Cafe racer stereo.
#21
87CigCafe,
If you can remove the panel.....
Use a router to cut the hole through the panel from behind without cutting the vinyl. Try and suspend the area you're cutting over open air so you're not pushing the vinyl and padding toward the cutter. You might even stop just short of cutting all the way through and finish with a utility knife. Then you can cut slits in the vinyl from the center to just short of the hole in the panel, making triangles that you can stretch around behind the panel and staple. This will keep the vinyl tight. While I've never done it, I've seen it done and it works great.
As for subs, I'm a full-throated advocate of Bazooka tubes. They are self-contained, relatively compact and sound great. They have passive and several levels of powered models. I have an 8" tube, the lower powered model, tucked into the gunwale pocket in our PQ that takes up zero space I can actually use, and it will run us out if I crank it.
Thanks. Brad.
If you can remove the panel.....
Use a router to cut the hole through the panel from behind without cutting the vinyl. Try and suspend the area you're cutting over open air so you're not pushing the vinyl and padding toward the cutter. You might even stop just short of cutting all the way through and finish with a utility knife. Then you can cut slits in the vinyl from the center to just short of the hole in the panel, making triangles that you can stretch around behind the panel and staple. This will keep the vinyl tight. While I've never done it, I've seen it done and it works great.
As for subs, I'm a full-throated advocate of Bazooka tubes. They are self-contained, relatively compact and sound great. They have passive and several levels of powered models. I have an 8" tube, the lower powered model, tucked into the gunwale pocket in our PQ that takes up zero space I can actually use, and it will run us out if I crank it.
Thanks. Brad.
#22
lol obviously, motor music isn’t the only music you need to hear! Nice set up.
#24
Registered

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,093
Likes: 165
From: King george, Virginia/Potomac River
In my old boat (25 Checkmate) I had 4 speakers and two subs in the cockpit area powered by 2 amps. One for the 4 speakers and one for the subs.
I also had 2 low quality speakers in the cabin that were wired directly to the head unit (no amp). I had a toggle switch next to the head unit that, using the amps trigger wires, would turn the amps on or off. If we were overnighting or just relaxing in the cabin, I could turn the amps off and it killed everything except the cabin speakers. The low volume sounded just fine and we didn't annoy everyone else at the dock. This also saved the batteries and could run music all night. With the amps on, if we had it cranked up for outside music, I didn't care what the speakers in the cabin sounded like and let the shake rattle and... distort.
When its time for the Bullet music system, I'm gonna do the same.
I also had 2 low quality speakers in the cabin that were wired directly to the head unit (no amp). I had a toggle switch next to the head unit that, using the amps trigger wires, would turn the amps on or off. If we were overnighting or just relaxing in the cabin, I could turn the amps off and it killed everything except the cabin speakers. The low volume sounded just fine and we didn't annoy everyone else at the dock. This also saved the batteries and could run music all night. With the amps on, if we had it cranked up for outside music, I didn't care what the speakers in the cabin sounded like and let the shake rattle and... distort.
When its time for the Bullet music system, I'm gonna do the same.
#25
Ok does anybody have a set up for when your sitting on the water though. I love to listen to music when we are at the beach/sand bar but if you have it loud enough to hear in the water its WAY too loud for anyone to sit on the boat. I was thinking of just a remote set to put on the swim deck or even a pair of wakeboard tower speakers you could take on and off. I don't need it to be concert level loud just enough so you can listen behind the boat and still be in the boat with the same volume.
#26
VIP Member

Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 3,487
Likes: 2,117
From: SW Ohio
You won't want to confine it. I initially strapped mine down in the engine well, tucked into the back corner, out of the way. It sounded decent in the boat, but made everything rattle. They've got to breathe. Even if there is plenty of passageway for the sound to escape, it will sound like crap.


Thanks. Brad.
Last edited by Brad Christy; 02-13-2025 at 03:55 PM.
#27
Ok does anybody have a set up for when your sitting on the water though. I love to listen to music when we are at the beach/sand bar but if you have it loud enough to hear in the water its WAY too loud for anyone to sit on the boat. I was thinking of just a remote set to put on the swim deck or even a pair of wakeboard tower speakers you could take on and off. I don't need it to be concert level loud just enough so you can listen behind the boat and still be in the boat with the same volume.

Carter did these in a cafe. This still is from a video. The hatches were on an electric ram. Push the button at the helm and they open up. Bad azz design. Speakers out front for when you’re beached.
as far as off the transom I’ve seen people run wire they can pull from under the seat to hook to pod speakers they’ll grab out of the cabin and set on the swim step. Not glamorous but works. I’ve also seen people in havasu perma mount speakers on the transom. Im
not a fan. The two 6.5 up
high on the dash of our gun actually help
carry the sound out or the boat and down to the water when you’re floating off the swim step. I wouldn’t have put them
there but they’re there and they actually work.
#28
Registered

Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 866
Likes: 253
From: Portland, OR
My go to though was JL Subs, MB Quart mids and highs pushed by Precision Power amps. This was before stereo companies were offering all components (subs, components, amps, receivers, etc). So, you had to piece out your systems. And I still believe the best system is built not package purchased. I don't think each big brand builds the best everything. I think each have some great products and some OK products. Running German Maestro marine speakers in the gun. It came with the current system. 6 sets of the GM 6.5 coaxle speakers and 2 12" GM subs under the rear seat in separate enclosures.
My current boat has JL 7.7's and my last one had 8.8's. If space were permitting, I'd 100% go with the 8.8's they are amazing IF powered correctly and you don't need a lot of them as with the smaller sizes.
#29
Funny I always ran Alpine heads, MB Quart separates, Phoenix gold amps and JL subs. Sounds like we have similar winning tastes in audio lol. In case you weren't aware, when MB Quart sold out the original MB guys started German Maestro so the story goes. I still have OG MB quarts Q series separates in two of my trucks. Always wondered if the Maestro stuff mirrored the quality of the OG Quarts since I've never known anyone to own any.
My current boat has JL 7.7's and my last one had 8.8's. If space were permitting, I'd 100% go with the 8.8's they are amazing IF powered correctly and you don't need a lot of them as with the smaller sizes.
My current boat has JL 7.7's and my last one had 8.8's. If space were permitting, I'd 100% go with the 8.8's they are amazing IF powered correctly and you don't need a lot of them as with the smaller sizes.
ive actually not had the opportunity to
really crank the GM’s or even fine tune the system. Mostly because I’m not a fan of the older Sony head unit it has. Not impressed. I’m changing it out this season. I’d like to get a JL MM105 head unit. lol then plan on putting a smaller garmin unit in the dash above the cabin where the current remote is. So stupid it’s there.
speaking of good stuff, I always liked Focal too. Crisp, clean LOUD sound.
Last edited by thisistank; 02-13-2025 at 06:39 PM.
#30
If you can remove the panel.....
Use a router to cut the hole through the panel from behind without cutting the vinyl. Try and suspend the area you're cutting over open air so you're not pushing the vinyl and padding toward the cutter. You might even stop just short of cutting all the way through and finish with a utility knife. Then you can cut slits in the vinyl from the center to just short of the hole in the panel, making triangles that you can stretch around behind the panel and staple. This will keep the vinyl tight. While I've never done it, I've seen it done and it works great.



