler plumbing and how you don't plan to run a thermostatic bypass.
Maybe an inexpensive and effective way to modulate the oil flow through the cooler would be to plumb full flow ball valve in the system as a bypass.
You may find that during the spring, when the lake is cold, you would bypass more oil around the cooler and as the lake warms, you would close the valve more and push more oil through the cooler.
I'm assuming you have an oil temp gauge and could monitor what effect varying the manual bypass valve was having.
Probably could plumb the two engines for under a hundred bucks and have the ability to really dial in your oil temp.
05-11-2015 | 10:34 PM
#310
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,090
Likes: 3,681
From: On A Dirt Floor
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You didn't mention if the dist slot is in the oil pump shaft slot.
If they are, do you have the wrong oil pump shaft in there by any chance ? I believe ARP has a longer shaft for raised cam blocks. If this is used by mistake, it would probably cause something likewhat you are running into to.
By the photo, it looks like you have lots of room between the dist collar and intake.
You didn't mention if the dist slot is in the oil pump shaft slot.
If they are, do you have the wrong oil pump shaft in there by any chance ? I believe ARP has a longer shaft for raised cam blocks. If this is used by mistake, it would probably cause something likewhat you are running into to.
By the photo, it looks like you have lots of room between the dist collar and intake.
Last edited by SB; 05-11-2015 at 10:37 PM.
