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-   -   Rotten bulkhead HELP! (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/detailing-painting-fiberglass/324723-rotten-bulkhead-help.html)

575cat 04-03-2015 03:16 PM


Originally Posted by Diamond Dave (Post 4287562)
I searched and did not find many threads specifically related to Fountains but I'm new to boating and pretty ignorant in that respect so you may be right...

Just my experience when I had my fountain they are a mess when they glassed them, more air pockets & cavities than you can believe . I was cutting my reliefs for water pickups and you could loose tools in the pockets in the hull . They would be drug smuggling boats you could stash tons and they wouldnt find it . ha ha mass production boat hurry up .

dereknkathy 04-03-2015 03:18 PM

But then all your stash would be wet...

vintage chromoly 04-03-2015 03:19 PM

You will also need the alignment tooling to properly re-install your offshore style engine mounts. There is no adjustment once they are bolted in, so setting them up right from the start is important.

dereknkathy 04-03-2015 03:20 PM


Originally Posted by indysupra (Post 4287581)
I fully derigged my boat and took it to glass dave and had transom/stringers done and it was less than 5k.

indy is a whole lot closer to glassdave than portland oregon...otherwise everybody on here woulda said glassdave...

c_deezy 04-03-2015 03:51 PM

That's pretty bad, there isn't even any glass on that bulkhead on either side. All that was, was resin covered wood with gelcoat over it. Keep exploring, you'll probably find more shoddy build quality unfortunately. Once you go over everything then you can figure out what your repair plan is. As long as you have a place to work on it, its not that bad of a job to repair and it will be better than what came out of the factory.


Originally Posted by Diamond Dave (Post 4287401)
So I went out after work today and I opened up that hole my foot went through a little so I could try and peek in there with a flashlight and do some digging. I used a screwdriver and raked it across the the back of the hole pretty hard and it seemed very solid you can see the marks where I was scratching it in the picture. It looks like whatever is in front of that piece has disentegrated and left a gap between the bilge paint "shell" and the hard wood behind it.


Diamond Dave 04-03-2015 04:02 PM


Originally Posted by dereknkathy (Post 4287574)
Seacast. You will get a better stronger repair by bolting a 2 by 4 on either side of the stringer. Both are butcher jobs. One is honest about being a butcher job. Now, if you can live without full throttle, you can get thru the season and start the derig in the fall. You get engines out by tonight and get it to glass shop tomorrow morning there is no guarantee you will be in the water by august. Many will disagree. Say you hafta fix it now, but it was probably exactly like this last season and the boat didnt break in half and sink...

So I guess the Seacast is a no no! That's a great point you bring up about it being this way for however knows how long and still running though... it may be good enough to put out to the sandbar with the family this season and tear apart during the winter...sure makes me nervous though!


Originally Posted by indysupra (Post 4287581)
I fully derigged my boat and took it to glass dave and had transom/stringers done and it was less than 5k.

I like hearing that! glassdave needs to vacation in Portland this month lol. Maybe someone on here has connections or have heard of someone in this area?


Originally Posted by vintage chromoly (Post 4287593)
You will also need the alignment tooling to properly re-install your offshore style engine mounts. There is no adjustment once they are bolted in, so setting them up right from the start is important.

So what does this tooling consist of? Wouldn't having the measurements of where things are now recreated on the replacement stringer be enough?

Diamond Dave 04-03-2015 04:06 PM


Originally Posted by c_deezy (Post 4287609)
That's pretty bad, there isn't even any glass on that bulkhead on either side. All that was, was resin covered wood with gelcoat over it. Keep exploring, you'll probably find more shoddy build quality unfortunately. Once you go over everything then you can figure out what your repair plan is. As long as you have a place to work on it, its not that bad of a job to repair and it will be better than what came out of the factory.

I do not have a place to work other than where it is parked in my driveway and no experience in glass work. I can manage to remove the engines and drives I think but that's where I will stop on this project. Just need good solid information on where to take it and the right questions to ask when "interviewing" shops or people...

575cat 04-03-2015 04:17 PM


Originally Posted by dereknkathy (Post 4287592)
But then all your stash would be wet...

OH OH thats right .

indysupra 04-03-2015 04:29 PM


Originally Posted by dereknkathy (Post 4287594)
indy is a whole lot closer to glassdave than portland oregon...otherwise everybody on here woulda said glassdave...

I was using it as a point of reference for the cost of having it done.

Diamond Dave 04-03-2015 05:35 PM


Originally Posted by indysupra (Post 4287624)
I was using it as a point of reference for the cost of having it done.

So it sounds like 5k is the magic number for a full transom and some stringers...


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