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Old 06-23-2011 | 08:44 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by John the Drive Man
Everyone has their opion when it comes to oil.
Especially when they are selling a brand.
No company has done more testing of gear oils than Mercury.
Been associated with them for over 45 some years, I can speak for that. Have never had a drive of any type fail because of oil. It's all on how you set your gears in relation to HP. After over 15 world championships of Drives that I have personally built, I can justify to that. It's the first thing people put the blame to when a drive fails.
John,

Have you ever used or would recommend and additive to the Mercury HP Gear Oil? This would not be for a racing application just something that might make the Gear Oil better.
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Old 06-23-2011 | 09:47 AM
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It all depends on what Brand of oil you are selling, in what is the best. It's all an opinion, period.
Never have I had a drive fail because of oil, if I'm using the right product. Mercury has more test time on oil when it comes to out drives and outboard lowers than anyone in the industry. In all my 45 years with the Mercury Outdrives, have I had a drive failure because of oil. And I have 15 World Titles under my belt. It's not about just oil, it's how the gears and bearings are set according to the HP. Gear setting is the most important. No matter what. But everyone out there tends to always blame the oil first. I guess that's the easy way out.
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Old 06-23-2011 | 01:42 PM
  #133  
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no mater what if you over load a drive gear above what it was designed to do it will loose its boundary lubrication.Pushing the oil to mechanical shear, thinning oil to the point of causing metal to metal=brineling.

Thats why the make larger gears.

Yea im sure some gear lubes have more ep molecules than others.


also look a STP oil treatment,the money they made selling a treatment,advertising/promoting a product thats better than all the rest,theres a new oil company selling something new every month.
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Old 06-23-2011 | 02:54 PM
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slick 50



Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388
no mater what if you over load a drive gear above what it was designed to do it will loose its boundary lubrication.Pushing the oil to mechanical shear, thinning oil to the point of causing metal to metal=brineling.

Thats why the make larger gears.

Yea im sure some gear lubes have more ep molecules than others.


also look a STP oil treatment,the money they made selling a treatment,advertising/promoting a product thats better than all the rest,theres a new oil company selling something new every month.
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Old 06-23-2011 | 03:09 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by racer-x6
slick 50

Prolong
Attached Thumbnails gear lube-31198vb1v1l__sl500_aa300_.jpg  
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Old 06-27-2011 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by John the Drive Man
It all depends on what Brand of oil you are selling, in what is the best. It's all an opinion, period.
Never have I had a drive fail because of oil, if I'm using the right product. Mercury has more test time on oil when it comes to out drives and outboard lowers than anyone in the industry. In all my 45 years with the Mercury Outdrives, have I had a drive failure because of oil. And I have 15 World Titles under my belt. It's not about just oil, it's how the gears and bearings are set according to the HP. Gear setting is the most important. No matter what. But everyone out there tends to always blame the oil first. I guess that's the easy way out.
John so you are saying Merc is setting up the XR drives incorrect from the factory? With 525's eating gear sets at 150-200 hrs now it all makes sense.

John I respect your drive experience but oil additives have changed a lot in the last few years and you should take a closer look at it. Send in a few gear sets to a lab and have them tested and evaluated and see what they say in the main reason for the failures.

Last edited by waconda; 06-27-2011 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 07-02-2011 | 06:30 AM
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I have read this whole thread and am kind of supprised that nobody has tried amsoil severe gear 75/140. I am just in the process of changing my drive oil and just kind of thought that if the 75/90 severe gear works good than the 75/140 should work even better as far as stopping metal to metal contact. The pourabilty seems to be about the same, not much thicker.
Has anyone tried this? Any thoughts?
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Old 07-03-2011 | 09:43 AM
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Well, put in the 75/140 severe gear 8 qts. to 1 qt. lucas and so far very happy with the results. Shifts much softer and smoother in and out of gear. Won't know about gear life until tear down, but I think that this is going to be a very benificial formula.
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Old 07-03-2011 | 10:11 PM
  #139  
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Cant keep comparing #6 dry sumps to bravos..
The drysumps have oil pumps that spray the gears!!
This is the reason you can run a lighter weight oil !!
All other drives run a wet sump with the gears spinning in the oil like a prop!!
The reason you need the heaver viscosity!!
I have run over 1000 HP on #4 drives!! The only oil on the market that would keep the drives alive is amsoil!!!
This was not a guess we blew up drives under 25 hrs and fried gears with just about every oil out there.
Mercury mineral oil was the worst!! AS far as I know Mercusier builds drives and does not have a oil refinery.
Royal Purple is a joke!! Very short term protection and does not like water!!
Swepco and torco were pretty good!!
RedLine was close but a shorter life than others..
You dont need to add anything to Amsoil!! The reason most oil works better with The Lucas additives is it holds more oil on the gears longer.. If you run a higher viscosity than you really need your just robbing horse power!!!
The best upgrade you can do to a high HP on a bravo drive is to install the pump and external cooler system which increases the capacity while keeping the oil from boiling!!!
Just My 2 on 30 yrs of breaking anything that cant be broken!!
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Old 07-04-2011 | 10:38 AM
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Hot Pursuit, which Amsoil you running?
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