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Old 06-21-2013 | 08:15 PM
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personally I would have it rebalanced, how many times do you want to run this thing knowing it has a problem? I find it much easier to just fix it all correctly once and be done.
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Old 06-22-2013 | 03:20 PM
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I don't, that's why I brought the boat home to fix it right..
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Old 06-28-2013 | 04:11 PM
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engine is out of the boat and at the machine shop for tear down.
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Old 01-08-2014 | 11:53 AM
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engine is rebuilt and will be putting it back in the boat in a couple of weeks, the engine had mismatched main caps, 2 spun bearings, 2 rocker studs broken off, the aluminum heads didn't match the block, so I bought a new block and went back to steel heads. the only thing that was used was the crank, rods, pistons and cam off the engine. pretty sad.
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Old 01-09-2014 | 10:37 AM
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sorry, but seen that many times for those Ebay specials....Rob
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Old 01-09-2014 | 11:48 AM
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WOW, just read this whole thread, sorry bigjem, dont know how these guys get a way with selling junk, without being punnished and cant be held accountable for the product, I say pull his ebay card.
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Old 01-09-2014 | 11:53 AM
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So another engine / machine shop to really look out for. Seems even worst than the builder from Washington who offers a 7 year warranty. Seen a few of his junk engine rebuilds / remans in person installed in various boats. Stay away from his stuff also.

The EBAY ad says " full machine shop and 55 years in business" and he has a 99.1 positive rating. Hmmm it should read 99.1 negative rating putting out slop like that. Anyways hopefully you got everything lined out now with another build so you can enjoy 2014 boating season. Good luck.
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Old 01-09-2014 | 12:02 PM
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To ensure to have success with the next engine replace oil cooler and lines and pay close attention to getting all metal out of any bolt ons to the engine that were on the failed engine. Also double check oil line routings to not be reversed and that you have the proper bypass valve in the block, or better yet block it off and run a filter with internal bypass.
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Old 01-09-2014 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by bigjem
engine is rebuilt and will be putting it back in the boat in a couple of weeks, the engine had mismatched main caps, 2 spun bearings, 2 rocker studs broken off, the aluminum heads didn't match the block, so I bought a new block and went back to steel heads. the only thing that was used was the crank, rods, pistons and cam off the engine. pretty sad.
I hate to be the berror of bad news BUT,a cam with an lsa of 108deg is going to have big time reversion problems,and will destroy the engine in no time flat,SORRY.
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Old 01-10-2014 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by f_inscreenname
No personal experience but that's what I was told by the folks I bought a crank from (no names, not throwing them under the bus). Also read about it on line. Could be nothing but why take the chance? It's kind of believable. Maybe you buy better ones and it's just the cheaper ones. I don't know.
But I cant see why you would want one if you are balancing a motor anyway.
You were told by SCAT. I've spoken with them and they claim(it's online in writing that balancers like ATI dampers which happen to be "elastomeric band dampers" and fluidamprs which use silicone (hint hint they own a damper brand, and might be why they are making these claims without evidence). If you look at how a Fluidampr works, you quickly realize this "phenomenon" cannot and does not happen. Ask them to provide proof of this "claim". They cannot. Funny thing is I like SCAT's crankshafts and rods, but I wanted to laugh in the tech guys face when he started in on his verbal diarrhea regarding crankshaft harmonics. Drivers license and a GED, but he's an EXPERT! Sad.

Why wouldn't you want one if you were balancing a motor? Fluidampr doesn't recommend balancing with their viscous style damper in place. Not really sure what's so alarming about that. Fluidampr hasn't has one reported failure of a damper on a high performace motor that's been documented or proven. They have companies whom are offshore and copy their design(poorly), And these may very well be the ones you are speaking of. Fluidampr is a USA produced product located in NY fwiw.

I like both ATI and Fluidampr. I chose Fluidampr for my latest build and have used them on several other applications and have had great results.

Here is what scat blames their broken crankshafts on...http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/scatt...k_the_Nose.pdf

Last edited by Borgie; 01-10-2014 at 12:26 AM.
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