Transom replacement on Checkmate 281
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As far as securing the floor to the stringers, I wasn't thrilled about it either but I ended up just screwing it into ribs I added. Spread bedding resin on the stringer/hullside, lay the floor down and screw it down into the stringer to hold it while it cures. Put some weight on the floor where you can't screw it down to keep it in place. Then put a layer of glass over the floor/screw-heads.
Sorry I didn't make it over, work interfered but you are doing a great job, you've got it figured out.
Thanks, I know how life gets busy!Originally Posted by c_deezy
Looks good! What I did was take about two gallons of resin, and mix in the filler with a drill/paddle to the consistency you want, and just leave it in a pail covered. When you need some filler, just scoop out what you need and add the mekp. As long as you keep it in a sealed pail you'll have it when you need it and only have to mix it the one time.As far as securing the floor to the stringers, I wasn't thrilled about it either but I ended up just screwing it into ribs I added. Spread bedding resin on the stringer/hullside, lay the floor down and screw it down into the stringer to hold it while it cures. Put some weight on the floor where you can't screw it down to keep it in place. Then put a layer of glass over the floor/screw-heads.
Sorry I didn't make it over, work interfered but you are doing a great job, you've got it figured out.
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Usually bed floors with core bond or West Systems 404 let it set then pull screws and glass over the holes.
Dave, thanks for the great info! It is very helpful and still waiting for your book to be published. Originally Posted by glassdave
I get foam from fibergalst or us comp but don't stock it. Somewhere in the four to six pound density is what you need. Usually bed floors with core bond or West Systems 404 let it set then pull screws and glass over the holes.
I am getting ready to dive into a transom, stringer, floor job and planning my method of attack!
Curious about your thoughts about removing the screws verses leave them in and just glass them in?
Another question about stringer replacement. Do you ever replace one side at a time?
Thanks, Randy
It seems that rebuilding a boat is a lot more like rebuilding a car than I thought. Its always the small stuff that takes forever! The front compartment is coming together.
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I am still not sure weather to use foam or not... It only gives about 600 Lb of flotation in this boat, and seems to cause more problems than its worth. Only thing it seems to do is act as sound deadening. Going to need a new gas tank and put the old one in to figure out some of the floor and interior.
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I am still not sure weather to use foam or not... It only gives about 600 Lb of flotation in this boat, and seems to cause more problems than its worth. Only thing it seems to do is act as sound deadening. Going to need a new gas tank and put the old one in to figure out some of the floor and interior.
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The foam helps with flexing/oil-canning on the running surface, doesn't really add any flotation in the minimal quantity it's used. I wouldn't put it back in.
Instead of the foam, I just put an extra stringer and 4 or 5 ribs on each side of the main stringers, under the cockpit floor to minimize hull flex. Just like what you have on the port side, under your straight-edge. In your case I would just add the ribs, I don't think you need an extra stringer.
Instead of the foam, I just put an extra stringer and 4 or 5 ribs on each side of the main stringers, under the cockpit floor to minimize hull flex. Just like what you have on the port side, under your straight-edge. In your case I would just add the ribs, I don't think you need an extra stringer.
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Instead of the foam, I just put an extra stringer and 4 or 5 ribs on each side of the main stringers, under the cockpit floor to minimize hull flex. Just like what you have on the port side, under your straight-edge. In your case I would just add the ribs, I don't think you need an extra stringer.
I was thinking of adding the ribs... not sure how many to use though. Im also wondering if it will effect the ride and handling of the boat. I know the foam added some rigidity but it also would allow some flex. The way i am thinking of glassing in the ribs (with 2 layers of 1708 and a layer of tabbing) I dont know weather it will be too stiff. Or if you can make a boat too stiff..?.. causing it crack or brake apart....Originally Posted by c_deezy
The foam helps with flexing/oil-canning on the running surface, doesn't really add any flotation in the minimal quantity it's used. I wouldn't put it back in.Instead of the foam, I just put an extra stringer and 4 or 5 ribs on each side of the main stringers, under the cockpit floor to minimize hull flex. Just like what you have on the port side, under your straight-edge. In your case I would just add the ribs, I don't think you need an extra stringer.
The front storage compartments are are at least together. They still need a final layer of glass. I think I am going to add a small stringer in the front compartment to at least tie the main stringers and the front storage compartment together. I keep seeing pictures of boats that have been stuffed, and knowing I cant drive, I can see me stuffing the boat and it breaking at that point.
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Also got the floors glassed in in the front and bedded in the back.
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Also got the floors glassed in in the front and bedded in the back.
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The stringers for connecting the main stringers and front box are in. Dont know weather they will help or just add weight. lol
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I took deezy's advice so I am putting 5 ribs in per side to suport the floor. Cut the ribs to fit and I laid a flange on what will be the top for better adhesion to the floor. They also have two coats of resin and the dreaded 2oz cloth where the the water Chanel is. I will probly bed them in and put two layers of tabbing on them also.
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I took deezy's advice so I am putting 5 ribs in per side to suport the floor. Cut the ribs to fit and I laid a flange on what will be the top for better adhesion to the floor. They also have two coats of resin and the dreaded 2oz cloth where the the water Chanel is. I will probly bed them in and put two layers of tabbing on them also.
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