Holley/ Starting issue
05-22-2019, 08:01 PM
#51
What I did was align the marks at 50*
Then after the engine is running you set the EFI for constant timing and then just adjust the dizzy till you have the same timing on the marks that the Computer shows you are supposed to have;
IF the engine was running with a carb and timed for a carb you are way off for EFI. Try advancing the dizzy about 40* and see if it fires
Remember EFI CAN'T advance timing - IT can ONLY retard it. SO you have to run total possible advance initially and the EFI retards it back to normal timing..
Then after the engine is running you set the EFI for constant timing and then just adjust the dizzy till you have the same timing on the marks that the Computer shows you are supposed to have;
IF the engine was running with a carb and timed for a carb you are way off for EFI. Try advancing the dizzy about 40* and see if it fires
Remember EFI CAN'T advance timing - IT can ONLY retard it. SO you have to run total possible advance initially and the EFI retards it back to normal timing..
Last edited by Tinkerer; 05-22-2019 at 08:38 PM.
05-22-2019, 08:40 PM
#54
Registered
iTrader: (1)
The purple wire to the
EFI doesn't power it. It just turns it on.
the 50* timing setting is the mechanical timing you have to physically set the distributor to it is not the timing you set on the computer.
You can't advance timing you can only delay it. SO you set the distributor at 50* timing and then the EFI delays the timing to what ever it wants.
So if you don't have the initial 50* timing set properly than your EFI computer set timing will not be correct.
EFI doesn't power it. It just turns it on.
the 50* timing setting is the mechanical timing you have to physically set the distributor to it is not the timing you set on the computer.
You can't advance timing you can only delay it. SO you set the distributor at 50* timing and then the EFI delays the timing to what ever it wants.
So if you don't have the initial 50* timing set properly than your EFI computer set timing will not be correct.
05-22-2019, 08:47 PM
#55
Registered
iTrader: (1)
same as Daytona Ignition or any other for that matter that foes not have mechanical advance.
Simple really. Brain just has to accept it. Advancing electronically is actually retarding less.
Remember, you can't send a spark before the trigger.
But you can electronically delay the spark after the trigger.
Simple really. Brain just has to accept it. Advancing electronically is actually retarding less.
Remember, you can't send a spark before the trigger.
But you can electronically delay the spark after the trigger.
Last edited by SB; 05-22-2019 at 08:54 PM.
05-23-2019, 09:26 AM
#56
Registered
Thread Starter
ok so, just so Im following. i disable to computer control, set the distributor +/- 50* BTDC well cranking .
i don't have much experience at all with distributors, everything is now coil on plug and so much easier
i don't have much experience at all with distributors, everything is now coil on plug and so much easier
Last edited by LTZCrew; 05-23-2019 at 09:44 AM.
05-23-2019, 10:56 AM
#57
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iTrader: (1)
Okay, think this thread is getting ahead of the issue and you have mentioned a few times nothing bolted to the engine has changed from the dyno session, therefore the distributor will still be phased correctly.
You mentioned the power wiring and fuel pump wiring has changed obviously for the dyno session....so in there should be your issue. Batt + power / ign+ power/ grounds/ relays ? voltmeter/test light/good eye is your friend.
You mentioned the power wiring and fuel pump wiring has changed obviously for the dyno session....so in there should be your issue. Batt + power / ign+ power/ grounds/ relays ? voltmeter/test light/good eye is your friend.
05-23-2019, 11:02 AM
#58
Registered
Thread Starter
probably true haha
i will load a wiring diagram with my voltage readings tonight, the reason i find it hard to believe it is a power issue is because. i have over 10v at the motor well cranking - and cranking for a LONG time, makes no difference on trying to start if im running on A/B or both batteries, two brand new battery's made no difference in any way, moved the ECM power supply to a remote new battery so its not seeing any starter current drop and zilch
im making the mistake of assuming relays are good due to injectors are firing and dumping fuel and i have spark at all 8 plugs
i will load a wiring diagram with my voltage readings tonight, the reason i find it hard to believe it is a power issue is because. i have over 10v at the motor well cranking - and cranking for a LONG time, makes no difference on trying to start if im running on A/B or both batteries, two brand new battery's made no difference in any way, moved the ECM power supply to a remote new battery so its not seeing any starter current drop and zilch
im making the mistake of assuming relays are good due to injectors are firing and dumping fuel and i have spark at all 8 plugs
