Thanks I appreciate that! How about a plane ticket and free room with beer?! Lol! I'm half tempted to bust out my sawzall, dremel and grinder, watch some YouTube videos and see how it pans out lol!

Very tempting if I didn't have a list of things to get done here first. I'll make a deal with you though, and I hope you don't have to wait this long, but if you don't get things wrapped up this season I'll take that plane ticket, room and of course beer next winter and give you a week. I'm not too bad at fiberglass work but I am a finish carpenter by trade. If the motors are out I'm pretty confident we could knock that out in a week!

Thanks man I appreciate that more than you know! :ernaehrung004:

I'm all ready to get this dealt with once and for all!

http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/...ps99y7etzq.jpg

http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/...psg79dfuqz.jpg

Let the fun begin!!!

Hey Dave,

If you don't mind a little wire work when you are done have them glass panels in the side for trim pumps. It gives you added room to work on the motors, like water pump rebuilds.

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That is brilliant maybe I should look into that! BTW looks good!

Hey everyone I have some more questions and hopefully someone can shed some light on the correct process here...

We are really excited that the boat is finally at the shop for the hull repairs. I am curious on the correct procedure the factory uses on how and where to drill and mount the brackets and mounts for the engines. My stringer mounts are as seen in the picture and the engine mounts are the tubular Gil offshore units with flat plates on each side which then bolt to the L brackets in the picture. These have zero adjustment. No elongated holes or anything to allow movement of the mount and neither do the L brackets that are bolted directly to the stringers...

I am assuming I will need to drop an engine in, check its alignment, then drill the new holes in the stringer for the L brackets. Is it necessary to drop both engines in and then drill the center stringer? If only one engine was used for drilling, the engines share the same bolt holes in the center so I wouldn't be able to adjust anything on the second motor anyways once drilled. I don't have two cranes to hang both engines at the same time and be able to check both alignments before drilling either.

My other thought is that since the outer stringers L brackets are not being touched is that I could just bolt the offshore mounts (without engines) to them and bolt the L brackets for the center stringer to the mounts as well which would align all the brackets with where the center stringer holes would need the new holes drilled. Obviously no drive alignment could be checked previous in that scenario and I would be relying on the fact that they were drilled properly from the factory to begin with. Just looking for some insight on what everyone does for when that time comes since I only want to drill once and do it right the first time!


http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/...ps99y7etzq.jpg

It's much easier to use a mock up block with a crank in it. A lot less to work around. We always buy new aluminum angles. Mount them to the stringers at the appropriate angle/depth (take measurements before disassembly. Then drop in mock up block. Align with bar. Lastly drill new holes in angles to bolt race mount to using the race mount as a drill jig... We use block of wood to shim the mock up block exactly where we want it.

That makes sense. What do you typically measure from for the initial angle bracket mounting before disassembly?