SC lower.
Same ratios.
Same height -0

Reply:

I agree that is why I think it is Theory #1 but hey it might be a combination of the two.

Furthermore, if Dave at IMCO says it might take 25 hours to break it in---the first theory would gain credibility because the drive is too tight to begin with and when you throw the HP/Torque at it---the situation becomes worse.

KAP

P.S. So far a lot of theory and no answers. I have my fingers crossed it's gotta be the drive is too tight and when we shim it out and it solves the problem I will be very happy.

P.P.S. You see they want the gears mated close because more surface area means stronger drive i.e...your not gonna shear off a gear tooth. However, when you factor the pinion movement it changes from tight tolerances to obstructing top end speed ie... scrubbs speed. It doesn't do it down low the drive runs the same speed at certain RPM.

Now I'm a little confused by that statementy Kap.
Are you saying it runs the same speed per rpm at cruising speed but won't pull the same W.O.T. RPM as the SC and thusly the loss of top speed or are you running the same W.O.T. RPM but still loosing top speed compared to the SC ?

Stay Tuned I should have some answers in about a week or two. I really want to go boating in comfort and piece of mind.

KAP

Kap,


To bad you had to crap can the x-drive. I am sure that was not easy,(both mentally or money wise). Hope you get the scx dialed in. I boat ALOT in Havasu, hope to see you there! On another note I run a heavy deep vee 28' with about 800 HP. New, (30 hours) Teague XR with all the good stuff,(Mario Latkas drive guy built it). I have changed the Amsoil twice and both times oil was beautiful. I am easy on the thottle , but will that drive just brake or will it give warning signs, like metal in oil??



Thanks, dave

I can say from firsthand experience it can go either way.

I lost a tooth at 8 hours I was cruising through fog on a perfectly calm (lake like) Ocean at 25-30 MPH Around 3K.

Replaced upper and cleaned up the lower.

Oil at 18 hours- looked great.

Oil at 43 looked really good I saw very tiny pieces of clutch but the magnets were clean.

Oil at 62 hours the magnets filled with shavings- a tear down showed they were starting to pit and I had a galled shaft.

This was a REALLY Easy 54 hours on the rebuild Not once did I wing it and land, and 20 of the 52 were on 2 trips from Marina Del Rey to San Diego Long easy cruises....

Uncle Dave

Reply:

Your right it was not easy but I am completely satisfied in our parting of ways. The SCX will be figured out--- I must be cursed everytime I try and get away from the SC/Max Machine Worx Drive I end up right back to that trusty drive.

Honestly, I can break any built Bravo style drive on command. I laugh at all the people that say Yeah bro I run 900+HP through a stock XR and it has 180Hrs on it! Oh and yeah I beat on it all the time---- gimme a break---if thats the case go play the lotto or powerball call me when you win.

As for whether your drive lives or not I do not have a crystal ball but if I were gonna handicap you I would say right at about 80 hours your gonna get a sound you will not like. That also depends on how much you drive at your peak HP/Torque. If your driving the boat like Miss. Daisy it will live longer if you drive it like you stole it then the life span will be much shorter. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise it is not the HP that will kill it---it is the driver, torque and a combination of both that makes you bust out your checkbook.

Lower units grenade when you do jack rabbit starts and hard out of the hole or fly the boat. Uppers break when you put the torque to them real fast in roll on type conditions shear a tooth or break it free from the spun welded base. NOTE: This is my experience and is not intended to reflect anyone else's war story just a general statement.

I hope to see you at Havasu we will be attending the Absolute Speed and Marine Poker Run. FYI---it is a great poker run you should come out---real cool bunch of performance boaters with down to earth demeanors.

KAP

P.S. Uncle Dave you better be make it to this Poker Run no excuses you will love the group and it will be a fun time I will do the intro's for you. There might even be a Lavey contingency this year again.

Kap,


Thanks for the reply!. I have already gone though 2 xr's so i know the drill. I have a spare drive so I might just change it out at 60 70 hours. We will be at Absolute, we are there every year. See you on the water.


thanks, Dave

I got 75 trouble free hours out of my untouched and original Teague Platnium drive. Then I had it torn down. Forward/reverse pinion gear had pitting, so replaced that and did some beefing up. It then went 50hrs and BNAG. Changed the oil every 20hrs or so. Pretty gentle out of the hole, but I run my boat, and on occasion I come out of the water. Hard not to in Parker.

Needed a new upper and engine coupler. Ouch.

So I'm going to do the 2 drive, 30hr swap program. Hopefully this will catch small problems before they become a big problem.

I'll know by October.

This thread is getting me worried. This winter I upgraded to an SCX upper, kept my SC lower. I havent run it yet. Plan to, this weekend. I cant lean into it for a while. I have a fresh engine as well as the new SCX. If I see a speed loss, I may just tie an anchor around my neck and jump in the ocean!! The worse part is that I sold my SC upper and Imco helmet for the SC. Now I have nothing to compare to, if there is a speed loss.
BTW.. You guys swapping from an SC to an SCX in the same day are handling alot of work. Considering you have to swap the helmet , as well as swapping uppers.
I am not running big power, only about 750 or so. Maybe as KAP is thinking, I am not to the point where I am pushing the drive enough to show a speed loss? Time will tell..