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FIXX 01-17-2015 01:29 PM


Originally Posted by zombiescustoms (Post 4249495)
It's a 32 Tudor with 61k original miles that I built about 3 years ago, a pre 1953 parts, running a Merc flatty a 39 bango and Lincoln trans.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...s/IMAG0987.jpg

and this is my 32 all Henry steel roadster that was built in '64 as a hotrod.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...Chesharley.jpg

I have a bunch of other old junk as well
1953 Hudson Hornet
1960 Cadillac Convertible
1970 Harley Electra Glide

plz share a pic of the caddy..thanx..

zombiescustoms 01-21-2015 12:43 PM

My Cadillac with my old mans 55

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pseb6edc97.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps2d7c8db6.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps0cdbf581.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps0bcd3af0.jpg

113cv 01-21-2015 01:49 PM

Nice collection!!

thisistank 01-21-2015 03:01 PM


Originally Posted by Doug (Post 4249260)
I agree with Mark 100% Boost gauges are how I run my T/G. When your out cruising and want to conserve fuel run negative boost or on the vacuum side. 0 and higher you are opening up you vacuum secondary unless your running mechanical and really starting to dump fuel. I run different props depending on water conditions or if I'm out to play so no matter what I run the same thing goes.
They are a very handy tool and once you learn to use them you will never go without.

Good luck on your project and remember Do it right the first time so you don't have to redo it. It looks very nice.

Doug


QUOTE=MrCIG;4238817]I would leave the vacuum / boost gauges. They are a tell tail when things start going bad in your engine. I know where mine should be and one was off a little. I caught a failing valve before it took out the whole motor.

Mark

[/QUOTE]


Couldn't agree more with this.

Phil Lipschutz told me once while pointing at the boost gauge, "that's the money gauge". So true. The higher it is the more money you'll spend. Lol

And it was the boost gauge on my motor that told me I sucked a valve. It was bouncing all over the place. Motor was still running "fine" except for the boost gauge.

My .02. Keep the boost gauge in eye sight!!!

Interceptor 01-21-2015 03:59 PM

Those Cadillac quarter panels have more steel in them than many of todays cars complete bodywork.

Full Force 01-21-2015 04:38 PM

LOve old Caddy's, looks like a 56?? next to it? maybe 55....I think 56 had vent at bottom of the windshield...not the 55 Chevy, the yellow caddy haha


zombiescustoms 01-22-2015 06:46 AM


Originally Posted by Full Force (Post 4253706)
LOve old Caddy's, looks like a 56?? next to it? maybe 55....I think 56 had vent at bottom of the windshield...not the 55 Chevy, the yellow caddy haha

yes '56, fleetwood

Full Force 01-22-2015 11:35 AM


Originally Posted by zombiescustoms (Post 4254033)
yes '56, fleetwood

Still know my Caddy's lol not many my age would have a clue....

zombiescustoms 01-31-2015 11:51 AM

So I have started tearing the rotted interior wood apart, going to pretty much replace everything, here is what the rear seat looks like
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psyooxg2j3.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psmkg9bxtt.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psp8xnojbq.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psxvqmkbht.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psz2arhfev.jpg

kreed 02-02-2015 07:01 AM


Originally Posted by Doug (Post 4249260)
I agree with Mark 100% Boost gauges are how I run my T/G. When your out cruising and want to conserve fuel run negative boost or on the vacuum side. 0 and higher you are opening up you vacuum secondary unless your running mechanical and really starting to dump fuel.

Mark

[/QUOTE


I hope nobody with blower motors in a boat is running carbs with vacuum secondaries!


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