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DIY - Duramax Marinisation

Old 08-11-2017, 01:35 PM
  #171  
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Default Wiring 101

Ok kiddies, as promised, it's time to do some wiring.

Just so happens I acquired an OEM truck harness that's previously been converted to a "stand alone" harness for a boat. Since this one is close to straight out of a truck, seems like a good place to start.

Our donor vehicle was a 2009 LMM (engine code "6") which debuted mid year 2007, and ended production with the switch to the LML model in 2011. This harness is very similar to the popular LBZ (2006-2007), which was last model produced before adding DPF and other required emissions hardware.

LBZ harness has been the go to setup for many engine swaps, and only used for a year and a half, it's getting harder to find em. So I prefer the LMM for a few reasons we'll get into later. Just keep in mind the LBZ (E35A) and LMM (E35B) ECM's look identical. Only difference is internal software and identification sticker on the front. So you can get away with mix and matching MOST of the related wiring...

For ease of following along, we'll use the free and easily downloadable PDF file: Electrical Manual 2009 light Duty Full Size C/K Trucks
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Old 08-12-2017, 01:08 AM
  #172  
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Because this new forum layout doesn't use same inline image placing as previous, I'm gonna break these posts up a bit until I figure it out better.

First thing we need to do is identify all the important parts of the engine and chassis harness. Most likely you'll be be starting with a factory wired engine, and everything else stripped from a truck. So lets look at the main engine harness connectors. All LB7-LML models have two main engine harness connectors on top the drivers side valve cover. These two plugs contain about 90% of the main engine wiring. Couple things like alternator control and oil level sensor are not in these connectors. But pretty much everything important connects here.

It should also be noted that these connectors changed with every new engine model. So you can't use a LMM engine harness with a LLY truck harness. Not even the LBZ / LMM which are identical internals, share same engine harness connectors. The models years can easily be identified by color and shape differences. But hey at least ya can't mess up, cause they won't connect. Just an FYI when your digging up harness parts...
Attached Thumbnails DIY - Duramax Marinisation-main-engine-harness-connectors.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20170811_224635.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20170811_224738.jpg  

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Old 08-12-2017, 01:48 AM
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If you're like me with everything spread out on the shop floor, you should have two large piles of wire now. One harness pulled off the engine, other harness with the ECM, TCM, fuse box, and throttle pedal wiring.

Now lets identify all the important modules. On the engine side the only thing of interest is the going to be the Glow Plug Control Module. It's also mounted on the drivers side valve cover near the rear of the engine. Since this harness is off the engine at the moment, I removed the main heavy duty power supply wire that connects to the high amperage breakers. But it's labeled in a pic below.

Running glow plugs or the control module is not a requirement on any year Duramax. They will normally start and run fine without it, long as it's above like 30F. Which pretty much covers the majority of boating situations.. But for anyone rigging an icebreaker, or wants a quicker start up in chilly weather, leave it in tact and you'll be fine.

The only other things you need to know about the GPM, it's controlled by serial data from the ECM. On the LMM and newer, the injector flow rate calibration figures are stored in the GPM along with ECM. So if you change any injectors, you'll need to update it and the ECM with a Tech2 to make everything happy and not set a code.
Attached Thumbnails DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20170811_224815.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20170811_224834.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-glow-plug-module.jpg  

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Old 08-12-2017, 02:13 AM
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Over on the chassis harness, we have all the other important modules. Depending on year, the ECM will have 2 or 3 connectors. Since we are focusing on the LBZ/LMM model, there is only two. X-1 [96 pin] and X-2 [58 pin]. Pinouts listed in section C-11 or page 151 of the wiring document listed above.

