tgell001

makes sense that the drop is really quick and minuscule and thats why it appears to do nothing. problem with my diagnostic tool is the RPM isn't on the same screen as the test is so I can't view both at the same time.

The only test I haven't done related to fuel is an injector test (which I can't do with the equipment I have). Everything checks out fine. I guess i could check the tank side of the pump and ensure there isn't an obstruction. How much vacuum would I expect on the suction side of the pump?

BUP

iTrader: (9)

I have and offer professional fuel injector testing and flow testing and cleaning services. I have a semi custom machine and have been doing it now for 6 years. just saying.

What sensor(s) have you changed ? Ok have go now - I had to fix a post of mine wording so possible reread

BUP

iTrader: (9)

496 any of them can get rusted internal fuel rail(s) then kill or restrict the fuel injectors.

Your original cool fuel probable internally peeled paint and clogged the injectors either way this or internal rusted fuel rails caused possible fuel injector restrictors and or bad ? just saying and worth a look / along with having them tested

tgell001

1. I've only changed the camshaft position sensor

2. I have not pulled the plugs yet

3. I dont think available power is available on my scan tool, if it is, I haven't stumbled onto it yet (techmate pro) If it is on there can someone tell me where.

4. closed loop cooling, i winterized per the manual, and i ran a heater under the lid set on 50 all winter, and it ran fine for multiple outings before this problem reared it ugly head, so i'm assuming its not a problem resulting from winterization. If you read my original post I give a play by play with what happened when this all started.

5. It did have a crankshaft position sensor code stored when i first hooked up the scanner but hasn't shown back up since I cleared it 4 weeks ago.

As far as coils and injectors, I'm trying to pin point the problem without throwing parts at it. The only thing I did between running fine and running like crap is pull the fuel pump and put it back in. That is if you ignore the surging and stalling in that once instance (because it ran the rest of the day fine). Again, I gave a play by play in my original post.

I appreciate the timely response but dont get fired over me haha. And whats your cost for cleaning and testing injectors and whats your turnaround time?

tunertech

get your VOM out and test the resistance across each injector and coil pack.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

Before you go any further - I want to know the year that is stickered or stamped on the engine was made or least year model of the boat ? Then I want to know which cam sensor you put in the engine for a reason and thats reason I kept asking what sensor(s) you changed ?

Where you bought the cam sensor - part number of it and what make of it ? again cam sensor - at the moment I can careless about anything else.

I somewhat have to laugh about your words draining your bank account not wanting to bring your boat in to get it fixed properly.

Its a boat, it already drained your bank account and not running properly for weeks on end is like throwing money out the window plus possible a lot od wear and tear on the engine that is going to create more problems if continue running it. That alone is a big tip in itself as I am saying this with many years to give this as solid advise. A boat owner with 1 problem that turns into a major problem or 10 problems because he thinks he knows better. Just saying and not finger pointing..

8 injectors is 200 bucks to test / flow test / and clean then retest all of them again. - shipping is including on my way back to you. Sometimes if they are really bad - you are better off buying new. I have new ones in Stock and they are not internet junk nor china junk copy injectors.

For the 496 app all of mine are Delphi - straight thru their distributor.

tgell001

Engine is 2004 GXi-D S/N 3869264, Boat is a 1996 Cobalt 253.

This is the camshaft sensor I installed
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PC620 from RockAuto.com
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 12568983, 12585545, 12591720, 38085130, 8125689830, 892615001
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=107&jpid=0

Its nothing against experienced marine mechanics at all, I just rarely pay mechanics to do anything. I want to exhaust all my efforts before I raise the white flag, part of me thinks its something stupid I'm just not thinking of. In addition to wanted to fix this problem myself, I do not have a mechanic locally I trust. Ballin' on a budget is hard work.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

So when you installed this cam sensor did you have the spacer with it ? Also did the O ring come with it ?

Not sure if this is the correct cam sensor either from Standard. I do not care that they have the Volvo part listed plus they have a 0 on the end of it. Volvo part number is 3808513 and requires a spacer and correct O-ring


Not make a story book writing here, but GM had NLA the earlier cam sensors. Anyways your engine year is close to the NLA cam sensor. I would have to see the GM block codes on the side of the engine to know exactly what sensor is required. Volvo does list the cam sensor with the spacer. You need the spacer for the cam sensor regardless. Volvo does not sell it separately.

Without looking at this all over and trying to fix your engine blind - it is very possible I would buy what Volvo has for the cam sensor / O ring / spacer and make sure your connector is good and is the correct connector to make the connection into the cam sensor.

The earlier 496 cam sensors have been a big problem for x amount of years because GM NLA them for certain reasons. I do not want to get into those reasons. AND YES I do know the reasons for the early NLA cam sensors and the change to crank sensor to.

donzi matt

iTrader: (1)

http://www.raylarengineering.com/vor...aft-gears.html

This page can help you visualize the changes in cam sensors that BUP is describing.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

hell had no idea they had that up from Raylar .

The reluctor for the cam sensor changed about 3 or 4 times within 5 years for the 496. I known they changed the crank reluctor at least once or twice as well - GM did all that.