any idea of water pressure? I need to address getting heat into engines just for assurance...

The same shop that did tim's machine work machined my stuff too.
We installed .904 diameter solid morel lifters in bronze bushed bores.
He wouldn't touch my stuff until I had the liters in his hands. In fact, morel sent an engineer down to victory engines during the process to ensure proper setup.

It's stuff like this that makes me appreciate custom assembled pieces on this type of engine. ( same reason I recommended CFM during the carb thread $hit storm. Don't think that ANY company is immune to a bad apple slipping through qc regardless of how many "box" products perform without trouble)

I should have bought used 420's and called it a turn key day !!! I hope this all pans out and I get some enjoyment!

I think closed cooling would be beneficial in cold water boating on the Great Lakes. A big expense to add on after the fact but might be worth considering at some point.

Tons of boats not using it, clearances just need to be right, of the anal things we did cover we missed how important it really is, let my lesson be one to others.

Tim, I run basically this same setup and my water pressure is 35-38 at 5200 RPM. I know that's high but I've had no problems so far. I do plan on installing pressure relief valves to reduce the pressure. I'm also going to drill and tap my intake at the rear water passages and install bleed lines there to prevent and steam pockets just to be on the safe side.

Yes, do this.

Since you have 35-38psi max , it;s possible by just installing those rear dump lines your psi will come down to where you want.

I have well over 200 hours on my motors with no major problems but you'll never convince me that the rear of the engine gets the same cooling/circulation as the front when running crossovers without recirculating pumps. Hopefully the bleeds will help with this as well as lowering the pressure.

You can keep saying this is a good shop all you want. A GOOD machine shop wouldn't have let him build these engines the way he did because it was al-qaeda training in a boat meaning he was building bombs... A good machine shop would have sat his blocks in the corner and said we will start on them when you have all the parts...

Not machine to an unknown spec and hope it all works out because he didnt have the parts to measure. A good shop would have insisted on seeing his heads and going through them. This engine failure was just as much the machine shops fault as it was his...

I hope you know what your doing on the next go around because your machine shop sure as hell aint looking out for you....

I have pulled my engines out of extreamly well known shops that everyone ball washes on here because of this same stupidity.... This build thread is a perfect example of what some of these quality shops give you, and if you lack the knowledge to make sure there doing it right you get to spend double the money to do it again...

my shop is just fine he did what I asked them to do simple as that The lifter also does not come out of the bore but it is not stuck in the bore it will move therefore was it really a lifter or not or was it a combination of a couple things