Swivel pin replacement...
01-24-2014, 08:30 AM
#33
01-24-2014, 09:44 AM
#34
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I ran across this looking at your utube links. Funniest boat launch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aoSRH9Ddhs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aoSRH9Ddhs
02-02-2014, 11:34 AM
#35
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I'll be doing this project in the coming weeks on my 1990 29 Fountain twin. My engs are already out so I won't be doing any cutting/drilling.
On the upper swivel shaft there's 2 bushing correct? The JR video shows the removal of the lower one where he drives it up from the bottom then has to collapse it so it can be removed since the cut-out in the transom was a little small and the steering arm wouldn't move up any more.. How is the upper bushing removed? That part wasn't covered in the video.
Also, in your youtube slideshow, there's a large while doughnut looking thing. What was that?
How did your gimble rings look where the square part of the swivel pin engages them? Mine have slop and that's why I'm diving in.. Didn't notice a problem until I hit abt 77 mph for the first time. The slop caused a serious control issue above that speed (no ext steering on mine yet).
Thx for any input!
On the upper swivel shaft there's 2 bushing correct? The JR video shows the removal of the lower one where he drives it up from the bottom then has to collapse it so it can be removed since the cut-out in the transom was a little small and the steering arm wouldn't move up any more.. How is the upper bushing removed? That part wasn't covered in the video.
Also, in your youtube slideshow, there's a large while doughnut looking thing. What was that?
How did your gimble rings look where the square part of the swivel pin engages them? Mine have slop and that's why I'm diving in.. Didn't notice a problem until I hit abt 77 mph for the first time. The slop caused a serious control issue above that speed (no ext steering on mine yet).
Thx for any input!
02-02-2014, 11:57 AM
#36
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Location: Seatle WA
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top bearing
I ended up following the video and then noticed I had a new bearing that I had not installed. So I didn't install it. I did end up buying a new stainless pin because the steel one was worn and didn't make sense to me to have a steel one? I hear u need to pull it with a puller.
02-02-2014, 02:22 PM
#37
I'll be doing this project in the coming weeks on my 1990 29 Fountain twin. My engs are already out so I won't be doing any cutting/drilling.
On the upper swivel shaft there's 2 bushing correct? This is correct...a small one on top and a larger one on the bottom. A word of advice...get the Mercruiser install tool or borrow one as it is a pain to try to get the bushings in place, especially the upper bushing. Getting the upper bushing out is another pain in the butt, but if you have a small punch, get it started between the bushing and the wall but dont booger up the side wall. Make sure the split in the bushing is either in the 3 or 9 oclock position ONLY.
The JR video shows the removal of the lower one where he drives it up from the bottom then has to collapse it so it can be removed since the cut-out in the transom was a little small and the steering arm wouldn't move up any more.. How is the upper bushing removed? That part wasn't covered in the video. The upper bushing is like I said...tough but once you get the side wall colapsed, youo can reach up to it with a good pair of needle nose pliers and twist and pull and it will come out.
Also, in your youtube slideshow, there's a large while doughnut looking thing. What was that? Hmmmmmmmmmm...I have no idea...gotta go have a look and see. I will get back to you on that.
How did your gimble rings look where the square part of the swivel pin engages them? Mine have slop and that's why I'm diving in.. Didn't notice a problem until I hit abt 77 mph for the first time. The slop caused a serious control issue above that speed (no ext steering on mine yet). My gimbals were fine...no excessive wear at all and when I went back together with them, they are now solid with no play in the steering. I tightend up my U-bolts to 50 pounds feet.
Thx for any input!
On the upper swivel shaft there's 2 bushing correct? This is correct...a small one on top and a larger one on the bottom. A word of advice...get the Mercruiser install tool or borrow one as it is a pain to try to get the bushings in place, especially the upper bushing. Getting the upper bushing out is another pain in the butt, but if you have a small punch, get it started between the bushing and the wall but dont booger up the side wall. Make sure the split in the bushing is either in the 3 or 9 oclock position ONLY.
The JR video shows the removal of the lower one where he drives it up from the bottom then has to collapse it so it can be removed since the cut-out in the transom was a little small and the steering arm wouldn't move up any more.. How is the upper bushing removed? That part wasn't covered in the video. The upper bushing is like I said...tough but once you get the side wall colapsed, youo can reach up to it with a good pair of needle nose pliers and twist and pull and it will come out.
Also, in your youtube slideshow, there's a large while doughnut looking thing. What was that? Hmmmmmmmmmm...I have no idea...gotta go have a look and see. I will get back to you on that.
How did your gimble rings look where the square part of the swivel pin engages them? Mine have slop and that's why I'm diving in.. Didn't notice a problem until I hit abt 77 mph for the first time. The slop caused a serious control issue above that speed (no ext steering on mine yet). My gimbals were fine...no excessive wear at all and when I went back together with them, they are now solid with no play in the steering. I tightend up my U-bolts to 50 pounds feet.
Thx for any input!
I did the cutout and had plenty of room with no issues. The only thing I did different than what Ron Bender said was in install studs for the cover plate instead of the screws. I just dont like threading the aluminum and then installing a bolt into it...too easy to strip out the threads. I had no issues with the studs and got everything nice and tight.
02-02-2014, 02:25 PM
#38
I ended up following the video and then noticed I had a new bearing that I had not installed. So I didn't install it. I did end up buying a new stainless pin because the steel one was worn and didn't make sense to me to have a steel one? I hear u need to pull it with a puller.
02-02-2014, 02:35 PM
#39
I'll be doing this project in the coming weeks on my 1990 29 Fountain twin. My engs are already out so I won't be doing any cutting/drilling.
On the upper swivel shaft there's 2 bushing correct? The JR video shows the removal of the lower one where he drives it up from the bottom then has to collapse it so it can be removed since the cut-out in the transom was a little small and the steering arm wouldn't move up any more.. How is the upper bushing removed? That part wasn't covered in the video.
Also, in your youtube slideshow, there's a large while doughnut looking thing. What was that?
How did your gimble rings look where the square part of the swivel pin engages them? Mine have slop and that's why I'm diving in.. Didn't notice a problem until I hit abt 77 mph for the first time. The slop caused a serious control issue above that speed (no ext steering on mine yet).
Thx for any input!
On the upper swivel shaft there's 2 bushing correct? The JR video shows the removal of the lower one where he drives it up from the bottom then has to collapse it so it can be removed since the cut-out in the transom was a little small and the steering arm wouldn't move up any more.. How is the upper bushing removed? That part wasn't covered in the video.
Also, in your youtube slideshow, there's a large while doughnut looking thing. What was that?
How did your gimble rings look where the square part of the swivel pin engages them? Mine have slop and that's why I'm diving in.. Didn't notice a problem until I hit abt 77 mph for the first time. The slop caused a serious control issue above that speed (no ext steering on mine yet).
Thx for any input!
02-02-2014, 04:39 PM
#40
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The puller mentioned was for the upper bearing. You need to get something up through it and grab the edges to pull it down and out. Don't know for sure since I did not replace mine.
