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800-900 hp for bravo xr's

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Old 02-28-2008 | 05:42 PM
  #41  
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Also drive ratio 1.50:1 is easier on the drive then 1.35:1.
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Old 02-28-2008 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Canada Jeff
What? Are you saying the more RPMs the better the drive last????? confused here.
Yes, If you have someone build a big engine for a bravo it's better to rev it a little bit and pitch for max rpms as far away from your peak torque as possible. If the engine is big cubes and/or blown and it's cammed so that it makes peak power at 5-5500 and peak torque in the upper 4's, I bet you'll blow drives... Just my opinion...gathered from blowin chit up with Bravos...

I clicked off 130hr on my BMaxes though!
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Old 02-28-2008 | 07:21 PM
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NautiByNature,
I too have a 38 Fever with twin 850's and Bravo XZ Drives, billet top caps, bearing and shim upgrades...so far they're holding up well. My boat is a 1998 twin step and if I remember correctly your boat is a 1989 which makes it heavier. I also agree it's better to turn less prop and turn the motors up.
Good Luck with your repower.
Gary
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Old 03-02-2008 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by racinfever
NautiByNature,
I too have a 38 Fever with twin 850's and Bravo XZ Drives, billet top caps, bearing and shim upgrades...so far they're holding up well. My boat is a 1998 twin step and if I remember correctly your boat is a 1989 which makes it heavier. I also agree it's better to turn less prop and turn the motors up.
Good Luck with your repower.
Gary
Thanks for those good words Gary . even with smillar boats
and power combinations the main difference could still be drivers from one boat to the next .

Howard
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Old 03-02-2008 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by NJSONIC
Our boat had Max Machine Worx Bravo's They (Max Machine) said the drives will hold up to the hp and the weight of the boat.I spoke to them while the boat was being built. I had my first failure at about 18 hours (stripped splines on the clutch shaft)and the second failure(upper gear set,u joint,input shaft(snapped in the coupling),tore the lock nut that sets pinion shaft depth and preload out of the case,tore up the upper case....) was three hours later on the same drive that Max machine repaired. Since Doller Offshore rerigged for me with the Konrads I have had ZERO problems with the drives!! Both Bravo failures happened at 3000 rpm and while running in a 1 foot chop (Barnaget Bay for a sunset cruise).
NJ,

Sounds like that condition makes the least amount of slip
with the wrong amount of torque at the props to cause breakage . what size props were you using? Do you know the % of slip you were running on them?


thanks

Howard
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Old 03-02-2008 | 04:07 PM
  #46  
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We were using Hydromotive P5X's 30 pitch. We were still at 18% slip with 1.35:1 ratio. Sonic have a high slip percentage but I'll give up some speed to have a great ride in the rough stuff. We are getting new props this season with out fail so I finally will be able to report on a new correct top speed with the Konrad Aces.
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Old 03-03-2008 | 06:51 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by NJSONIC
We were using Hydromotive P5X's 30 pitch. We were still at 18% slip with 1.35:1 ratio. Sonic have a high slip percentage but I'll give up some speed to have a great ride in the rough stuff. We are getting new props this season with out fail so I finally will be able to report on a new correct top speed with the Konrad Aces.
Is that the props you ran with the bravo's , I was running p5x 27's a lot of mid range in them I think . I will need to baby them going on plane and get past 3500 rpm .
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Old 03-03-2008 | 07:55 PM
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Yes. I'm going to most likely run 32 pitch Maximus's. I had a pair that I tried and they worked the best.
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Old 03-12-2008 | 04:42 PM
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How much work is involved in switching over from an XR to say a bmax or konrad....I guess the whole gimble assembly have to be replaced with that of a b max or konrad...can it (or will it) create any issues with the placement of the hydraulic steering....just curious how much work it is to move from an XR to something a little bigger. Is it something the pro's can do in a day?

Last edited by Big Time; 03-12-2008 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 03-12-2008 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Time
How much work is involved in switching over from an XR to say a bmax or konrad....I guess the whole gimble assembly have to be replaced with that of a b max or konrad...can it (or will it) create any issues with the placement of the hydraulic steering....just curious how much work it is to move from an XR to something a little bigger. Is it something the pro's can do in a day?
BMax is as close as you can get to a direct replacement. My steering stayed the same and only required drilling two holes in the wing plate to accomodate my trim rams.

Not sure about Konrad since it involves removing the engine(s) and installilng the extension box or if not using the extension you have to move the engine forward to make room for the trans.
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