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DIY - Duramax Marinisation

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Old 04-10-2016, 02:44 PM
  #41
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Originally Posted by Blueabyss View Post
Most Factory Marine Diesel engines have after coolers on them. How are addressing that issue?

Chris
Charge cooling gets it's own section... Since one of last pieces to choose, saving it for later.
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Old 04-10-2016, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 999JAY View Post
In comparison to a Seatek that makes 700-1200hp the rods look small, Seateks are only 6 cylinder though.
I was down there checking out the 700hp Cummins that Innovation builds last month. Didn't take any pictures, but their big C rods are very similar to those. That big end is a better design than GM's IMO. Ford uses it, as does the new Ecodiesel V6. It takes some load off the bolts. Innovation was using a Monotherm piston also, with great success I'll add..
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Old 04-10-2016, 04:48 PM
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Default Oiling System

Next topic short and sweet, oiling system components.

Oil cooling and filter locations are pretty straight forward to anyone who's owned a performance boat. If converting from a BBC application, the cooler you have may fit this build. I don't care for the Merc plate style cooler in bellhousing due to design and size. Since managing oil temps is probably the most important part of our conversion, it needs to be done right the first time. A screw up here will come back to bite you guaranteed. As I can attest to personally.

Since we scrapped our factory oil cooler and filter, lets put some good parts back in place. Starting with our PPE marine block adapter, note the 3/4" -12AN fittings and temp sensor port. No Duramax powered truck to date has came from the factory with an oil temp senor.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]553881[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553882[/ATTACH]


My setup used the Hardin 620-650 unit below. I never saw oil temps hit 200f, was typically in the 160-185f range. Some guys will say that's too cold to evaporate any moisture from the oil. However that sensor location reads oil returning to the block, so oil temp was never a problem for me ether way. Just buy a good cooler if yours BBC unit is much small than these. That small chamber on the cooler was designed for power steering, I used it for cooling fuel returning to the tank.

When checking the part# of my cooler from Hardin Marine I noticed this statement in bold letters on every performance model. I agree 100%
Note: Never use smaller than a 3/4" NPT oil connection on engine coolers.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553883[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553884[/ATTACH]

For remote oil filter setup, my build used the HP6 filter head. Never an issue, but I think the HP4 style would do just fine also. More likely to have a filter in stock if in a bind at some 3rd world parts store.. Both head units will accept those -12AN 3/4" fittings.

HP6 Billet Remote Oil Filter Mount - Left & Right Ports For HP6 Filters
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553868[/ATTACH]

Hamburg Racing remote filter head.
-Ideal For Race, Diesel and Marine applications.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553871[/ATTACH]

I always ran the HP6 series Wix 51222R racing filters with a built in bypass. A local race shop kept them in stock.

---

Last point here I want to stress is the lines and fittings. My boat came with braided hydraulic lines that were made up with Parker "field attachable" two piece screw together ends. Stab fittings they are called in the industry. Never leaked once, just caused two spun rod bearings, trashed my crank and probably helped out with the burnt pistons...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553877[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553878[/ATTACH]

That quarter size piece of rubber came from inside the oil filter return line, and was found in the main oil passage of the block by #1 main bearing passage after the "3rd" tear down. Took a year of work to find that little sucker.. I should have caught it first time when she carried 50psi oil pressure with two rod bearings missing. What's worse, two different machine shops missed it cleaning the block between rebuilds... I call that my $10k souvenir, and have never lost track of where it's kept... LOL.

Long story short, don't use stab fittings, they are prone to pealing the hose apart inside on assembly. I switched to crimped hydraulic -12AN ends when I made up new lines after finding that issue. Earls fittings are fine, and I think Parker even discourages using those stab fittings now. My advice, Just pay someone to make up good lines, then run a scope down them before assembly to insure they are clean and free of potential problems. You can thank me later.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553879[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553880[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails
DIY - Duramax Marinisation-ktk-hp6brm-hp6filter12an_270x202.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-ex_q75_w501_h501_images_epim_original_3301.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-fit-bu_zm.jpg  

DIY - Duramax Marinisation-iphone-109.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-71xl4aqqy4l._sl1500_.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-swivelend_6.jpg  

DIY - Duramax Marinisation-oilcoolerdelete.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-iphone-041.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-normal_20130922_160856.jpg  

DIY - Duramax Marinisation-620-650.jpg  

Last edited by kidturbo; 04-10-2016 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:54 PM
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Default Fuel System

Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire!

How about 30,000psi of coal roll'n smoke all over your buddies 500+ cubic inch blown big block. That's what this little 403ci monster does best. Probably the coolest words you'll ever hear on a boat are, "That Ain't No F-ing Diesel..." Followed by "O-chit, It Is A Diesel" when you open the hatch.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]553894[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553896[/ATTACH]

Unlike old school oil burners, these common rail diesels only smoke if you want them too. They are so clean up high that most people can't get past it, even after they hear the turbo screaming by them. Reason is, they operate between 4k idle to 30k wide open psi of atomizing fuel pressure, firing multiple pulses per stroke. Which also makes them quiet. You will never get yelled at for loud exhaust, which I do kinda miss.

Everything depends on this grapefruit size 2 piston CP3 pump from our friends at Bosch. Good for 700 flywheel horses out of the box. A modified stoker versions will get ya closer to 800hp. EVERY modern light to medium duty diesel produced today uses that same style pump. It's just so dang good that no one can build something better. Not even Bosch it seems..

