How do I wire trim/tab pumps to term block?
 

Ok, I have and existing vintage switch panel and a terminal block, but I can't figure out what wires go where on the terminal strip. lots of pic's to help the electrically inclined guys hook me up.

And another pic of a better switch detail and one of my K-tab pumps/trim pumps a yr.'04 I'll take any help I can get guys so don't be shy.

This would take me two seconds to do in real life. I will do my best to explain on the board. We however need more info. Do you have a picture of the back of the switch?

Ok here goes making one assumption. Switch 3 and 4 have to be double pole, double throw.

So, on the drives side switch 1 is port, switch two is starboard, and switch 3 combines. Basically since you have three wire sets, the units use 12v from the main pump solonoid to power the switches.

So, port unit has 3 wires, blue goes to switch 1 bottom position, green goes to switch 1 top position. *see note Then, the odd wire, looks like red or purple from the pics, goes to the center terminal on the switch. Do the same for switch 2.

Switch 3 should have 6 terminals in the back, two sets of 3. All the wires from switch one get jumped to the exact same location on one side of switch 3, and then all the wires from switch 2 get jumped to the other side of switch 3. So switch 3 is essential the same as holding both one and two up.

Follow the same idea for the tabs. Draw it out, and use the terminal blocks the best. If you want a diagram including the wiring to the terminal blocks, let me know.

*note.. the terminals on the back of the switch are opposites to the action the switch does. So up to trim up engages the bottom terminal of the switch.

Here is a pic of the back of the switches you wanted to see

My assumption is correct (it pretty much had to be).

You can see how they are jumped from one side of switch 3 to switch 2, and the other to switch 1.

Joe has it. I wanted to make sure that you did not have diods back there (you do not). Next thing to do is get a multi meter and start tracing out your wires. If you need us to do it wire by wire we can do that for ya.

Jon

he could just see if the wires on the pumps have numbers too.

The wires on the pumps have no numbers just color, The pumps and harnesses are new, switch panel is 1970's. I have a total of 12 wires from the new pumps 4 green 4 blue 2 red and 2 purple. vs. the 70's term block has 15 wires "out" on the "pump side" How? Are wires jumped on the pump side of the terminal block? I have a second 70's era rocker switch panel and its terminal block is wired exactly the same, but I have to figure out how to connect up my new trim and tab pumps to it with only 12 wires.The purple wire might be a electric indicator, I have mech.so I can't figure out where the Purple wire go's or if I even need it, or could use as red?

You guys are doing great so far, please keep helping, sorry I don't get it yet.

Yes they will jump wires. You can see on the old unit that they did that.

Maybe a little info to help. Green is trim down. Blue is trim up on the trim pumps.

For example you will have three wires from each trim pump. Those three wires are going to go to 5 or 6 locations. They will go to the trim up and down for the single switch (the one with only three wires) and they will go to the up and down for the switch that moves both drives together (the one with 6 wires hooked up to it). Now for the fun part. Were is the jumper happening. It apears that it happens at the switch best I can tell.

We need to know how many wires come down the harness from the switch. I am hoping 12 (three for each pump motor)

The red wires are the battery 12v+ supply for the switches to send through the blue and green wires to trigger the pumps up and down. The blue wires are wired on the "UP" solenoid but your gonna have to double check how the pumps are plumbed intot he system to see which wire will trigger UP/Down or IN/OUT. The purple wires are usually the trim limit senders on the drives to keep the pumps from pumping after the drives have hit their limits....

Yes 12 wires three from each pump, got the whole green blue thing and even understand the red wire to power the switches, but I don't know what to do with the purple wire at the switch term block.

Yes the purple wires are back at the pump for the drive limit, but also at the end of the harness up by the switch terminal block, why and what do I do with the purple wire?

How good are you at trimming your boat? I did not hook mine up I hate them. I do know when to stop trimming however so..... Neither my Formula or Donzi have the trim limits hooked up.

Jon

Change the plumbing if needed, but Blue should always be up for the drives & down for the tabs (it is the hi pressure side)

Not sure of the purple in your case, what you really need is the 3 wires from each pump - hot, up & down as shown on the attached. The hot will always go to the center terminal on the switches. The outer switches will have each terminal jumped to the closest 1 side off the double pole (6 terminal) switch in the middle.

How about making a drawing for us of the wiring on your switches to the terminal block?

At the end of the day all you need is 12 wires, might not hurt to unwrap that bundle and see where your 15 all go.

I have never seen the trim limit used on this type of panel, you would need a nother switch to bypass for trailer position.

Just took another look at your pump harness pictures, I am going to assume the purple is the hot wire on those. Why don't you power it up & jump the purple & blue and see what happens? Can't make too much of a fire if wrong :)

I thought you guys were good :drink::drink: Multi meter and or test light are your friend!! LOL.

Magnum, Bam has it right you need the Blue to be up on drives and down on tabs so that you are working with the high preasure side of the pump on the hardest direction.

Another question; Looks like I need a fuse "a" I didn't figure on, is this usually a inline or at the fuse box? I try to stay away from inline fuses because you can never find them. I am out of room on my box at the dash.

Also I can use purple as red(hot) to switch? and I get the whole blue green up down thing, From what I read jumps are happening on the Pump side of the terminal block to put 15 wires on a 10 posts so everything works. I will find someone to help me use a multi meter to figure it all out I guess.

