-50* test 1..2..3..
12-13-2013 | 08:57 AM
#11
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 769
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From: Brookfield Wi
I did this same test a few years back and almost crapped myself. Now I actually run this stuff through the system (mainly for raw water pumps), remove hoses at lowest point, drain blocks (leave out petcocks till spring) and pour in the pick stuff through thermostat housing and highest point of hoses (exhaust, water pump and coolers) till pink comes out block exhaust etc or whatever. Takes frick'in forever but it's the only way I can sleep. My main issue I have with this theory is corrosion control. Leaving the blocks dry leaves opportunity for oxidation. Lastly, i have a programmable thermostat with 2- trouble lights in the engine area set at 50*f. I know way over kill.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lux-WIN100-H...item51b5cd1051
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lux-WIN100-H...item51b5cd1051
12-13-2013 | 12:40 PM
#12
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,497
Likes: 4
From: PA/MD
You could always just buy the -100 stuff. They sell it at most marine/rv places near me and my local Walmart as well for about $3.00 a gallon. I use it to winterize all the pipes in the summer place, the boat, and my work shop. Zero issues and it gets pretty cold here.
Last edited by Baja226sport; 12-13-2013 at 12:41 PM. Reason: spelling
12-13-2013 | 02:45 PM
#13
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,358
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From: Coal City ,IL
I will say that with using this stuff, you really need to drain everything, blocks, coolers, strainers, exhaust, etc. A month or so ago I was planning to pull my engines out at Icdedppls house. But, the hoist assembly wasn't ready just yet, and they were calling for lows in the 20s at night. So, I hooked up the antifreeze (pink) bucket, and started the engines, sucking and pumping it through until the exhaust starting to look pink. (about 5 gallons per engine). We removed the engines a week later, and they were sitting in his garage. Decided to drain the blocks. Took a sample of the mixture that was in the blocks, and put it outside. It was frozen pretty solid the other day with temps in the teens. Due to it mixing with water.
Now, if you weren't gonna drain everything, Id probably want to use straight pure automotive antifreeze that is meant to be diluted.
Now, if you weren't gonna drain everything, Id probably want to use straight pure automotive antifreeze that is meant to be diluted.
Back to freaking out!!
12-13-2013 | 03:33 PM
#17
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,358
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From: Coal City ,IL
12-13-2013 | 04:34 PM
#18
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 390
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From: Perry Lake, KS Lake of Ozarks
Dilution is exactly why I only drain, fill, drain.
I looked up the effects of dilution a while back. Don't remember the exact numbers but it is surprising how fast the freezing point rises with each 10% dilution. Something on the order of 12 deg / 10%.
That means if you don't drain first, there is a good chance you could freeze a block if just running til pink "comes out". Most of the time boaters are spared damage because it does not get super cold LONG ENOUGH to really chill the whole block for most of the country. (much like the old adage 24 deg for 24 hours before risk of water freezing in the block)
IF the block is drained after adding AF, I am not concerned with corrosion. Whatever liquid that is left is still an anti-corrosion solution so nothing should not be at risk. Also, corrosion happens much slower in cold conditions than at hot like engine operating temps.
For those with major winterize OCD, Merc and others also offer -200, pure AF.
I looked up the effects of dilution a while back. Don't remember the exact numbers but it is surprising how fast the freezing point rises with each 10% dilution. Something on the order of 12 deg / 10%.
That means if you don't drain first, there is a good chance you could freeze a block if just running til pink "comes out". Most of the time boaters are spared damage because it does not get super cold LONG ENOUGH to really chill the whole block for most of the country. (much like the old adage 24 deg for 24 hours before risk of water freezing in the block)
IF the block is drained after adding AF, I am not concerned with corrosion. Whatever liquid that is left is still an anti-corrosion solution so nothing should not be at risk. Also, corrosion happens much slower in cold conditions than at hot like engine operating temps.
For those with major winterize OCD, Merc and others also offer -200, pure AF.
