No harm in using the bi-axial mat with the resin though right?

I really want to make sure it is nice and strong!!!

Thanks
Jim

Jim,

For your hatch, the strongest application (I would use) is to match the best suggested glass with the proper resin. Hence, Epoxy resin/Bi-axle glass without mat....Vinylester resin/Bi-axle glass with mat.......I think these are the best combinations to use for laminating. Can you use epoxy & 1708?..........I think (like Dave said) in a pinch yes, but there's a definite reason to stick with the recomemded pairings......I remember something about the bindings in 1708 & using Epoxy isn't the best suited???........Dave???

Yep, you should try to avoid using any laminates with mat in an epoxy system. They tend to be very hard to balance properly and will be very resin rich which translates into heavier weaker lay ups. The stitched mat and bi ax is ok in a pinch but the raw chop strand mat cannot be used because of the binder, 1708's mat does not have a binder. For something like this I would probably use a vinylester it's gonna work faster and you don't really give up that much strength. Finishing epoxy is a Pain in the azz if your not bagging.

All my materials have arrived and all the prep work is done to the wood. The next step is to fiberglass it! Any final pointers??

The glassing starts tomorrow!

Top side is done! Tonight or tomorrow I will do the bottom. It was tricky to get the glass to wrap around the edge of the board and stick to the bottom. I had resin running down my arms from working upside down! What a mess but I am happy with the results so far!

Ready for some more resin!

Jim,

Why does the box frame (you built on top of ply sheet) not extend out to the corners of the plywood?...........Also, if you haven't already, fillet all the corners with a hull & deck putty. 1708 doesn't like sharp bends..........looks like you making good progress......nice job!

Thanks for the compliment! It is all glassed (finished it Friday afternoon)

The 1708 did very well in the tight corners. It helped to have the right rollers. I bought the corner roller and the small roller used to remove air bubbles. Huge difference!!

We tested the strength today. Had it supported just along the two edges and had me and my buddy (close to 400lbs) stand on the cover and it didn't move at all!

The reason the box doesn't go out to the edge of the plywood is because of interference with the manifold risers. The vertical box will land just to the inside of the outside risers directly over the valve covers. (see picture below)

My next question is what do I paint it with? Top side is not that important because it will be totally covered with a hatch pad but the bottom side needs to look good! I am thinking either awlgrip or actual gelcoat!

Any thoughts??

Looking good! What are you going to use for the hatch ram? and where do you plan on placing it? If you need some pics I have some for ram placement if you use a single ram in the middle. We have pretty much the same setup.

Thanks man!

I have spent many hours in my CAD software playing with different ram mounting options. I have settled on mounting it on the center stringer right between the engines. I am going to push on the cover were the recess is on the center support beam. You can see it in one of the earlier posts and in the CAD renderings. Where are you pushing yours from?