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Transom replacement full vs partial

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Old 03-18-2014 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Eliminatorshane
Let me know Borgia if you need the template for outdrive.
Definitely! Thanks Shane!
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Old 03-18-2014 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by glassdave
oh no . . . i just noticed you have the threads on the surface sheet running left to right . . . . man thats a huge no no . . . . i should have mentioned they should run right to left
















































































lol . . . just kiddin
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Is the Warp and Fill mixed up

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Old 03-19-2014 | 10:46 AM
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I'm curious, what template is needed for the outdrive if you still have the original bolt holes in the transom? Borgie, I'm assuming you didn't fill in the prior existing holes?
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Old 03-19-2014 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ramos45
I'm curious, what template is needed for the outdrive if you still have the original bolt holes in the transom? Borgie, I'm assuming you didn't fill in the prior existing holes?
I dont ever cut/drill the hole till its completely done. It is very very important that you use a bushed guide so they are straight if not installing can be a pain. I use a Merc factory jig.
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Old 03-19-2014 | 12:58 PM
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Ramos,

Yeah I need to ask Shane if he has a merc jig as my holes are still there on the outside but fairly full of corebond. I won't free hand it, and I don't like the idea of using a harbor freight drill jig like some do online. Borrowing a jig will probably be highly unlikely though, so we will see.
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Old 03-19-2014 | 03:37 PM
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I hear you all. I have a shop near that I may be able to rent the merc jig from but I don't see the problem with using the Harbor Freight or Home Depot drill jig to keep you perpendicular to the transom.
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Old 03-19-2014 | 08:11 PM
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looks amazing, r u sure you havent done this before?
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Old 03-19-2014 | 08:48 PM
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Looks good. A member on here loaned me his jig when I did mine. No way would I attempt it without one. Too easy to put the holes in off kilter. The drill jig does use oversized drill sizes IMO for the studs. When done, my assembly could move slightly within the holes, even after I sealed up the drilled holes. I put some sleeves over the studs to close up the excess clearance for a movement free TA.

If all else fails, the jig is fairly reasonable to purchase. And they seem to sell fast
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Old 03-20-2014 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by stimleck
looks amazing, r u sure you havent done this before?
Thanks! Yeah I'm really happy with the way it turned out. Again, Glassdave has given me some great pointers along with my father who use to build quite a few unlimited hydroplanes. To be fair, I have worked with fiberglass a little building stereo enclosures, but nothing pertaining to boats. I love learning new things/techniques and getting my hands dirty, so this has been a great overall experience(minus the sanding!).

Last edited by Borgie; 03-20-2014 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 05-10-2014 | 11:07 PM
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Just to update:



IMO 3m corebond is the only way to do a transom. Thank you glassdave for turning me onto this method!



Before final layup:

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