Bravo 1 Drive Upper Question
11-03-2008 | 07:50 PM
#11
Gold Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 441
Likes: 1
From: Canton,Michigan
Hey Dick,
I have Bravo 1 XR's running Merc 600's. My mechanic says to disassemble and preload bearings after every season. How difficult us this to do for the mechanically inclined. What can I read to learn how to do it.
Thanks, Mark
I have Bravo 1 XR's running Merc 600's. My mechanic says to disassemble and preload bearings after every season. How difficult us this to do for the mechanically inclined. What can I read to learn how to do it.
Thanks, Mark
11-04-2008 | 02:17 AM
#13
Charter Member # 55
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 20,284
Likes: 2,524
From: Omaha/LOTO
The deal is if you wait til it pops chances are you'll be replacing the whole upper .....and even though the lower has been done if the upper blows you'll be wise to go thru the lower again ......Pay now ...or pay later ... "Mr Gadgets" knows his stuff ....pay attention ........m
11-05-2008 | 08:12 PM
#14
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 755
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From: Corona, CA
James,
For peace of mind, you should have it looked at. If the guy didnt take care of anything, the upper would be included. If the preload in the upper is loose, the case is wearing and will get to a point that it isnt a good canidate for re-use or upgrades.
How much power are you running? And what is your boat weight? What prop, etc.
It is my opinion, that if you dont have enought power to knock the teeth off the X gears you are better off with them. The XR upper gears wear out and have been failing like candy lately. I like to recommend for a B1, the new X gears with a steel tower installed in the upper case and the Merc XR top cap (ribbed). It has a steel tower in it also. The tower I install, goes 2" into the case and it makes for a stable enviorment for the gear stack. I have done many of these upgrades with very good results.
Driven with respect, it makes a very reliable drive.
If you are seeing pencil lead on the magnet in the upper, it is an indication of the preload going away on the pinion bearings, also the input shaft will be very easy to turn, it should have a slight drag on it..
If you have any other questions, fire away..
Hope this helps!
Dick
For peace of mind, you should have it looked at. If the guy didnt take care of anything, the upper would be included. If the preload in the upper is loose, the case is wearing and will get to a point that it isnt a good canidate for re-use or upgrades.
How much power are you running? And what is your boat weight? What prop, etc.
It is my opinion, that if you dont have enought power to knock the teeth off the X gears you are better off with them. The XR upper gears wear out and have been failing like candy lately. I like to recommend for a B1, the new X gears with a steel tower installed in the upper case and the Merc XR top cap (ribbed). It has a steel tower in it also. The tower I install, goes 2" into the case and it makes for a stable enviorment for the gear stack. I have done many of these upgrades with very good results.
Driven with respect, it makes a very reliable drive.
If you are seeing pencil lead on the magnet in the upper, it is an indication of the preload going away on the pinion bearings, also the input shaft will be very easy to turn, it should have a slight drag on it..
If you have any other questions, fire away..
Hope this helps!
Dick
Thanks for all of the advise, I do appreciate it. My boat is a 29 Fountain with a single 500EFI and the OL part number on the drive. I run a 24" Hydromotive 4 blade that has been de-tuned to a 23 or so.
11-06-2008 | 10:51 AM
#15
Charter Member #601
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 5
From: Holland, Mi USA.
With that power level and boat, you are better off with the X gear upgrade and some other additions to the upper housing. (I build an upper from your case ( if it is in good condition) with a steel tower, good top cap, X gears, etc that works very well.)
That is if it is driven with respect. No hole shots! Easy acceleration till the hull starts to free up, only WOT after say 3500-4000rpm. Then good on the sticks if you fly the boat at all. I have friends with heavier boats, more power, with your style of OL drive that have lived successfully, so it can be done.
Hope that helps.
That is if it is driven with respect. No hole shots! Easy acceleration till the hull starts to free up, only WOT after say 3500-4000rpm. Then good on the sticks if you fly the boat at all. I have friends with heavier boats, more power, with your style of OL drive that have lived successfully, so it can be done.
Hope that helps.
11-07-2008 | 07:06 AM
#16
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,335
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From: Riverview, Michigan
Mr. Gadgets, Your excellent work preceeds you. Question: I have a billet top cap for the B1 (see pic). Is this part as good as the top cap that you recommend? What gearcase lube do you prefer to use? Mine currently have the Merc lube, but I really like the Amsoil line of products. FYI: My drives are the 1998 vintage.
11-07-2008 | 12:28 PM
#17
Charter Member #601
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 5
From: Holland, Mi USA.
Any top cap needs to be measured to see if the race seat is flat and parallel to the cap and the proper distance from the mounting surface. Swapping top caps, the depth of the race needs to be compared to the old cap so the shims can be adjusted so the gear ends up in the proper position. I have seen them all over the place. But reputable cap builders, usually do a good job when building them. The cap you have is thick, that is the first item of concern. The old style caps are thin! It looks to be a quality cap, but hard to tell from pics. The reason I like the XR ribbed top cap is that it is relatively inexpensive and it has a steel tower in it. But a good billet top cap is much better than the stock, old style cap..
Hope this helps.
Dick
Hope this helps.
Dick
11-07-2008 | 09:58 PM
#18
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,335
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From: Riverview, Michigan
Dick, Thank you for the top cap info. I believe that the billet aluminum top cap was produced by a company called Billet Marine. It has a built-in ports for water circulation. I do remember that my Merc marine mechanic had requested the caps must be delivered with the outdrives for rebuilding. Yes, shimming was the reason.
You didn't answer my question regarding the lubricant. Please?
You didn't answer my question regarding the lubricant. Please?
11-09-2008 | 09:45 AM
#20
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 1
From: Riverview, Michigan
Thanks Dick, I will take your advice and change the lube out before spring arrives. Don't know if I have the two piece welded prop shafts (originals), but my mechanic had recommended (which I approved) changing out both (one had a slight twist) prop shafts for IMCO replacements. Next rebuild time for the outdrives, I am making the drive west to your place. You come highly recommended for your outdrive expertise.
