I would go with the Konrad speedmaster version. It would handle the h.p. without any problem and much less weight than a six. Your boat would run much faster. And take less h.p. away from the engine.

Are you running the trans in a Stellings Box? What trans are you running and were there many modifications to the box to do this? How is the rooster tail coming out of a single 6?
-Tom

Check300 is running a Stelling Extension Box.
I believe he is running a Bam Transmission.
Can't remeber on the mod's the flange may be trimmed a bit
for the tranny clearance, nothing a good sawzaw can't handle.

They also cut the bottom out and then just mad a cover that bolts on for access. All really elementary changes that can be easily made.

Jon

For sure.. NO SPACE here.

That's why I run my boat like grandma drives her car....

BTW: Really like your Activator, looks awesome!!

Mange

Check300 eliminated your problem by using a Stellings Extension box and having the tranny inside it.


Jon

Any update to this thread?

What is the standard drive shaft to prop shaft centerline distance (height) on a #6 drive?

I believe 24"

Trying to fins some old prints, I may be wrong but 24" sounds way to deep.

seem's like it's on the high side of 16" but I don't dare say with out finding those prints

I would not weld a skeg on any drive like that. On a single it is critical to have a good skeg to steer. Herring's that are welded on are done to the back of the skeg not the whole skeg. Single outboard go fast boats will break a skeg off at times from the torque steer of the one prop trying to twist the drive. Those O/B lower units are junked without the skeg with no exceptions. Welding it only fatigues the metal in another area and it will break off again and then the outboard boat may crash