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553895[/ATTACH]

Leaving just one question, how many do you want?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553901[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553902[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553904[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553898[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553897[/ATTACH]

For one member here, that magic number looks to be 3..

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553903[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails
DIY - Duramax Marinisation-img_0509.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-duramaxcp3_cropped.1.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-dscn2091.jpg  

DIY - Duramax Marinisation-frontcover3_zps548f6e6c.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-frontcoverdyno_zps80ac636a.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-iphone-531.jpg  

DIY - Duramax Marinisation-engine_pulley.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-wagler.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-cp3-dual-fueler.jpg  


Last edited by kidturbo; 04-10-2016 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:42 PM
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I forgot to go over the oil pan options before getting into the fuel system. So taking a step back for a minute.

The factory pan is two piece setup with a built in windage tray design. Likely this will work fine in most situations. I've yet to hear any issues with these in a boat, no matter how much wave jumping you do. The medium duty oil pan has a bit larger volume. I couldn't find a pic of one right off. All the Duramax models have a low oil level sensor in them. After some testing, I have serious reservations if the ECM will even report a low oil level... But you could easily wire that sensor to a light or audiable alarm and be safe.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554119[/ATTACH]

Below is the stock light duty upper, and comparison of stock steel lower and the aftermarket aluminum "Banana Pan." No matter which one you chose, be sure to install a drain hose or tube so you can pump it out in the boat. I forgot to add one when I had the engine out first time, and it was a real pain to install in the boat. Pumping it out the dipstick is not an option either...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554111[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554114[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554117[/ATTACH]

For those looking to do some serious power and heavy offshore running, dry sump pans are available. Here is an example of a custom built unit, along with cast models. First cast model was by Curtis Halvorson from Extreme Engine Development. Last two pics are the PPE version release a couple years ago.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554112[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554113[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554115[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554116[/ATTACH]

Last is a pic I took of a HP4 filter head my friend was installing in a hot rod build this week. I liked the connection options and felt was worth posting here.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554120[/ATTACH]

Back to the fuel system now.
Attached Thumbnails
DIY - Duramax Marinisation-f143173801.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-imag0150.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-dry1.jpg  

DIY - Duramax Marinisation-dry2.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-duramaxdrysumppan_v13_web.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-duramaxdrysumppan_v8_web.jpg  

DIY - Duramax Marinisation-bananapan01c.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-bananapan15c.jpg   DIY - Duramax Marinisation-20160411_133444.jpg  

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Old 04-14-2016, 07:46 PM
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Awesome thread! Thanks for taking the time to post all of this information. Having a 2011 LML I can attest to how bulletproof they are in mild upgraded form. I have the Black Maxx programmer running on HOT setting (150HP) everything deleted and now have 170K on the clock almost always on that setting (just watch the egts)
I would love to put one (or two) in a boat someday and this thread has me thinking hard about it!!
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:08 PM
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CP3 is the bomb. I've spun a lot of them.
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:08 AM
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CP3 is the bomb. I've spun a lot of them.
Where the CP4.x could be A bomb... Believe they have it resolved after several revisions. My GM buddy would send me pics of early models he found grenaded. While others like CF above obviously had no problems with them even cranked up.

The good old CP3 is one well designed piece. Only mistake GM made was using a mechanical lift pump were everyone else use an in tank electric.
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Old 04-19-2016, 03:30 AM
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Where the CP4.x could be A bomb... Believe they have it resolved after several revisions. My GM buddy would send me pics of early models he found grenaded. While others like CF above obviously had no problems with them even cranked up.

The good old CP3 is one well designed piece. Only mistake GM made was using a mechanical lift pump were everyone else use an in tank electric.
Does the dodge with the CP3 use electric?
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Old 04-19-2016, 11:38 AM
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According to everything I've read Dodge uses both an in-tank and gearotor pump from the factory.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...mp-system.html
GEAROTOR PUMP

DESCRIPTION
The gearotor pump has two functions
- draws fuel from the fuel supply
- increases fuel pressure for regulation to housing pressure required for internal lubrication and supplying the high-pressure injection pump

OPERATION
This fuel system uses a gearotor supply-pump attached to the rear of the high-pressure pump. This medium-pressure fuel pump is driven by the end of the high-pressure pump shaft, and can generate 20" vacuum at the fuel inlet at high rpm.
The gearotor pump is supplied fuel from the lift pump in the fuel tank through the fuel manager\filter.

--

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554361[/ATTACH]

The mechanical lift or "gearotor" pump is the aluminum piece attached by 4 torques head bolts above.

Dodge uses basically the same CP3 pump as the GM model, however GM didn't include an electric pusher pump to feed the gearotor pump. In my experience that gearotor can't handle much above 500hp fueling by itself. Even at slightly over stock power demands the ECM will "limp mode" if the fuel filter has some miles on it. The gear pump is constantly sucking fuel through the filter on GM's, as where everyone else prefers to push the fuel to the pump.

My 3.2L Mercedes does not have that gear pump on the CP3. It is totally supplied by an in-tank pusher pump. Being a German car, and one of the first models equipped with a CP3 makes me wonder why the change for US trucks.

Ultimately a combination of electric and mechanical is what all the high performance setups run. I added a 190gph lift pump in my boat pushing at 10-15psi and all fuel starvation issues were solved. Especially when running B100 fuel.
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DIY - Duramax Marinisation-0cp31.jpg  

Last edited by kidturbo; 04-19-2016 at 11:55 AM.
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