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Originally Posted by ACrooks69
(Post 4647705)
I just looked through the instructions and have a better idea on its capabilities. I don't like the 22 degree control limit, and see how that could be causing problems here. Is it 22 at max or can it be 22 plus the idle comp retard. I would think phasing the rotor correctly would reduce the chances of crossfire.
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22 is max but in most cases is more than enough. Stabilization is near to watch on a timing light. Timing jumps up and right back to base. Immediately. If 700 is your number then once rpm goes above 700 it drops right back to base. Below and it jumps up. |
Originally Posted by Crude Intentions
(Post 4647760)
22 is max but in most cases is more than enough. Stabilization is near to watch on a timing light. Timing jumps up and right back to base. Immediately. If 700 is your number then once rpm goes above 700 it drops right back to base. Below and it jumps up. |
I could tell ya that mine and icdedppls engines idle like they are stock 525s. 650-700rpm in gear all day. Just this past weekend we stayed in a marina that was a couple miles of no wake zone. Friday night i launched by myself. Idled a couple miles to the marina. Hung out for a bit, then idled over to a restaurant. Had dinner. Idled back to marina. Next morning, idled out to the lake. Engines prob had 5+miles of putting along at 700rpm.
these are 800 and 900hp blower engines. No fouled plugs, no black transom. Able to idle in gear at 13+afr, and immediately after cold starting, i can pop em in gear and not stall. if you ever see the datalogs from a modern efi car engine, youll see the timing is all over the place. Cold start, slight changes in throttle position/map equals big swings in timing |
That's what I'm talking about. Looking forward to trying my new lower initial with opened throttle blades.
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Originally Posted by ACrooks69
(Post 4647694)
So the CD-1 is not a timing control box or timing computer per se, but like the 6AL with a retard and starting retard module. I thought it could be programmed like the thunderbolt module with a timing map.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7gsoxqhb1r...Setup.exe?dl=0 |
i took the boat to the launch and backed it in about 3/4, enough to run it but keep it from going anywhere as put it in and out of gear. With 18 initial and 20* stabilization I was able to get in and out gear without killing but I couldn't get the rpm above ~575 rpm. My idle rpm was 1000. It was an improvement but there's still work to be done. When I got home I pulled the plugs and they came out black. At the moment I think I have 3 things working against me, an intake that;s not a full operating temp, fouled plugs and the boat locked down to the trailer. I put new plugs in and will go run the boat before I do anymore testing or adjusting. Perhaps I need a better set of operating conditions before I draw any more conclusions.
On another note. The reason I called it a day was one engine would intermittently start as if the timing was full advanced (no retard). Actually I'm going to buy a new starter tomorrow because this one now sounds like it's damaged internally. I double checked my file and everything is right but it sure seems like the retard isn't working... |
The trigger timing was set to 38* then? Did you double check with a timing light to make sure it was at 18* at idle?
if you want, you could download the data log and email it to me . |
I verified it on one engine and downloaded the same program in the other, but didn't verify that one (the one with the starter issue. Not familiar with data logging yet. I guess I need to read up on that.
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Download the cd log software. Then, you open the cd log program, and click the download tab, with the laptop hooked up just like you would to upload the map.
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