Bravo XR and prop selection
#1
HI Guys,
A lot of the threads about survival of the XR's are saying they depend on the driver. I would like some advice.
I have a 38ZR Donzi, 600SCI, extension boxes and XR Drives. 2 sets of props, Hering 5 blade 32 pitch and Maximus 5 blade 32 pitch.
The Herings are great once you get the boat on plane, they blow out very easy and spin really fast if you are not watching very closely. The Maximus gets on plane better but loses top end 3-4 mph.
My question is which prop is harder on the drives and also ay other tips to make the XRs live longer would be greatly appreciated.
Mark
A lot of the threads about survival of the XR's are saying they depend on the driver. I would like some advice.
I have a 38ZR Donzi, 600SCI, extension boxes and XR Drives. 2 sets of props, Hering 5 blade 32 pitch and Maximus 5 blade 32 pitch.
The Herings are great once you get the boat on plane, they blow out very easy and spin really fast if you are not watching very closely. The Maximus gets on plane better but loses top end 3-4 mph.
My question is which prop is harder on the drives and also ay other tips to make the XRs live longer would be greatly appreciated.
Mark
#2
The Maximus is going to be harder on the drive as they bite better, typically run a decreased slip #, and effectively place more stress on the upper and lower gear sets of the drive. The Herring is going to slip more out of the hole, as you have experienced. Blowing out is not that big of a deal on the drive, as long as you don't let it bite suddenly. The easier you come up on plane/apply the HP, the better on the drive.
Shifting firmly is always important. "Shift it like a man" is what I'll suggest when someone is *****footing the sticks. Many folks are guilty of shifting immediately from FWD to REV and v/v when docking, and often its a necessity. However, if you can "rest" in neutral for a second, and let the prop come to a stop before hitting the next position, this is MUCH better on the shifting mechanism and clutches.
Last thing I can suggest is learning from a master on how to throttle in rough water. You want to power through a wave, and you only need to pull the sticks back to 1/2 your original throttle position, just enough that the props are going ever so slightly slower than the boat when you re-enter (concurrently keeping you from over-revving the engines). Get on the power the instant the props have re-entered the water so as not to lose momentum, create drag, and induce a stuff. You can't try to make up speed in the air; as you are slowing in the air. Too many folks try to take the throttles back to right where they were before launch (or beyond), and the boat has more than likely slowed a small to noticeable amount by the time your props bite the water again. This takes time to get right; to know where to set the throttle again as you set the props back in the water--so as not to create drag, but also to not have them spinning to fast to where they bite hard into the water and create stress on the gear sets.
Shifting firmly is always important. "Shift it like a man" is what I'll suggest when someone is *****footing the sticks. Many folks are guilty of shifting immediately from FWD to REV and v/v when docking, and often its a necessity. However, if you can "rest" in neutral for a second, and let the prop come to a stop before hitting the next position, this is MUCH better on the shifting mechanism and clutches.
Last thing I can suggest is learning from a master on how to throttle in rough water. You want to power through a wave, and you only need to pull the sticks back to 1/2 your original throttle position, just enough that the props are going ever so slightly slower than the boat when you re-enter (concurrently keeping you from over-revving the engines). Get on the power the instant the props have re-entered the water so as not to lose momentum, create drag, and induce a stuff. You can't try to make up speed in the air; as you are slowing in the air. Too many folks try to take the throttles back to right where they were before launch (or beyond), and the boat has more than likely slowed a small to noticeable amount by the time your props bite the water again. This takes time to get right; to know where to set the throttle again as you set the props back in the water--so as not to create drag, but also to not have them spinning to fast to where they bite hard into the water and create stress on the gear sets.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 02-04-2009 at 07:39 AM.





