Length of travel for hatch "roller"
#11
Trying to design a simple mount for the Lift Arm under the Hatch. Can anyone measure what the length of travel is on a center mount factory roller setup? I need to determine how long to make the mount and I do not have anything available at the moment to measure. Easiest would be to measure the witness marks on the channel under the hatch where the wheel goes back and forth.
Need minimum dimension in picture below, hatch closed / hatch extended. .
[ATTACH=CONFIG]537004[/ATTACH]
Need minimum dimension in picture below, hatch closed / hatch extended. .
[ATTACH=CONFIG]537004[/ATTACH]
like based on the pivot point location of your pivot arm.
if your doing custom Fab, or custom cnc billet... You might be better suited
to mock a few concepts up with wood and figure all your pivot points
then take it to the next level.
Jon
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#12
If you have CAD software you can automate the motion and build to suit very easy.
What software are you using.
Jon
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#13
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
i still have the old slide and the travel is 6 and 1/4" (actual slot length 6 and 5/8th) and both side of the hatch where they will mount are flat and linear from front to back and about thre inches wide so they and bolt anywhere (pretty much exactly like the 39's) Also the original slot length worked for the flat hatch as well as the 575 hatch so nine inches should be plenty of throw. If you use the same basic dimension (arm length and such) of the one mounted in the center all should work good
#14
I'll see if i can flip it over an get a pic but the area where the lift arm will mount is unchanged, it is essentially a stock 575 Cig hatch. You probably wont need much of a spacer either maybe couple inches at the most possible a riser block, the stock arm has enough throw to compensate for the different height. On all the boats that I've put them on i didn't notice any difference in opened height, if memory serves the factory ram puts the hatch nearly straight up if you limit it out so there was plenty of lee-way.
I can come out in a couple weeks, XT works to if need be Dave is doing some stuff for me at the moment as well and i have to.go down to select some colors. Great to hear both motors and the boat are finally all in the same building, i think this could be your year
I can come out in a couple weeks, XT works to if need be Dave is doing some stuff for me at the moment as well and i have to.go down to select some colors. Great to hear both motors and the boat are finally all in the same building, i think this could be your year
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#15
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,029
Likes: 510
From: Cleveland, Ohio
I'll see if i can flip it over an get a pic but the area where the lift arm will mount is unchanged, it is essentially a stock 575 Cig hatch. You probably wont need much of a spacer either maybe couple inches at the most possible a riser block, the stock arm has enough throw to compensate for the different height. On all the boats that I've put them on i didn't notice any difference in opened height, if memory serves the factory ram puts the hatch nearly straight up if you limit it out so there was plenty of lee-way.
I can come out in a couple weeks, XT works to if need be Dave is doing some stuff for me at the moment as well and i have to.go down to select some colors. Great to hear both motors and the boat are finally all in the same building, i think this could be your year
I can come out in a couple weeks, XT works to if need be Dave is doing some stuff for me at the moment as well and i have to.go down to select some colors. Great to hear both motors and the boat are finally all in the same building, i think this could be your year

Oh yeah, new manifolds and plumbing complete, time to drop it in???
[ATTACH=CONFIG]537269[/ATTACH]
#16
Nice! Eikert Exhaust. I had a boat with those once they are fantastic but in a single it had an odd problem (i thought anyway) I thought they sounded like an old pickup with the muffler off (from the cockpit), had someone take it out and buz by while i waited on shore and they sounded flippin awesome (really awesome). For some reason they just sounded odd (in that boat) from the cockpit 
hey, you can hardly see the cool artwork on the valve covers lol

hey, you can hardly see the cool artwork on the valve covers lol
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#17
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,029
Likes: 510
From: Cleveland, Ohio
I would love to have tubular stainless exhaust (true headers), but I like the reliability of these, plus I needed the clearance. I think it may be the equal length tubes that makes them sound good (maybe odd from inside). See ya soon.
#18
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
OK, got the assembly machined and dropping it in the mail off to XT. Coming up to the finish line, this is where everything "falls into place", right?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]542475[/ATTACH]
All Aluminum with 316ss rod, fasteners and snap rings, etc. Stuff adds up quick. Mount machines from 3" x 3" x 16.5" Al and slider block was something I had in the shop (Al). Turned the Nylon slider bushing and added a snap ring groove, looks pretty clean without cotter pins or thru bolts, etc.
I made a drawing if anyone is interested in making their own. They cost too much to re-sell, way too much....
I will post a pic once all is installed, and one with me on the water!!!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]542475[/ATTACH]
All Aluminum with 316ss rod, fasteners and snap rings, etc. Stuff adds up quick. Mount machines from 3" x 3" x 16.5" Al and slider block was something I had in the shop (Al). Turned the Nylon slider bushing and added a snap ring groove, looks pretty clean without cotter pins or thru bolts, etc.
I made a drawing if anyone is interested in making their own. They cost too much to re-sell, way too much....
I will post a pic once all is installed, and one with me on the water!!!
Last edited by frickstyle; 06-25-2015 at 02:14 PM.
#19
OK, got the assembly machined and dropping it in the mail off to XT. Coming up to the finish line, this is where everything "falls into place", right?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]542475[/ATTACH]
All Aluminum with 316ss rod, fasteners and snap rings, etc. Stuff adds up quick. Mount machines from 3" x 3" x 16.5" Al and slider block was something I had in the shop (Al). Turned the Nylon slider bushing and added a snap ring groove, looks pretty clean without cotter pins or thru bolts, etc.
I made a drawing if anyone is interested in making their own. They cost too much to re-sell, way too much....
I will post a pic once all is installed, and one with me on the water!!!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]542475[/ATTACH]
All Aluminum with 316ss rod, fasteners and snap rings, etc. Stuff adds up quick. Mount machines from 3" x 3" x 16.5" Al and slider block was something I had in the shop (Al). Turned the Nylon slider bushing and added a snap ring groove, looks pretty clean without cotter pins or thru bolts, etc.
I made a drawing if anyone is interested in making their own. They cost too much to re-sell, way too much....
I will post a pic once all is installed, and one with me on the water!!!
#20
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,029
Likes: 510
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Zero, I will send it. Another member machined the lift arm to look like the new ones also, kinda pricey, I do not have a pic of that.
Also, I changed a couple minor things, I will update the drawing and send it. Also, let me make sure this works, I'm a little nervous on the "twist" it may experience because this is a single lift point, where as the new ones have one each side. Does your staggered setup use two arms???
One more thing, I set the "throw" for about 7.5", you may require more depending on how long your arms are and where they pivot. Easy adjustment to make, just lengthen the base and rod.
Also, I changed a couple minor things, I will update the drawing and send it. Also, let me make sure this works, I'm a little nervous on the "twist" it may experience because this is a single lift point, where as the new ones have one each side. Does your staggered setup use two arms???
One more thing, I set the "throw" for about 7.5", you may require more depending on how long your arms are and where they pivot. Easy adjustment to make, just lengthen the base and rod.



