dna

I got a used timing light - a equus pro 3114 - it has a advance timing adjustment dial on the back. I guess I don't need the whiteout and ruler then?

Yes, I got the silver graphite gaskets for the risers - I guess I can still reuse it although I did tighten it down once and then had to remove riser.

I'll check again today if I can use my original covers - the issue was more of a clearance thing (height) since I think these newer heads have the valves higher?



Thanks

dereknkathy

The valves are in the same place. The Rocker studs sticking up could be a clearance issue. How much was riser gasket? I would prefer you got a new one and kept the used-once one for an emergency spare. Timing marks. You need to mark TDC plus 10 degrees anyway. Might as well mark 32 degrees. Then check timing both ways. Set light to 34 deg and time at TDC mark. Then set timing to straight up and see what the balancer says. Initial timing. Matters very little. Anywhere from 6 to 14 degrees will make very little diff. Set timing to 34 deg at 3500. Don't hold it that high for long. Then se what it is at idle. The ignition control box bolted to the port riser. It sez V8 and then a number. Probly 22 which is hoe much advance that box adds. If everything is right, your base timing should show 10. Might be a little higher, cuz the timing at idle rpm might be advanced a bit from 0.

dna

OK, got the left side totally on including the original valve covers (they fit - just needed to loosen the exhaust manifold first cause it was getting caught on the edge). I started to try to get the engine to TBC so I could then put on the manifold and distributor. Below is a pic. I got the engine #1 cylinder intake valve to go down and then turned a little more to try to find the markers on the main pulley so I could get the zero align with the zero on the other marker.

First, the numbers are worn on the fixed marker - I think the big V (inside the V) is zero - is that right? Second, I have no tag or numbers on my main pulley - you will see I have 2 circles on the side - is one of the zero? Also you will see that someone painted the 10 mark on the fixed marker and then just above the 2 circles is another painted mark on the main pulley - what are these?



Thanks

dereknkathy

Ignore the two holes. They are drilled there for balance. The top dead center Mark will be like a line hacksaw across the face of the balancer on the outside of it. Might even be where that painted Mark is, in fact it probably is you'll see a Groove in the balancer that's the top dead center mark.

dna

Thanks - I'll check tomorrow - time to beer and wings now.

So as for my fixed marker, the numbers are worn out - is my zero the inside of the big V? I can see that someone painted a line on the fixed marker which I can see the numbers - they painted it at 10 - what does that mean - I assume this is optimal idle timing.

Thanks

dereknkathy

Okay, the point where the intake valve just starts to open the engine is at top dead center but one entire Revolution from where you need to be. When the intake valve just finished his closing, the Piston is now on its way back up and it's almost a half a turn from the top dead center Mark again. Yes. The 10 mark would be the idle timing point. The big V is the zero mark.

dna

Now I'm confused - the video you provided on how to install the distributor showed to get the intake valve to just close (on #1) and then turn a little more to align the pulley zero with the fixed marker zero. I did that - I turned the engine until the #1 intake valve 'just' closed and then turned a few inches more which is where the pic I provided was taken. The painted mark on the main pulley is likely the zero - so I think I just need to turn the engine a little more to align wit the big V - is this not correct? Cause you are suggesting I went too far - but I think I didn't go far enough?

Thanks

dereknkathy

I think that white-painted Marc is the top dead center mark. But you can't trust the white paint somebody else put their. Check and make sure that the groove that is machined in the outside diameter of the balancer is right where that white paint is. I just looked at one of my balancers, and the timing mark is right at one of those two big holes. So I guess they do drill those Balance holes right near the top dead center mark. The video is over simplifying a little bit when the valve just starts to open the Piston is all the way up then the Piston goes all the way down and the valve closes. Then the Piston has to go all the way up again to compress everything to top dead center which is when approximately the spark plug fires. But actually the valve is open for more than one half of a rotation of the engine it's probably a little bit closer to three quarters of one rotation of the engine.

dna

Thanks - so I'll check tomorrow and I suspect the painted mark on the pulley is my zero.

If so, I'm jumping ahead of how to optimize timing but I'll ask now anyway.

Being that my main pulley does not have timing tape/marks (other than the zero), I assume I need to use my fixed marker to set the timing. Problem is the fixed marker only goes to 16 max - thus I assume I can use this to set the idle timing. But how do I set the total timing to 32-34? Although I've never used a timing gun, I think I would set the gun to 32 and then just align the 2 zero marks togther - at 3500 rpm - is this right?

Thanks

dereknkathy

Yes. But you can make a 10 and 20 mark on the balancer. You got to set the top dead center Mark at the 10 point and paint a new mark at 0. Then do it again. Set mark at 10, paint new mark at 0 to get you 20 BTDC mark. Then you can time engine at idle with gun set to no advance. Rev engine and watch 2 new timing marks advance.