Winterizing
10-08-2018, 10:53 AM
#21
Banned
iTrader: (9)
can you guys give the tech benys and positives of frozen solid pink anti freeze for all internals of your engines and systems. It still freezes solid how does a block of ice provide positive results for all internal components. How does freezing solid a block of ice for the impeller - any seals and soft metals and the water circ pump beny from this ?
I know all are going to say corrosion protection and it does not expand - the raw water side is already corroded within 3 months being brand new from lake water and worst from ocean waters. This stuff does not reverse any corrosion period.
It freezes solid whether you think so or not. the 50 pink stuff. With that said list 3 positives it provides when frozen inside your engine ?? Its a block of ice that does not expand ? wonderful so a block of non expandable ice is good for the internal components of your engine months on end -- really since when ?? Watch the video. You guys are wasting your money and time with this cheap crap. I do not care it does not expand. Its still a block of ice from 7 degrees and below.
I know all are going to say corrosion protection and it does not expand - the raw water side is already corroded within 3 months being brand new from lake water and worst from ocean waters. This stuff does not reverse any corrosion period.
It freezes solid whether you think so or not. the 50 pink stuff. With that said list 3 positives it provides when frozen inside your engine ?? Its a block of ice that does not expand ? wonderful so a block of non expandable ice is good for the internal components of your engine months on end -- really since when ?? Watch the video. You guys are wasting your money and time with this cheap crap. I do not care it does not expand. Its still a block of ice from 7 degrees and below.
Last edited by BUP; 10-08-2018 at 10:56 AM.
10-08-2018, 11:48 AM
#22
Registered
I've tested the pink in a freezer which was at -1 degree. If there is no water added, it actually was not frozen solid. The best way to characterize it is the consistency of a snow cone. I could still manipulate the sides of the plastic cup it was in. With that said, as the video suggests, you better make sure there was no water diluting it. I have OBs now, so glad I don't have this issue anymore. But I too was one of those that always drained the engine, ran pink through it, then drained the pink back out. Never had an issue with that method over 30 years.
10-08-2018, 12:09 PM
#23
Registered
Same here.
I have head some in the garage over winter and seen it slush up over winter.
I was told that it just gets slushy, doesn't freeze solid and expand to do any damage.
I have to worry about an outboard and jet ski engines is all now.
Always used green auto AF since seeing pink stuff do that.
Realized cheap windshield washer fluid gets over rated too...
I have head some in the garage over winter and seen it slush up over winter.
I was told that it just gets slushy, doesn't freeze solid and expand to do any damage.
I have to worry about an outboard and jet ski engines is all now.
Always used green auto AF since seeing pink stuff do that.
Realized cheap windshield washer fluid gets over rated too...
10-08-2018, 06:24 PM
#24
Registered
Mercruiser has -100 non-tox Antifreeze for a couple bucks more /gallon. CHEAP insurance compared to time lost spent buying an Engine replacement and RE/RE. At worst, under most winters it gets syrupy (light oil) but never solid like in the video.
We drain cooling system completely and fill them with the -100 non-tox and forget about what winter is going to throw at us regardless if the boats in heated storage or not... cuts down on corrosion too over winter with the system filled.
In spring hook up batteries and fire!
We drain cooling system completely and fill them with the -100 non-tox and forget about what winter is going to throw at us regardless if the boats in heated storage or not... cuts down on corrosion too over winter with the system filled.
In spring hook up batteries and fire!
10-08-2018, 07:21 PM
#25
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Don’t rule out windshield washer fluid... Good to -20 and it’s a lot cheaper. I have a gravity fed bucket with water hooked to the outdrive and operate the motor to 160 degrees. With the motor still running, I turn off the water and start pouring in the windshield washer fluid until it comes out the exhaust. After motor cools, I drain the exhaust and block. If liquids are not in your block, you elimate the potential of any problems. I run the washer fluid through just in case there is water I can’t drain... I also drain the exhaust and seawater pump hoses. No problems so far. Antifreeze on an impeller for 6-7 months is hard on them.
10-08-2018, 09:46 PM
#26
Registered
Duplicate post
10-08-2018, 09:47 PM
#27
Registered
I agree air doesn’t freeze...however when you “drain” the water system. Do you honestly think you are getting all of the water out.
What is needed for corrosion? Water and air.
Like I said, I’ll take my chances with -100 antifreeze than leaving an engine empty all winter.
What is needed for corrosion? Water and air.
Like I said, I’ll take my chances with -100 antifreeze than leaving an engine empty all winter.
10-08-2018, 11:20 PM
#28
Registered
One last comment...I brought this up last year with no rational response.
If simply draining your water system without backfilling with antifreeze is acceptable, then why do you bother fogging cylinders and rings? If air and bare metal is ok, then your cylinders and rings should be ok too...shouldn’t need to fog it, right? This is rhetorical of course. Just trying to point out the flawed logic that one is acceptable and the other isn’t. Doesn’t make much sense to me.
If simply draining your water system without backfilling with antifreeze is acceptable, then why do you bother fogging cylinders and rings? If air and bare metal is ok, then your cylinders and rings should be ok too...shouldn’t need to fog it, right? This is rhetorical of course. Just trying to point out the flawed logic that one is acceptable and the other isn’t. Doesn’t make much sense to me.
10-09-2018, 07:34 AM
#29
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Sort of funny comments, but don't need to get 100% out, just enough so what ever is left can expand it large voids so no pressure is exerted with enough force to damage anything
As for bear metal, inside a block, head other water channels and comparing to combustion sealing surfaces. The water jacket areas have no surfaces which are used by other moving metal parts for contact sealing surfaces.
As for bear metal, inside a block, head other water channels and comparing to combustion sealing surfaces. The water jacket areas have no surfaces which are used by other moving metal parts for contact sealing surfaces.
10-09-2018, 08:29 AM
#30
Registered
If I was to leave antifreeze in my raw water side all winter I would definitely step up to the -100 good stuff. I use the cheap pink crap to make sure after purging all the water out that I remove any little bit of water that remained in the system. I then drain the pink out. Never an issue.
