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Old 12-18-2014 | 09:29 PM
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mmb
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Originally Posted by Bino
excuse my ignorance, but do you by chance have a pic that would show me what it takes to replace? One gauge is on half of tank when I run out and the other on a quarter tank. Will fuel senders solve that problem?
More than likely it's the fuel sender. Just need to make sure your gauges have a full sweep and not getting stuck. There is a picture of them installed here. Mine was doing the same thing, I installed new gauges and senders.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/c...ml#post4025033
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Old 12-18-2014 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
Also Livorsi sells em in 1" increments for $65 ish
Still wouldn't have known what length to make them for the gauges to work accurately! I will pay a few extra dollars for Phil's knowledge!!!
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Old 12-18-2014 | 10:12 PM
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bino.. just pull the center plastic cover in your bilge... youll see the top of the fuel sender.. un plug. take the 8? bolts out. take out old sender. replace.
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Old 12-18-2014 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mmb
Still wouldn't have known what length to make them for the gauges to work accurately! I will pay a few extra dollars for Phil's knowledge!!!
I~m confused, you mean telling you to make it an inch shorter?
Yes that Phil guy is a wizard, since the pickup is right next to the sender making an inch shorter will leave some gas in the tank when it shows empty. Who would have thought!
Personally , I like to know exactly how much gas I have. When mine says empty... its empty, when it`s 1/4 tank... it`s 1/4 tank.
He told me my #4 drive is all wrong for my boat, that it`s a racing drive only, he couldn`t wrap his head around why I`m running a # 4. I was a bit confused about that.
Nice guy thou.
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Old 12-19-2014 | 05:09 AM
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I just re-read my notes it was more like 3" shorter maybe a little more! It's something I never thought of and I like the way it works now much better! Who would have thought... I damn sure didn't. Obviously you don't know either because you would have corrected my 1" statement jackass.

I can see him not liking 4's or any of the dinosaur drives. None of the guys like them old drives don't matter who you talk to. I had a whole table of boat racers drivers/throttle men at key west say NO at the same time when I said I was thinkng about putting 5's on my boat. They all said leave the Konrads on.

I'm trying to be nice in This thread but your ego is getting the best of you bro. By the way your tank is not 1/4 tank when your gauge shows 1/4 tank because they angle.. your really on empty.

I'm sure you will have some smart ass reply tipicle of all the other train wrecks you post in...

One more thing the network I made with Phil at LipShip from buying a set of senders is unbelievable. The guy went out of his way and helped me get my boat going again when we broke a trim line in key west for free! That day he spent 3-4 hours rounding up the parts we needed to fix our boat so we could enjoy Key West! I owe him an entire vacation for what he did for us!

Who gives a **** if you can save $100 on senders... I wouldn't expect you to understand that though.
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Old 12-19-2014 | 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mmb

I can see him not liking 4's or any of the dinosaur drives. None of the guys like them old drives don't matter who you talk to. I had a whole table of boat racers drivers/throttle men at key west say NO at the same time when I said I was thinkng about putting 5's on my boat. They all said leave the Konrads on.
.
I'll take a SSM 4/5 over a Konrad any day. Many old FAST big power Cigs, Fountains, Apaches, Cougars, etc had them on them. Heck the original 90mph Top Gun came with them. Dinosaur? As compared to what, the great modern Bravo drives? The Konrad?

The great thing about the 4/5 drives, is that being shorter, they allow you to run a high propshaft height, while lowering the engines in the hull, which results in a better balanced and handling boat.

Much of the #6 drive internal design is very similar to the 4/5 and 3/3A setup. With twin vertical shafts, 1.750 propshafts, big straight cut gears, they are a very stout drive.

I hope you have better luck in the long run with your Konrads than my buddy who had a 90 Top Gun with 800's did. He got a whopping 20/25 hours out of them before they took a dump. As far as rough water handling goes, I'll take a 17/18'' cleaver propped boat over a boat spinning some 15'' round ears anyday.

As far as the old racers go, I've talked to several, who LOVED the old SSM III/IV/V drives, and raced successfully with them. I would not attempt running like this with Konrads. Just my opinion, since you insulted my dinosaur drives lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niwjMgDl02k
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Old 12-19-2014 | 06:13 AM
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These weren't old racers. They were the current racers racing at Key West. We were testing water conditions for some of the racers so they could set there boat up. We would make a couple laps around the track about an hour before the race. They would then dump/add fuel or reprop depending what the water conditions were like.

I agree the twin verticle shaft old school drives are stronger than Konrads but they all still said keep the Konrads. They had absolutely zero love for them old drives.
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Old 12-19-2014 | 06:23 AM
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The option they suggested were in this order. Imco SCX up to 700hp. Konrads because my boat is rigged for it. Anything else use number 6 drive or if I up my power level switch to number 6.

My boat is rigged for 3a's and I could easily swap back to a 3,4,5 drive but they still said no way in hell they would do that.
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Old 12-19-2014 | 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mmb
More than likely it's the fuel sender. Just need to make sure your gauges have a full sweep and not getting stuck. There is a picture of them installed here. Mine was doing the same thing, I installed new gauges and senders.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/c...ml#post4025033
Thank you mmb, I will give Phil a call he has always been helpful to me.
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Old 12-19-2014 | 08:08 AM
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I'll text you guys my opinion as not to start a sh!t storm on here lol
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