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Originally Posted by 2112
(Post 2693078)
So what to use above 700 HP?
I have two Teague units (American industrial heat exchanger) And I can get up to 270 degrees after some hard runs. Cruising is 230. I suspect I am either not getting enough water in (XR sportmaster pick-up) or I am pumping it through too fast and need to restrict my water out flow (all size 12 exiting each header). All the above plumbing rules followed for both oil and water BTW. Size 12 oil lines and thermostatically controlled. I use V-Twin as a safety margin. Any other suggestions? What are your water temps ? Are you running water Thermostats ? If not are you restricting water flow at all? Are you running oil Thermostats ? |
Yes to the oil T-stats
Closed cooling, ranges from 170-185 max with no T-stat. No restriction on the coolant side, and really none on the raw water side. 1.25" raw water lines until it tees at the headers where goes down to 12AN. All plumbing is radiused fittings and smooth hose transitions. |
Originally Posted by 2112
(Post 2693365)
Yes to the oil T-stats
Closed cooling, ranges from 170-185 max with no T-stat. No restriction on the coolant side, and really none on the raw water side. 1.25" raw water lines until it tees at the headers where goes down to 12AN. All plumbing is radiused fittings and smooth hose transitions. |
They get down to 150 at idle. I tried to size the system to run without a thermostat. The fact that the coolant itself stays within that range is good IMO.
The oil cooler is receiving water first. I am trying to find ways to get it to cool better. BTW my plugs read just about perfect and I am at 36 degrees total advance. I have suspected I may drop my oil temps a bit by fattening up the secondary jets and running a bit rich. I would just like to see the coolers cool more. . |
You may have a restriction in your external oiling system. If you have 90's or have small lines, you cluld be riding the relief spring You may be just recirculating oil inside the motor. If your oil pumps are high-volume and you're at your max relief spring pressure at running speeds, you're just moving oil into the pan and not cooling it. Plus the additional pumping is adding even more heat. Same for the bypass valve in your block- if it's a Gen motor.
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Fords. No bypass in blocks. External belt driven pumps (like single stage dry sump pump) I ran out of room for external oil tanks so I have 16 quart stainless pans.
All oil lines are 12AN and all fittings are straight or sweeping Aeroquip fittings. I do pump a lot of oil up top for cooling valvetrain and there are external 10AN drainback line to assist getting oil back down to pans. Oil pressure stays good at 70 lbs even at hot temps |
I forgot about your Fords.
Those coolers should be plenty to do the job- I'd look at the water supply. How's your water pressure at speed? |
That is what I was thinking (water flow issue)
5lbs at idle and 12-15lbs at speed. |
have you checked the temp gauges? Know they are accurate?
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Pressure is OK. Is that at the head? Do the needles bounce?
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