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Originally Posted by hogie roll
(Post 4814917)
Ive done this about a half a dozen times now. It doesn’t work on speedy lowers with front pick ups, unless you engineer something.
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Originally Posted by hogie roll
(Post 4814919)
The -77 antifreeze is only $1-2 more per gallon. A no brainer imo. Boat is at LOTO FYI. Which doesn’t get extremely cold.
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Originally Posted by hogie roll
(Post 4814921)
Id guesstimate my 5 gallon bucket is being pulled through in 30 seconds to a minute. At idle.
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I've had a winterizing kit that I've used since 1999 or 2000. I always warmed the motor. Then drained all the water out. Then put antifreeze through it. Years ago, I put a motorcycle shraeder valve stem on the jug, so I could pressurize the jug slightly which jambs antifreeze right into the SWP; no suction required to prime/flow. |
I’d agree on the minute at idle pending on the shape of impeller. Also years ago I just tee’d off on each side of the block drain with some 6an hose and joined with a coupler up by the t-stat housing. Made it so simple to drain the block in less than a minute. Yes then pulled the plugs on the coolers and exhaust. Just need to make sure none of the drains are blocked. This also is a good way to flush your blocks a few times during the summer especially if your in shallow water much. Cost about 30.00 an engine for a few fittings and hose.
I got nailed once on a couple of 330’s and ever since this method was just to simple for such a dumb costly mistake. Procrastination is more like it. I did the antifreeze deal after good warm up for years with no issues whatsoever. Worked great also. |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4814938)
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Winteri...34996878&psc=1
I've had a winterizing kit that I've used since 1999 or 2000. I always warmed the motor. Then drained all the water out. Then put antifreeze through it. Years ago, I put a motorcycle shraeder valve stem on the jug, so I could pressurize the jug slightly which jambs antifreeze right into the SWP; no suction required to prime/flow. |
Originally Posted by getrdunn
(Post 4814952)
Also years ago I just tee’d off on each side of the block drain with some 6an hose and joined with a coupler up by the t-stat housing. Made it so simple to drain the block in less than a minute. Yes then pulled the plugs on the coolers and exhaust. Just need to make sure none of the drains are blocked.
I did the antifreeze deal after good warm up for years with no issues whatsoever. Worked great also. If I had the boat any further north (than the Gulf cost of west Florida) I'd probably have to refine/upgrade my technique. |
I have one of those kits that holds 6 gallons of antifreeze and has the Y connection to run the engine on the hose and get it up to temp, then you switch it over and let it snarf out of the 6 gallon container. Takes less than a minute to drain it. Then I drain some of the water via the block petcocks, enough to fill it up with two gallons of Prestone pure antifreeze. I mainly run the antifreeze solution (2 gallons of Prestone to 4 gallons of West Marine -60 engine-rated (not water supply rated) to make sure the CoolFuel system is protected.
But yeah, those impellers move some water, even at idle. |
Another trick is to force feed it, but the thermostat needs to be open to hit everything. I have a bucket with a sump pump that forces antifreeze through everything. I’m closed cooled so I’m only worried about coolers. I drain my headers after they cool to protect the engines from leaks.
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Never understood why people don’t use our setup. So easy.
rubbermaid container hose sub pump can run antifreeze on a loop until winterized https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b79fa7252d.png |
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