What causes a lifter tie bar to break
#21
Just bought a brand new spring tester, not going to rely on old one, should be here tomorrow
On another note Cams are just 791's 2* advanced, but looking up Cranes recommended dual spring it shows I'm a little short on the open pressure.
Crane recommended spring is 150# on the seat and 560 open, I've got 210 and 523 per Comp.......... could be my problem
What I find really interesting is how light a spring the recommended beehive spring is, might be a nice upgrade since its apart
On another note Cams are just 791's 2* advanced, but looking up Cranes recommended dual spring it shows I'm a little short on the open pressure.
Crane recommended spring is 150# on the seat and 560 open, I've got 210 and 523 per Comp.......... could be my problem
What I find really interesting is how light a spring the recommended beehive spring is, might be a nice upgrade since its apart
Last edited by Sonic30ss; 10-05-2015 at 08:05 PM.
#22
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 73
From: chicago
Just bought a brand new spring tester, not going to rely on old one, should be here tomorrow
On another note Cams are just 791's 2* advanced, but looking up Cranes recommended dual spring it shows I'm a little short on the open pressure.
Crane recommended spring is 150# on the seat and 560 open, I've got 210 and 523 per Comp.......... could be my problem
What I find really interesting is how light a spring the recommended beehive spring is, might be a nice upgrade since its apart
On another note Cams are just 791's 2* advanced, but looking up Cranes recommended dual spring it shows I'm a little short on the open pressure.
Crane recommended spring is 150# on the seat and 560 open, I've got 210 and 523 per Comp.......... could be my problem
What I find really interesting is how light a spring the recommended beehive spring is, might be a nice upgrade since its apart
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24234
Last edited by MILD THUNDER; 10-05-2015 at 08:19 PM.
#23
Are talking about this cam?? I'm seeing 498lbs open. If thats the cam, and you have springs calling for .690 max lift, you may have been playing with fire, as while theoretically, you will have .680 lift with a 1.7 rocker with that cam, but, do you really? or is it more? Was it checked?
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24234
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24234
No this one 168791
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24287
This is spring
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=26253
Last edited by Sonic30ss; 10-05-2015 at 08:46 PM.
#24
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 73
From: chicago
No this one 168791
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24287
This is spring
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=26253
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24287
This is spring
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=26253
That is a small cam for a 540 btw! and its advanced?
#25
Yes I know it's small, but they have 502 mpi intakes (with cut down dividers and maybe extrude honing, the runners are very very smooth) how much air are they going to flow?
Yes there was a Cloyes Hexadjust gear 2* advanced
Feeling the need to forget about trying to figure out what happened and start from scratch, cams, lifters, rebuild heads with matched components, ditch the 502 intakes
#26
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 73
From: chicago
Pretty hard to say what in fact really happened here. If you truly have the "morel" PBM race style lifters, and the body cracked, I'd like to think something is wrong, seriously wrong to have caused that. That is a stout lifter. But, like anything, chit happens. Bad geometry, spring setup, lifter collapsing, incorrect lifter bore clearance, simply a part failure, etc.
I guess it depends on what your goals are. You certainly have the cubic inch, and cylinder heads, for an easy 600-650HP + build. I do think you are camshaft and induction limited currently.
I guess it depends on what your goals are. You certainly have the cubic inch, and cylinder heads, for an easy 600-650HP + build. I do think you are camshaft and induction limited currently.
#28
Pretty hard to say what in fact really happened here. If you truly have the "morel" PBM race style lifters, and the body cracked, I'd like to think something is wrong, seriously wrong to have caused that. That is a stout lifter. But, like anything, chit happens. Bad geometry, spring setup, lifter collapsing, incorrect lifter bore clearance, simply a part failure, etc.
I guess it depends on what your goals are. You certainly have the cubic inch, and cylinder heads, for an easy 600-650HP + build. I do think you are camshaft and induction limited currently.
I guess it depends on what your goals are. You certainly have the cubic inch, and cylinder heads, for an easy 600-650HP + build. I do think you are camshaft and induction limited currently.
It's a heavy boat, top speed is not my main concern. Based on 60 hrs of running this season, the boato just likes 40 mph cruise, hull gets up on top and smooths out. This took 3800-4000 rpm to do with 28 p B 3, topped out at 51 @ 4950. If I could make more (reliable) power to get cruise rpm down I would be happy and hey if it picks up a few on top I won't argue.
#29
I reread the thread and did not see listed that u are running the taller lifters.. off your cam card.
Remarks:
CRANE 16535-16 LONG TRAVEL HYDRAULIC ROLLER LIFTERS MUST BE USED WITH GREATER THAN .570 LIFT CAMSHAFTS TO PREVENT ALIGNMENT BAR
Remarks:
CRANE 16535-16 LONG TRAVEL HYDRAULIC ROLLER LIFTERS MUST BE USED WITH GREATER THAN .570 LIFT CAMSHAFTS TO PREVENT ALIGNMENT BAR



