Rewiring Boat
04-08-2014, 10:58 AM
#22
Charter Member
Gotta keep in mind your good quality crimpers aren't a 1tool crimps all. There are crimpers for your cheap PVC automotive terminals, crimpers for the heat shrink terminals, non insulated terminals, battery sized cables...... 
I use a large Greenlee crimper for my battery cables that produce the hex crimp, ( 10awg and larger)and 2 different Ancor brand crimpers for wire terminals, depending on whether they have the heat shrink covering or vinyl insulated terminals. All are ratchet crimpers. They don't release until the crimp is made in full. For those that use the universal crimper, pliers or the hammer/anvil method, you'd really be surprised at the difference of a crimp attained by a tool made just for such. But it comes with a price. The ratchet crimpers start around $60 I believe. This is an newly crimped terminal I cut for a looky see when I rewired my cruiser. (The pics show how tight the crimp is making the wires appear as 1, with no voids between the strands. 2nd pic is just a quick pass with some 1200 grit paper) The wires behind the main circuit panel were originaly all just done with the universal crimpers and PVC terminals. There were several wires that just pull out of the terminal with a slight tug. Voltage loss and resistance, electrical demons= warm wires! Ended up redoing every connection properly.
I use a large Greenlee crimper for my battery cables that produce the hex crimp, ( 10awg and larger)and 2 different Ancor brand crimpers for wire terminals, depending on whether they have the heat shrink covering or vinyl insulated terminals. All are ratchet crimpers. They don't release until the crimp is made in full. For those that use the universal crimper, pliers or the hammer/anvil method, you'd really be surprised at the difference of a crimp attained by a tool made just for such. But it comes with a price. The ratchet crimpers start around $60 I believe. This is an newly crimped terminal I cut for a looky see when I rewired my cruiser. (The pics show how tight the crimp is making the wires appear as 1, with no voids between the strands. 2nd pic is just a quick pass with some 1200 grit paper) The wires behind the main circuit panel were originaly all just done with the universal crimpers and PVC terminals. There were several wires that just pull out of the terminal with a slight tug. Voltage loss and resistance, electrical demons= warm wires! Ended up redoing every connection properly.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 04-08-2014 at 10:21 PM.
04-08-2014, 11:09 PM
#23
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it has 5 separate dies you can change..i got mine from snapon but amazon has it cheaper..i also got the msd ignition wire dies and the octagon ones..http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...F25N05CF36SM4C
04-08-2014, 11:13 PM
#24
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Gotta keep in mind your good quality crimpers aren't a 1tool crimps all. There are crimpers for your cheap PVC automotive terminals, crimpers for the heat shrink terminals, non insulated terminals, battery sized cables......
I use a large Greenlee crimper for my battery cables that produce the hex crimp, ( 10awg and larger)and 2 different Ancor brand crimpers for wire terminals, depending on whether they have the heat shrink covering or vinyl insulated terminals. All are ratchet crimpers. They don't release until the crimp is made in full. For those that use the universal crimper, pliers or the hammer/anvil method, you'd really be surprised at the difference of a crimp attained by a tool made just for such. But it comes with a price. The ratchet crimpers start around $60 I believe. This is an newly crimped terminal I cut for a looky see when I rewired my cruiser. (The pics show how tight the crimp is making the wires appear as 1, with no voids between the strands. 2nd pic is just a quick pass with some 1200 grit paper) The wires behind the main circuit panel were originaly all just done with the universal crimpers and PVC terminals. There were several wires that just pull out of the terminal with a slight tug. Voltage loss and resistance, electrical demons= warm wires! Ended up redoing every connection properly.
I use a large Greenlee crimper for my battery cables that produce the hex crimp, ( 10awg and larger)and 2 different Ancor brand crimpers for wire terminals, depending on whether they have the heat shrink covering or vinyl insulated terminals. All are ratchet crimpers. They don't release until the crimp is made in full. For those that use the universal crimper, pliers or the hammer/anvil method, you'd really be surprised at the difference of a crimp attained by a tool made just for such. But it comes with a price. The ratchet crimpers start around $60 I believe. This is an newly crimped terminal I cut for a looky see when I rewired my cruiser. (The pics show how tight the crimp is making the wires appear as 1, with no voids between the strands. 2nd pic is just a quick pass with some 1200 grit paper) The wires behind the main circuit panel were originaly all just done with the universal crimpers and PVC terminals. There were several wires that just pull out of the terminal with a slight tug. Voltage loss and resistance, electrical demons= warm wires! Ended up redoing every connection properly.
04-11-2014, 07:48 PM
#26
Use this one (style) for the more popular terminals with the colored insulated terminals.Not used for the terminals that have the heat shrink covering. You will cut thru the heat shrink using this tool
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp...0010&id=336039
Use this one for the heat shrink insulated terminals. The jaws are ground smooth so as not to cut the covering, which is the whole reasoning for using heat shrink in the 1st place. This one is a SeaDog brand. Not sure how it compares to Ancor (other than price). Didn't see this tool in Ancor from Defenders
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp...010&id=2187342
These are both rachet type crimpers. one nice feature is that you can insert the terminal and close the tool on it 1 click to hold it while you hold the wire with your other hand. Sometimes that makes it ease to install on the wire when working in tight quarters and with short wire leads.
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp...0010&id=336039
Use this one for the heat shrink insulated terminals. The jaws are ground smooth so as not to cut the covering, which is the whole reasoning for using heat shrink in the 1st place. This one is a SeaDog brand. Not sure how it compares to Ancor (other than price). Didn't see this tool in Ancor from Defenders
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp...010&id=2187342
These are both rachet type crimpers. one nice feature is that you can insert the terminal and close the tool on it 1 click to hold it while you hold the wire with your other hand. Sometimes that makes it ease to install on the wire when working in tight quarters and with short wire leads.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 04-11-2014 at 08:12 PM.
