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Originally Posted by waconda
(Post 3399020)
Yes it does mix with water and for the life of me I don't know why that is on the top of your list. If your drive is taking on water you should fix it not keep changing oil. The Bravo Shop oil will last up to a 100 hrs so no need to spend $ 50-60 a gallon on amsoil + the Lucas additive x 3 changes= 75-80 dollars a service for a Bmax, now x that by 3 = $225-240 a year or $92.00 a year for The Bravo Shop oil.
I will post pic's on The Bravo Shop FB Page of what happens when you mix water with Merc oil and you maybe surprised. |
Originally Posted by waconda
(Post 3399020)
Yes it does mix with water and for the life of me I don't know why that is on the top of your list. If your drive is taking on water you should fix it not keep changing oil. The Bravo Shop oil will last up to a 100 hrs so no need to spend $ 50-60 a gallon on amsoil + the Lucas additive x 3 changes= 75-80 dollars a service for a Bmax, now x that by 3 = $225-240 a year or $92.00 a year for The Bravo Shop oil.
I will post pic's on The Bravo Shop FB Page of what happens when you mix water with Merc oil and you maybe surprised. Any drive that's immersed in water should have an oil that allows it to mix with water IMHO. If you pick up something like a fishing line and tear a prop seal you may not know it until it's too late. PS, my "BMAX" drives do not have water issues and I've supported your product many years now. Any questions feel free to contact me. |
Originally Posted by waconda
(Post 3399020)
The Bravo Shop oil will last up to a 100 hrs so no need to spend $ 50-60 a gallon on amsoil + the Lucas additive x 3 changes= 75-80 dollars a service for a Bmax, now x that by 3 = $225-240 a year or $92.00 a year for The Bravo Shop oil.
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Originally Posted by SS930
(Post 3400185)
Wow, that's some fuzzy math, ever consider politics? :D
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From their website:
"We purchased the Bravo Shop in May, 2010. We currently own and operate Waconda Welding, Inc. in Union, NE which we opened in May 2002. At Waconda Welding we do welding fabrication and auto repair. Since we are close to two small lakes and own our own boat, we got into the marine repair service also. We are also an authorized Mercury parts dealer with a full line of Mercruiser Stern Drive parts. When we purchased our BlackThunder, it had the BMax drives on it. We thought they were great drives and when Dean decided to not continue to support or manufacture them, we felt it was a perfect opportunity for us to take it over. This is a family run business. There is myself, my wife, and my two sons that work for the company. We look forward to working with you, and making the BMax drive a better product and a reliable product for the industry. Looks for us in Performance Boat Magazine and on their web-site. Thanks, John and Michell Pfahl" http://www.bravoshop.net/BMax_Drives.html |
Originally Posted by Panther
(Post 3400164)
PS, my "BMAX" drives do not have water issues and I've supported your product many years now. Any questions feel free to contact me.
I had to make up 6 of my own o-ring grooved washers to seal the upper to the gimbal. Also made a plug to keep the o-ring from collapsing into the shift pin dia. Never leaked since. That was 4 seasons ago. Only weak link for me is the vertical shaft snapping at the pinoin bearing sleeve dia. and the lower gear sets wearing out. Been using Mobil 1 75w-90 with a bottle of Lucas between the two. I change the Gear Lube every season. |
Originally Posted by Panther
(Post 3400164)
Thanks I'll check it out. How long have you been marketing the oil? Dean never mentioned it. How many hours/years of testing have you done?
Any drive that's immersed in water should have an oil that allows it to mix with water IMHO. If you pick up something like a fishing line and tear a prop seal you may not know it until it's too late. PS, my "BMAX" drives do not have water issues and I've supported your product many years now. Any questions feel free to contact me. The base oil has been used in the marine industry for years and we added some new additives to it to make it even better. We are also testing some new oils at this time. We have all the major oils being tested against ours and hope to have the results by the end of June. Heres the deal we are not bound by API or any other standard as to how to make the oil so we can make it fit the application we need. Where as API branded oils have to test within the parameters set for them by API for what ever rating they are trying to meet. |
Originally Posted by Back4More
(Post 3401791)
+1:drink: You can call me too....
I had to make up 6 of my own o-ring grooved washers to seal the upper to the gimbal. Also made a plug to keep the o-ring from collapsing into the shift pin dia. Never leaked since. That was 4 seasons ago. Only weak link for me is the vertical shaft snapping at the pinoin bearing sleeve dia. and the lower gear sets wearing out. Been using Mobil 1 75w-90 with a bottle of Lucas between the two. I change the Gear Lube every season. |
Originally Posted by Back4More
(Post 3401791)
+1:drink: You can call me too....
I had to make up 6 of my own o-ring grooved washers to seal the upper to the gimbal. Also made a plug to keep the o-ring from collapsing into the shift pin dia. Never leaked since. That was 4 seasons ago. Only weak link for me is the vertical shaft snapping at the pinoin bearing sleeve dia. and the lower gear sets wearing out. Been using Mobil 1 75w-90 with a bottle of Lucas between the two. I change the Gear Lube every season. Was this problem with the BMAX lower or the Imco Lower. |
Yep, it's the IMCO lower. I also replaced the caged roller bearing that Dean and IMCO used with the Merc style rollers and sleeve. No more signs of heat on the race. Maybe thats why I have not broken one since. Knock, knock, (wood table) :D
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