Blue Sky

Green Grass


The easy way to remember what the solenoid wires on the drive trip pump!

Magnume: There is a fuse on the trim pump for the up and down. If you look close behind the bracket there is small black rubber case. That opens up for the fuse.

Magnum were you at?

Thats what I thought, the fuses on the pumps protect the whole circuit and I don't need to protect the switches to the fuse box. They are protected by the fuses at the pumps right?

My question is still the same, how do I end up with 15 wires on 10 posts with a total of 12 wires on the pump side of the terminal block???
Please look at my post 1 pic 1 and you can see the old terminal block has 15 wires on the pump side. I have never gotten the answer on how to wire the pump side of the terminal block and I would like to do it this Saturday. I know somebody knows, don't hold back guys.

Yes the fuse at the pump is all you need.

Do you want to wire it exactly as it was? Are you going to put the trim limit switch back in?

I could help you better in person probably.... :(
The extra wires on the pump side do a few possible things....

1) If you have a trailer button, these wires most likely bypass your trim limit switch (if you have one).
2) The wires on the block control both drives at the same time. Three switches on the dash... Port, Stbd. and Both.
3. A lot of trim switch systems have a one way diode between the two switches and the one that controls both of them.

Is that what you're asking?

I have a think I would have a limit, my drives are Bravo sounds like I need that.
Yes, I want to wire it exactly as it was, I have no trailer bypass button just the switch panel in the pic and no diodes either.
Just need to figure out how to wire the pump side of the terminal block like they had, but I have 12 wires coming up from the 4 pumps and they had 15 wires on 10 posts.

Best I can tell you do not want to hook up the trim limit switch because if you do you will not be able to trim up your drive for trailering. Then you have 10 wires coming from yout switch panel to the terminal block. Then you have 12 wires going out to the trim pumps the powers according to your notaion gets put together. I am not a big fan of that putting the power together because you are effectivly giving your trim pumps 40 amps of protection instead of 20. I would get another terminal strip with 12 connectors on it and that way you have them all fused properly. Plus if the fuse blows you do not loose two pumps.

Jon

Lets try to keep it simple, can we figure out only Green.

I have 4 green wires from the pumps;
2 Green Down for Port+Starbord Tabs.
2 Green Down for Port+Starbord Drives.

The right side of Terminal Strip has 6 green wires vs. my 4.

Can anyone tell me how to take 4 wires from the pumps and get 6 conected to the terminal strip.

Terminal 10 AT TOP with 2 wires is starbord and both Tabs.
Terminal 8 with 2 wires is starbord and both Drives.

Terminnal 2 with 1 wire is Port Drive
Terminal 3 with 1 wire is Port Tab

All that is 6 wires I only have 4 even a jump wire dosn't seem to add up to 4 terminals with 2 greens each and 2 terminals with 1 green each?

the extra green and blue wires should be connected to the switch that's marked "Both", when that switch is fired up it activates both the drives at the same time. You can jump the wires at the buss, where it looks like it was done, or you can jump them behind the switches.

same for the tabs.

They apeared to be jumped at the switch as I am looking at it that is what it looks like to me.

Magnum you have to read my post above. Do you want this STOCK or CORRECT?

The wires appear to be cut so maybe it was wired from the bus at one point and now it's jumped at the switch.

The switch panel is in place so that is "stock" so I guess I want what the switch calls for since thats the switch panel I am using.

Sorry Guy's I was away on business, just got back.

Magnum my suggestion is to take that terminal strip and get one that has 12 posts instead of 10. This will allow you to properly hook up the wires. Doing it with 10 posts means that you are not going to be running the power wires correctly. Is this acceptable?

Jon

Yes

If you get that then you will have the 12 coming from the pumps going to the 12 going to the switches. You will be adding 2 additional "hot" wires as they call them. Does that help ya out enough?

In other words

Port tabs:
Hot to post 1
Out to post 2
In to post 3
Port Drives:
Hot to post 4
Out to post 5
In to post 6
Starboard Drive
Hot to post 7
Out to post 8
In to post 9
Starboard Tab
Hot to post 10
Out to post 11
In to post 12

Ok then off to get a 12 post term. block and a buddy to check it all with a multi meter and back to moving forward on this restoration... Thanks to all!

If you need any more info just ask. You need a multi meter with a ohms setting. Some have a tone that let you know when you have continuity so that you do not have to keep your eye on the meter. Get some alligator jumpers they will make things a little easier for you.

Magnum I just had some time to really look at your pictures on my computer at home (huge 32" monitor). The numbers that are on the wires at the back side of the switches on the wires, correspond to the numbers on your typed out paper. So you should be able to even trace it out that way and just look at the color coding. In other words the 9, white with a green strip is your tabs up starboard side. 10 is your tabs down starboard side. 6 is your power from the starboard tab trim pump. Hope that helps some more for ya.

Sure does thanks ie)6=starboard side so I don't cross the battery power...

Not sure what you mean by "cross the battery power". You should be pulling the power from each trim pumps harness. In other words you will have 4 power wires that will each go to their individual switches (see my list above). There are a few advantages to this. First one is that they are fused individually, that way if one fuse blows you do not loose two pumps. It also can aid in testing as each circuit is now seperate.

honestly it does not matter what power goes to what pump it will work either way. I however like that they are organized so that you trouble shoot in the future.