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What causes a lifter tie bar to break

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What causes a lifter tie bar to break

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Old 10-05-2015 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
Comp, but, really...You, when you measure it yourself.
Just bought a brand new spring tester, not going to rely on old one, should be here tomorrow

On another note Cams are just 791's 2* advanced, but looking up Cranes recommended dual spring it shows I'm a little short on the open pressure.
Crane recommended spring is 150# on the seat and 560 open, I've got 210 and 523 per Comp.......... could be my problem
What I find really interesting is how light a spring the recommended beehive spring is, might be a nice upgrade since its apart

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Old 10-05-2015 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sonic30ss
Just bought a brand new spring tester, not going to rely on old one, should be here tomorrow

On another note Cams are just 791's 2* advanced, but looking up Cranes recommended dual spring it shows I'm a little short on the open pressure.
Crane recommended spring is 150# on the seat and 560 open, I've got 210 and 523 per Comp.......... could be my problem
What I find really interesting is how light a spring the recommended beehive spring is, might be a nice upgrade since its apart
Are talking about this cam?? I'm seeing 498lbs open. If thats the cam, and you have springs calling for .690 max lift, you may have been playing with fire, as while theoretically, you will have .680 lift with a 1.7 rocker with that cam, but, do you really? or is it more? Was it checked?

http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24234

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Old 10-05-2015 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
Are talking about this cam?? I'm seeing 498lbs open. If thats the cam, and you have springs calling for .690 max lift, you may have been playing with fire, as while theoretically, you will have .680 lift with a 1.7 rocker with that cam, but, do you really? or is it more? Was it checked?

http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24234


No this one 168791
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24287


This is spring
http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=26253

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Old 10-05-2015 | 09:11 PM
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Sure, that spring is rated at 560 open, but at 1.150. With that cam, you will not see that open pressure. The cam card itself, recommends a 150/405 open (at max valve lift).

That is a small cam for a 540 btw! and its advanced?
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Old 10-05-2015 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
Sure, that spring is rated at 560 open, but at 1.150. With that cam, you will not see that open pressure. The cam card itself, recommends a 150/405 open (at max valve lift).

That is a small cam for a 540 btw! and its advanced?
So do you think that the existing springs will suffice? That it just a bad lifter or lifters? I looked them up and they are supposedly made by morel.

Yes I know it's small, but they have 502 mpi intakes (with cut down dividers and maybe extrude honing, the runners are very very smooth) how much air are they going to flow?

Yes there was a Cloyes Hexadjust gear 2* advanced

Feeling the need to forget about trying to figure out what happened and start from scratch, cams, lifters, rebuild heads with matched components, ditch the 502 intakes
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Old 10-05-2015 | 10:15 PM
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Pretty hard to say what in fact really happened here. If you truly have the "morel" PBM race style lifters, and the body cracked, I'd like to think something is wrong, seriously wrong to have caused that. That is a stout lifter. But, like anything, chit happens. Bad geometry, spring setup, lifter collapsing, incorrect lifter bore clearance, simply a part failure, etc.

I guess it depends on what your goals are. You certainly have the cubic inch, and cylinder heads, for an easy 600-650HP + build. I do think you are camshaft and induction limited currently.
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Old 10-05-2015 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Sonic30ss
Yes there was a Cloyes Hexadjust gear 2* advanced
w/o degreeing the cam,the 2° advance show on the gear could just be getting the cam straight up.
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Old 10-06-2015 | 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
Pretty hard to say what in fact really happened here. If you truly have the "morel" PBM race style lifters, and the body cracked, I'd like to think something is wrong, seriously wrong to have caused that. That is a stout lifter. But, like anything, chit happens. Bad geometry, spring setup, lifter collapsing, incorrect lifter bore clearance, simply a part failure, etc.

I guess it depends on what your goals are. You certainly have the cubic inch, and cylinder heads, for an easy 600-650HP + build. I do think you are camshaft and induction limited currently.
They say PBM on the tie bar, maybe not race lifter

It's a heavy boat, top speed is not my main concern. Based on 60 hrs of running this season, the boato just likes 40 mph cruise, hull gets up on top and smooths out. This took 3800-4000 rpm to do with 28 p B 3, topped out at 51 @ 4950. If I could make more (reliable) power to get cruise rpm down I would be happy and hey if it picks up a few on top I won't argue.
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Old 10-06-2015 | 07:29 AM
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I reread the thread and did not see listed that u are running the taller lifters.. off your cam card.

Remarks:
CRANE 16535-16 LONG TRAVEL HYDRAULIC ROLLER LIFTERS MUST BE USED WITH GREATER THAN .570 LIFT CAMSHAFTS TO PREVENT ALIGNMENT BAR
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Old 10-06-2015 | 08:03 AM
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at this point I would contact Bob M. and talk it over with him...
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