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454 initial timing questons

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Old 06-09-2022, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
Calm down buddy..........lol
i’m good. Nothing compared to my daily stuff.
Funny while waiting:
Ihad a caravan that came in yrs ago, just like that module. When i asked the flat bed driver he said it was dusted by the fbi…was part of a bank robbery. True story…Lololol
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Old 06-09-2022, 02:06 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by GLENAMY 242SS
A really stretched timing chain or bad timing light.
Motor was just rebuilt brand new timing chain. Brand new timing light as well though granted I did buy it from harbor freight which many people would poo poo I have had good luck with all of their products. In hindsight I recall the mechanic saying something about seeing the timing jumping all over the place at idle and that was what made him think he had to put it into base timing mode. This is supposedly a new thunderbolt module that he replaced of course this is all making me have doubts about everything they have done. I know there are sensors inside of the distributor as well could that be the issue?
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Old 06-09-2022, 02:41 PM
  #143  
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does the module have a good reference to ground, is it bolted to a bracket on the block / head
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Old 06-09-2022, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
does the module have a good reference to ground, is it bolted to a bracket on the block / head
This module attaches to the distributor. I'm not familiar with what wiring/connections there are.
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Old 06-11-2022, 09:32 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by SB
No. They don’t work the same. Nothing to ground out. Just set your advance gun to 0 and aim at the timing tab and dampener with engine running. That module typically means you set base timing to 8*.

You absolutely pos you have a 5 ?
I want the record to show that you were 100% right on how the tbiv works vs tbv. Thank you yesterday I began the process of swapping out the distributor and thunderbolt system for a marine HEI unit. Of course being my first time ever doing this I managed to get it 180 out and it wouldn't start and then it started raining. Came back this morning used my compression tester to find TDC on #1 and reinstalled the distributor and VROOM VROOM. Fired right up and the timing marks stayed steady as I moved and shifted her around. This unit supposedly has a 20° advance curve, i set the base at 12 instead of 8. Have a party to go to and more spotty weather on the horizon today but hoping to water test her again by no later than Monday. If she still doesn't go above 3500 rpm then, I will truly be at a loss.




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Old 06-21-2022, 06:01 AM
  #146  
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Carb has been rejetted to definitely be rich, new timing light bought to double check things and readjust timing. Set base timing to 15 and checked it at 3000 rpm with the new digital advance timing light and it was spot on at 35 degrees advance. Boat still does same thing, runs decent up to 3200 then makes more noise but no more power and only goes to 3800. Looking like she's gonna have to be pulled out again. It's as if entire can shaft has rounded off equally and just won't let it go above 3800
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Old 12-03-2022, 09:22 AM
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Inknow everyone hates it when threads end with no resolution so here's an update!

We got her pulled back out of the boat. Mechanic has since moved his shop within the same industrial plaza and is directly across from the engine rebuilder. It was as simple as a wave and I had the builder over with my mechanic and we all checked compression and did leak down together. Everyone is befuddled. At first thought maybe a head gasket had gone between cylinders when it seemed some air was leaking from #1 to #3 but then. Nothing l asked back the other direction from 3 to 1. All we know is we absolutely have low compression on #1 cylinder though it's not seemingly so bad to make sense as to why the boat won't go over 3000 rpm with any power. Motor is undressed and it will be brought across to the rebuilder on Monday and the head will be pulled and we can really see what we got going on. I. The meantime I have sourced a set of 088 heads that we're takeoffs from a crate motor. I can get the pair for $750. I still believe in the peanut port build but. Ow that it's out and we gotta do it again I'm thinking the 088s just might be the better match for the 18cc dome pistons we have in there. Hoping that we discover some sort of valve/head issue and all we need to do is a head swap or something and put it back in.

So what say you the experts about the 088 heads? Good match with the 18cc dome pistons to get the compression back down in a friendlier place for iron heads?



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Old 12-03-2022, 09:39 PM
  #148  
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Rebuilt when?????? What's with all the rust and corrosion on the heads to intake mating surface and the rust inside several of the head intake runners???
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Old 12-03-2022, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Griff
Rebuilt when?????? What's with all the rust and corrosion on the heads to intake mating surface and the rust inside several of the head intake runners???
Rebuilt and put back in the boat less than a year ago. I know cast iron can show rust very quickly, but this pic was taken immediatly after we took the intake manifold off yesterday so it's not like it was exposed to moist air and got some surface rust real quickly
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Old 12-04-2022, 06:41 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by Griff
Rebuilt when?????? What's with all the rust and corrosion on the heads to intake mating surface and the rust inside several of the head intake runners???
yeh, look at #8 ! Yuk. #2 and others bad too but #8, yikes. Looks like it was drinking salt water.
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