Well he said not to waste the shipping because i will not be happy with 26s. He said he can try working the rear prop to gain a little more but his concern is I may get the cavitation back.

Im going to run them a little more this weekend and see what i want to do. I just need to hang with more Searay friends so i dont have to worry about my speeds too much lol

What does your boat weight?

Approx 8,200lbs.

Will be interesting to see what your final numbers turn out to be. Your about 2K lighter then me.

Just checked tracking on my props, shows the order went to UPS on the 25th and they have not yet been picked up, wonder what's going on with that

Received the props today, nice and shinny and front props are not as wide as the 3x3.
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Might rain tomorrow but showing it will not come in until after 1pm, so that gives me enough time to put them on and give it a try

Im no pro but i did spend the day in a prop shop friday testing props, your old props look like they have zero cup in them, almost like they are worn out

Agree my old 24 pitch props don't have much of any cup, don't think they ever did. As for worn out, they look pretty much the same as when I put them on. Never were polished, have satin finish.

Will made it out for the test this AM prior to the rain. Boat does come up quicker, still no runabout but I did like that. Cruise went to 3800 rpm at 35 mph, so slip reduced but not much, down to about 19%. WOT rpm back up to 5200 but reached a solid 47 mph, so slip is at 20%.

Put another call into Hill to see if they have any other suggestions, but I'm starting to think the boat is at it's limit without some real drastic change. What that change might be, who knows

You can always try a 1/2" spacer in the drive for shats and giggles.

I don't know, you think it might help to get the drive down further below the keel?

Well, if nothing else it should lower the slip numbers and it would be interesting to see what the results are. How deep is the propshaft now?

The cav plate is in alignment with the bottom of the keel, well at least prior to my rebuild. Didn't drill any new holes so transom plate went back on were it started

Edit:
Just talked to Chad at Hill Marine, he says that since it is a heavy single engine cruiser I'm pretty much the best I can get. While 20% is on the high side, he expects to see 15 to 20 slip on heavy cruisers. Is willing to let me try the 26 pitch but also believes that it will not help, but will hurt hole shot.

^ said the same thing to me. That I would most likely not be happy and end up asking for the 24s back. I am most likely send ing mine back to get tweaked anyways because when I got mine I had some manufacturing dimples. Overall handling is improved but I do not have much to show numbers wise. I would like to try the 26s to set my mind at ease to know i am as good as i can get right now with what I have. He mentioned being able to work the rear prop to get a little more rpm and 1-2mph. Did he mention that to you also?

No he didn't mention that. Sure wish there was a way to hook my boat up to a dyno, it just doesn't seam right, more then 120hp added and does next to nothing better. Engine is running fine but some things just don't add up. Maybe it just is what it is but would sure like an expert to explain why

Dynos are tough because of the inconsistencies from machine to machine. Not one set calibration or tool.

Experts do not want to waste time. We have fat boats that will never be fast..... they say to be happy its in the high 40s or should put that engine in something different.

Seems like you are alot like me. Like things for me.. oh and fat things that aren't supposed to be fast. I am in a long process of repowering my 2500 suburban. Used to be 454 with a Whipple now i converted it to the modern 6.0 and going twin turbo. Also converted it from 4wd to awd for traction. It won't be a 9 sec truck but it will be fast for what it is. The thing is it will keep getting faster as i work on it and add hp. Started stock running 17.3 in the 1/4. Took the 7k truck to 14.7 spinning 22inch wheels thru the 60'. I know I will be faster with the 6.0TT. Weird how the same doesn't apply to the boat..

All Dodge I think you are right that even 120 hp isn't enough to make a difference with that hull. I'm lucky enough to be on a lake with a great prop shop, on Friday I tried 7 props ( 4 blades and 3 blades) the best gain from current was 3 mph trimmed up higher than I would be comfortable with. Some great improvements in the mid range where I gained 5 mph at 3000 and 3500 rpm but that same prop wouldn't let me rev past 4400 so my top speed was the same and the nose was plowing. We decided to add some cup to my current 4 blade to drop rpm by 200 for slight economy improvement and mid range performance where I use it most and call it a day. For $120 bucks it makes the most sense. My fat ass hull simply doesn't respond to performance or prop improvements unless they are significant. The worst part of the day is I forgot one prop on the swim platform and lost it so I ended up buying a prop anyway, what an idiot.

Ya know stimleck your probably right but add 120 and gain nothing (with 3x3 and going from 24 to 26 pitch) is just to hard to swallow. Add another blade and go to 4x4 and gain 1mph isn't much. BTW the 1mph was done with less the a 1/4 tank and only me in the boat.

I posted a new thread on iboats in the prop section, was told there is a guy over there which has a lot of knowledge with heavy boats and props.

I think somebody said something like this was likely to happen at the beginning of this thread.:party-smiley-004:

For me it was 100 hp same result smaller boat

You also went from a standard Bravo to an XR which is eating up some of that additional HP.

All, although I've followed this thread I don't remember weather you modified the throttle body? If not, that is a big restriction on that set up.

Well, I know that's a deep subject for this shallow mind.

Griff, agree early on in the thread it was said this would be a waste of money and I should go buy another boat. Reason to not buy another was simple, I like this one, and it would cost a minimum of 80K to get another, my guess more, and then I have another set of unknown problems.

Stimleck, agree it could be as simple as the boat was doing max with one engine, and not much else would help. That is other then have two engines, test shown a 27PC with two 320HP engines does 50 MPH. But that said they have a lot more weight but also have more blade surface in the water

Knot also agree, the XR takes more HP then the standard but it isn't that much more is it (5 to 10HP)?

liquid, Nothing was done with the throttle body, yet the engine "dyno paper work" says it produced 545HP and 617 TQ. Original engine was stock 415HP MPI and was not dynode, also was running real rich. My guess would be maybe it had 400 if that.