Right beside the ECM plugs is the large TCM connector. I am going to strip it out of this harness since not running an Allison transmission. After helping out on a Duramax boat with an Allison setup, I can safely say it's not worth the trouble. The designers never planned for it to be used in a boat, and it shows.. PPE did one with it in front of a bravo XR setup, which sure sounds cool being it offers two overdrive gears. But even on an ASD8 drive, it became a total PITA. Was great for docking however.. lol
Attached Thumbnails DIY - Duramax Marinisation-ecm-connectors.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20170811_005744.jpg  

Last edited by kidturbo; 08-12-2017 at 02:19 AM.
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Old 08-17-2017, 06:27 AM
  #175  
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OK Kid if you can get me some photos of the modified ASD8 that would be great.
You will probably remember I cant fit a quick change box on the back of my gearboxes due to lack of room, ideally a 6" external drop unit similar to the SCS would be ideal as theirs is a 14" drop.
It would be great to be able to pop the cover off and change gears sets to suit various condition, props and power levels.
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Old 08-17-2017, 01:12 PM
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Can do Jay.
I'm heading out shortly to go Dyno a new Duramax build. It's getting coupled to a HamiltonJet pump. Should be a pretty interesting build, but HJ needs an exact torque curve map to build the screw. So I'll email my friend for some new pics while on the road.

I believe Bor may have some recent pictures of that ASD8 drop box assembly also, he's been chatting with the owner about buying it. I can vouch for the reliability of that drop mod, since it's outlasted everything in front of it making up to 1800lb ft of torque so far... Gearing is 1:1 ratio also.

Last edited by kidturbo; 08-17-2017 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:17 PM
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Spent yesterday dyno testing an engine we just finished for a customers jet boat build. Since it's the conclusion of everything covered in this thread, I was planning to hold off and post video near the end. But,It performed so nicely I wanted to share it.

This engine is an LBZ/LMM based platform with Mahle cast race pistons, upgraded oiling, and aftermarket valve springs mods. Fueling it stock CP3 with +%50 injector tips. Turbo is GT4094R fed by our own built in house water cooled exhaust. Basically identical build to my old Warlock setup.

Customer requested it make 500hp with a 3200-3600 redline. First pull it did 604hp and 1100lbft torque. It took several adjustments, but we finally got it turned down to 540hp / 1019lbft torque, with max EGT's in the low 1300F fully loaded.

Final run video:
Attached Thumbnails DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20170818_093028.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20170818_095858.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20170818_120428.jpg  

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Old 08-22-2017, 08:08 PM
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Couple of data logs from Fridays runs. 542hp/1019ft-lb, and a earlier 560hp pull.

Then back to your regularly scheduled programing.
Attached Thumbnails DIY - Duramax Marinisation-540_tune_details.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-540_tune_max_torque.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-560hp_details.jpg  

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Old 08-23-2017, 02:16 AM
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Next module on our GM harness is the Accelerator Pedal Positions (APP) sensor. Also called APPS.

The APP sensor is mounted on the firewall under the dash. Attached to that big pedal ya push to go faster... The APP connector is not actually part of the chassis harness. The six wires from the APP sensor connect to the ECM via the X109 connector near the fuse block and shown below.

The APP sensor pictured below has been fitted with a lengthened arm to work with a cable connection from typical helm control. Two important things to note about the APP are: The sweep range of an OEM APP is much shorter than a standard throttle body or carb setup that most helm controls are built for. So you'll need to do some mock up testing before final assembly to insure full range of lever travel at the helm. Second thing to note, the OEM APP has a built in return spring, which may need to be removed for marine use. From my experience, the spring is just strong enough to be annoying. Sometimes it's fine, until you hit some waves and it starts backing down the throttle automatically for ya.

As posted several pages back, there is now an electronic Livorsi throttle option with built in GM calibrated APP sensor. Allowing you to ditch the cable and run the six APP connector wires directly to the helm. I have the throttle part numbers, and make a little adapter cable if you need plug and play ease of install. Either style setup will work fine, just take time to verify throttle slope and lever travel before bolting the APP sensor and cable mounts down solid.
Attached Thumbnails DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20170811_005655.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20170812_004223.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-x109.jpg  

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Old 08-23-2017, 02:32 AM
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Now that we've covered the important modules on the harness, we can move onto the power, grounds, and required relays to make everything run happily in a boat. I was going to use the example harness with fuse block above, then found out why it's easier to scrap the OEM fuse block. They are prone to connector corrosion issues, and that one had developed some since pulled from last build. So it's cut out now...

Rather than explain pinout wire by wire with poor quality photos, I found a great 4 part engine swap YouTube video that someone put together several years ago. This series explains it all exactly as I was planning, but faster and with options to pause and rewind. So I'll pick up where he is cutting the unused wires from his harness.

Thanks Carl..

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