We all have our reasons I suppose. For me, I was able to sell my IMCO Extreme SC's and buy BMax drives for only a $4K investment.

I'm running 830hp/tq with roots style blowers and I haven't had many issues with the drives. Even with some of the issues I've had since 2007, I'm still ahead of the cost curve to go to Arnesons and way ahead of the #6 cost curve.

For me it made sense and can't say it would for others. However, if I was making more power I don't think I would have bothered to try this set-up. I would have bought a different boat or did a conversion. :drink:

As for the oil. I'm not blowing up drives using Amsoil now so the extra expense of the mistery oil may not be worth it unless it's proven to work. I think Mr. Gadgets has the right idea with the additives.

If I could have a #6 work, I would have had one by now. Unfortunately, moving my engine forward in the hull is not an option for me. I have entertained the idea of building a custom standoff box to house the transmission in the past, but the question of weight and balance comes to play- and then there's the cost of such conversions. I've read here about people saying the cost is prohibitive, but buy it once, or buy it 10 times before you realize what you should have done- here's the problem with that theory... The question of it working or not is a good one. There aren't many single engine hulls out there that run these types of setups. I don't know that a 6 or an arneson would work any better or worse for me. All I know, is that they would most likely live longer. I haven't read about anybody having an arneson failure, but with the limited amount of structural hardware, I'd hate to be the guy that destroyed one at speed. The conversion is only rated at around 800hp. At least with the bravo stuff out there, I feel comfortable saying that when something breaks- it's not gonna kill me. Please understand- I'm NOT saying anything bad about the arneson, but look at the design, what is there to break. Transmission? Ok, no biggy, shaft/ball assembly- if that breaks, what's to keep the skeg/prop pointed in the direction you were traveling before the break? I envision the event going about the same as if I broke a gimbal ring- and that doesnt appeal to me. I know there is an arneson drive suited to handling this type of power, buy we come again to the point that moving the engine forward in this hull is just not an option. IMO and FWIW, I think the arneson is a fantastic product- do I think it would be faster? Probably. Do I think it would live in most applications? Can't see why not. Do I think it's a worthy investment for most people? Absolutely. Do I see arnesons in my future? Not on this boat

How often are you changing your drive oil?

All American Drive Service in Michigan sells the special mix NEO oil for drives also. That's where I got mine.

?? The rudder fin on an Arneson is nothing like a Gimbal attachment so there is no way that the rudder can twist and point a different direction.

As for breakage, the Arnesons come with a warranty so you do not have to worry about this.

The engine does not go forward

15-20 hrs, 2-3 times a season.

One thing that wasn't mentioned here. Does your new oil mix with water?

Rik- in all fairness to you, how much power can one put ahead of your drive(conversion drive asd8?)? At what power level will you not honor your warranty? If there is going to be a failure in your drive due to too much power, what would it be? Please don't take anything I've said here as an insult to you or your product... I like the concept, and I like what I see of the finished product... I'm just asking questions here. Several companies/people have made some pretty outstanding advances and products within the performance boating community, and in a lot of different areas... I'm not going to bash any of them for their hard work or efforts! I had a problem, and I chose what I deemed to be an affordable solution to it with the b-max drive. So far, it has exceeded my expectations performance wise, and the customer service I have received from the bravo shop has been outstanding.

Yes it does mix with water and for the life of me I don't know why that is on the top of your list. If your drive is taking on water you should fix it not keep changing oil. The Bravo Shop oil will last up to a 100 hrs so no need to spend $ 50-60 a gallon on amsoil + the Lucas additive x 3 changes= 75-80 dollars a service for a Bmax, now x that by 3 = $225-240 a year or $92.00 a year for The Bravo Shop oil.

I will post pic's on The Bravo Shop FB Page of what happens when you mix water with Merc oil and you maybe surprised.

Well you mentioned the ASD8, not the #7M Kit. The ASD8 is rated at a conservative 1500 hp on a heavy big Cat of V hull. Your hull being so small would not put a lot of stress on much. With the ASD8's I have people with over 2,500 hp going through these with no problems so where is the breaking point when they do not break?

Rik, I think he ment to ask about the capacity of the #7M conversion kit. What's the most power that has been put through it in field use? Is the trans the weak link?