In all its probably a lesson learned. Wanted more power, got more, felt real good in the beginning about having a pro do the work. In the end it cost in the range if 43K for everything, well only paid 48K for the boat in 2000. Maybe I'll get another 15 years out of it.

I do have a lot of spare parts to sell now, maybe I can recoup some of it :lolhit:

AllDodge - you aren't the only one feeling this pain. Three years ago my Scarab 3 ran 52mph at 4600 rpm with old 365mags with 22p Bravo props. Last year it ran same but after upgrading motors to 500hp on dyno. I know I had carb issues with running rich but season ended before really tuning it in. This year I added 177 blowers and new carbs, 64mph at 5k rpm with 24p Bravo 1 props. An increase, YES, but not as much as I thought I would have over the tired 365mags. dyno now says 630hp. I'm almost done "chasing it". I'm going to try new exhaust tips, right now I have the Corsa quiet tips that have the double pancake baffle in each. I'm thinking this might be hurting the WOT with too much back pressure.

anyways, I'm sticking with this boat as I now now it inside and out and I'll just deal with the speed I have........for a while to come.

Had the same tips on mine and builder said I they needed to go, to restrictive, I would suggest stainless turn downs, I really like them and very well made

Have to agree but sure wish someone would have explained this to me when I started. I would have still rebuilt the motor, but would have done it my self and wouldn't try for 500 + HP

All Dodge.

Lets back up a little, if you have a honest 120 more hp you should go faster.

Is the power real? (as in when installed does it make the noted power)?
Can you run a XR bravo 1 lower instead of a bravo 3?
Does the boat have a hook?
Is the bottom reasonably smooth?
How deep is the drive? Do you need to raise it?

I would love to see this boat make some gains.

Cheers,

Is it making 120 more? well the paper work says it did, and I have no reason to doubt other then the boat isn't doing much different

I could install a B1 but it has a hard enough time coming up with the B3, and there is less blade area

Yes the boat has a slight hook on the out side edges, about 2 foot on each side

Bottom is fairly smooth, put some fresh bottom paint on it after sanding before it went back in the water this June

The drive is where it was from factory install, the cav plate is at the bottom edge of the keel. Will take another look when I pull it out in a month or two

Have friends over this week end. With almost 3/4 tank gas, 7 folks on board she came right up, sure it was a few seconds slower but she did come up. This boat has never come up that smooth with this amount of weight. So I will say it does have more torque, and the new prop is working

It would be interesting to see what it would do with a Bravo 1 and a bravo 4 blade prop.

Chris

What all was done to the engines for the power increase?

engines were done by eddy young, they can be taken out of the equation because they will be exactly as promised by him

Well you should have said that at the very beginning and he could have saved that dyno money

Was not an option, was listed as part of the first bill handed to me in the beginning.

With 20% slip as is I don't believe raising the drive height would be a good idea.

I think I would find someone with some scuba equipment to go down and get that prop if I were you. What was the water depth, and did you have a GPS available so you could mark your location? I have had a friend who is a diver go down and get lost anchors for me in the past for beer money. :)

Hey AllDodge, any updates or more testing? I have tried a few times to email Chad Hill with no response, I am not content with locking it in as the best I can get because with being able to get to run the top end a bit finally that the bay wasn't too snotty I lost some mph from the Merc 4x3s I had on there. Boat comes up on plane really quick, with some to trade off for sure but waiting on a response. I guess I have to try calling again. I called once and they said he wasn't in but after I said I haven't heard back from him in weeks via email they said oh wait let me transfer you and he was in the building but couldn't talk long because he was leaving.

I do like the way the boat comes out of the water, the Hill 4x4 props are great. Still no more top end but I can live with how it comes up now. Thinking I might pull it out and winterize next week and put my Rinker in for the remainder of the season. Once it comes out I'll have a closer look at how the drive sits and see if there has been some kind of change I over looked.

Bought one of Hill's Bravo 3 prop wrenches, another nice piece of work. Only issue is the 1 7/16 socket is not deep enough to use with the newer style nut that also holds a zinc. Called them up and they are going to make me another and swap it out. The longer nuts would only be used by folks that leave their boats in the water so I guess that's why they haven't come across the issue. They have a 1/2 dive hole on the end so someone could use a torque wrench. I just use the torque wrench setting on my elbow ;)

If you zoom in to the right on this pic you can see what I use. My prop shaft is drilled and tapped for the bullet zinc. I found a 3/4" impact socket that I have a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter on for the outer nut and the Merc socket for the inner nut. 100 ft. lbs. for the inner nut and 60 ft. lbs. for the outer.

I almost went the two socket direction and have the 1 7/16 socket (3/4 drive) using an adapter. Just after seeing the quality Hill puts into their goods, just went that way
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Got a reply from Chad late yesterday and he is going to try doing some work on them to get me some more rpm and speed. They are on their way back to cali currently.

Sure is taking a while to get a response from OSO on a reply. I'm starting to look into pulling the motor and getting another dyno done. I just cannot get past the thought of adding 120 HP and gain nothing. Yes I have better hole shot, but for years my motor was running rich and the rebuild did fix it. So now it is running efficiently but I just cannot get past the extra power and no gain.

I would have had it out already if it was a 2 hour pull, but this is a 4 to 6 hour pull because I have to take a bunch of stuff off just to get it out. Don't want to want another couple years and finally get around to doing it and then if its less HP then the statement will be, it was but now its not.

Got to talk to my help and see if he is up for it, looking at to dyno shops in KY, so if it happens I'll post up

Were you sent any pics or otherwise told how it was dyno'd as far as what accessories were installed or what exhaust was used?

No, only told used a smaller belt so the PS pump wasn't used and it used dry headers.