That and clean all the connector bars off then put a good dielectric greese over everything.

So following the most excellent advise given here I pulled the breaker panel out to start:




I powered up everything (more on this later) then inspected the underside of the panel and the breakers wiring. As you can see the one on the right has some pretty rusty connections but that one is for the "tab pump".



Moving down the row of breakers I find the one marked "cockpit power" looks like this (second one from the left):



Since evertyhing was powered up I felt each wire and the little jumper was actually warm to the touch where the others were not. The wire on the same terminal as the left side of the jumper (the other melted looking one) was actually loose and could be moved back and forth. The rusted screw attaching it could not be tightened any more or even loosened for removal it is completely frozen.

Another view of the "cockpit power" breaker and its awesomeness:





I basically had to destroy it to remove it sooooo....

Where can I buy these or a decent price? Does anyone have any recommendations on who sells them for a good price? The best price I found so far is about $25 each. I want to replace all of them since I would be stupid not to at this point.



I will need the following according to the part numbers on them:

"KLIXTON CDM-40" x 5
"KLIXTON CDM-20" x 1


HOPEFULLY this was and is the end of this problem but obviously I can't proceed with further testing until this is corrected!

Maybe try sick stinger or smokin gun here on the forum, they recycle many boat parts.

I've had good luck finding them on the online electronics stores. I think Bussman makes a similar breaker also. That is a common failure for components of that vintage.
Remember .... manufacturers build boats hard and fast. That's how the make money. Sometimes Quality is sacrificed for Profit.

Follow thos wires, you may find that there are also connectors to the main harness. They will be just as bad.

As for the breakers, all you need are the same size (rating). May try Fountain.

Be sure the full time breaker is replaced with a 20A one, and 40 for the rest. You don't want to protect a 20A circuit with a 40A breaker. That'd make the wire the fuse.

I'd use quality crimps too, not your cheap AutoZone crimps. GenuineDealz is the bomb for electrical needs. They also carry the breakers but appears out of stock on the 20's and 40's.

I ordered them here: https://www.commongroundmarine.com/index.php they were $25 each which is prolly as good as I will get them for. I wonder if I have a main harness? But after you brought it up I better find out and check the connections to be safe! Thanks!

I ordered them all, might as well do it right the first time. Do you happen to know what gauge I will need for the crimps and with what size ring they will need? By using higher quality ones are you referring to the heat shrink type? Just need to know what to order to do this job properly and I forgot to get a sample of what gauge wire and terminal size is already in there....oops!

You are right that Genuinedealz place has everything! When I figure out what terminals/ connectors/ wire I need I will order from them!

For ring size look at the new breakers you ordered, when I get home at the end of the week I can tell you what stock was. I think #8 ring on 10-12 awg.

You at the very least always want to use a sealed type of crimp. I use ones that are crimped and soldered. When you heat them up they seal and solder. Fastnel has them but are expensive.

Also gendealz is book marked, great place to get wire by the foot!

One last thing, you may want to check those switches also, you wouldn't believe how much better new ones work and my boat is a 2000.

Higher quality. Thicker copper and better insulator.

I'd buy bare ring terminals, crimp them, solder them and then shrink wrap them. Then install with di-electric grease as previosly stated.